Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

While in the hospital getting stitches for using my finger to test the sharpness of a hertel cnc facemill spinning at 3500rpms, I "snagged" several scalple tips from the storage bin to use in my x-acto holder. Talk about sharp.

I use small cutters like what's used in a floral shop. They tend to be double edged like wire snips so I took them to work and sanded one side flat. I could've spent the extra 3or4 $ to get the same thing from a local hobbytown Usa, but I'm kinda cheap sometimes

Hehehe. If I didn't cut myself I wouldn't get to play with all the cool stuff in the exam rooms.........

yeah man, tweezers, and those clamps that look like scissors......I've got a stash of them in my modeling tools box. I got them all for free from the doctors after they stich me up when I cut my self( I'm a machinist/mold maker and scars cover my hands like a fine silk cloth...hehe). I like doctors ...

I soak my parts in simply green, then use a toothbrush(depending on size of part), a green scrubby pad, and a dremel with a soft rotary brush I modified from a baby bottle cleaner. If you can you'll want to "pin" your resin parts together. I use cut pieces of paper clips and a small drill ...

The parts themselves are molded pretty good. Of course they need the usual tlc that resin kits have to have prior to assembly. The resin used is pretty stout stuff, but the release they used is even more stout. I worked for three hours on about half of the parts and got about 70% of the release off....

Ok, I've had the Omega model for about two years now. Today I pulled it out and started the DREADED process of cleaning the mold release off the parts. WHAT THE @$*&!!!! The release CRAP doesn't want to come off!! I soaked the first batch of parts in simple green for over two hours. Then I remov...

I know the glue you're talking about. I've used it to repair wood furniture around the house, but never as an adheisive for styrene. I have thought about it though. The only thing I'd caution you on is that it tends to spread like that liquid foam stuff as it cures. If you use it make sure to use it...

Speaking of future floor wax, I just bought something like that, but wanted to ask if it will work before I use it. It's called Pledge With"Future Shine". The last time I purchased future was when I was in the Marines and it was called Future (no pledge in the name).

Speaking of future floor wax, I just bought something like that, but wanted to ask if it will work before I use it. It's called Pledge With"Future Shine". The last time I purchased future was when I was in the Marines and it was called Future (no pledge in the name).

I went with flat black because the base color is Model Masters Dark gull Grey, and I didn't have any pastels. I just got back from walmart and I purchased a set of charcoal pencils. I read somewhere in here that someone also uses charcoal pencils to stain and weather, so i figured I'd try it.

Well, after much hesitating I mixed a solution of non-acetone nail polish remover and Model Masters Flat Black, and proceeded to exhaust stain my vector thrust ports. They turned out a little too dark, but the shape and angle is good. I'll just chalk it up too experience cause in order to fix it, I'...

Ok I'm sure a topic like this is somewhere in this forum,but I can't find it. I'm building the revell re-reissue viper kit. I building it up into a varient of the Scarlet Viper, but a little different here and there. Since the model is built in sections, I decided to completley finich the forward ha...

Actually I was kinda leaning towards this kit, but I didn't know that I could contact them and get spwecific led colors. I know I want blue for the exhaust cans, white for the internal landing bay, blue for any windows,red for the launch bay(fiber optic for around opening), and green for the landing...

Ok, I just purchased Revell's Republic Star Destroyer kit. I would like to add lighting to it(nothing too intricate, but simple enough to still look cool cause this will be my first time adding lights to a model). I was wondering what would be descent lighting kit for me(a lighting newb) to use with...

I was going to throw them away, but decided to add them to my spares box along with the remains of an unassembled JU-88A4,empty styrene sprues,the thick clear plastic cover from a barbie doll box(donated by my 6 year old daughter),wires,and too much more to add. Yup I've become somewhat of a modelin...

Oh well. It seemed like it would be a good idea. I've already took apart several small LED devices and retrieved three good bulbs. I just need to work on the wiring,shrink connectors,etc.

My wife has taken an interest in my return to modeling. She has given me a whole string(about 50 lights) to use as needed. These are the standard bulbs about 5/8 long with the plastic fitting piece on one end that run off a wall plug in. My question is how hard would it be to use them to light a model? It would seem like a waste to just throw them away. I just started a Darth Vader Tie Fighter, and I'm thinking of trying to light it(at least just the と お思 &#( pit cause I really detailed it and would like to make it easily visible.

When I airbrush the future on,should I dilute it with water or airbrush thinner? would it be too thick to spray it un-diluted? Once again thank you for all the advice you're giving.

What about using the Krylon over the final coat, then airbrushing the future over the entire model after applying the decals,and weathering. I found a can of Testors Dull Coat on the Micro-Mark web site. Would that also work on top of the Krylon. I'd hate to throw away the Krylon cause it's still ne...

I've been searching the forums and can't find the answer I'm looking for. Chances are I've probably seen the answer, but didn't realize it. I just finished a modified starfury model called "Armored Glory". I've submitted it to be posted in the readers gallery, and it should post soon. I us...