Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Usually between 15 and 20.

Are there andy good resource sites or books on the subject that someone could recommend?

Hmm. I've been shooting Tamiya straight, but tried some thinned tonight. I can see the difference. It seems like it doesn't need to be thinned very much.

yet another dumb question:

What is the goal of thinning paints, especially acrylics? I use Tayima almost exclusively and don't thin at all. Am I missing something?

How well does brushing Future work? Do I risk streaking? That might be an option for the areas I want to be careful about. Brush around them.

The "porthole" windows aren't as much of a concern as a little fogging wouldn't be an issue. as long as white light still got through, the dulling might just make it less bright. It's the arboretum, officer's lounge, nacelles, and deflector that would be at issue. Think about it for a sec....

A related question: I've read that dull coats can frost clear parts. I've not had much experiance with many clear parts but there are quite a few on the 350 refit. I applied pure Future over the entire kit with no issues. Would a "flattened" future (with flat base mixed in) affect any clea...

Thanks. Love Sawnny's site.

Also: Duh, Glorfindel posted the ratios a few posts above.

The warning that "the model may turn white if the ratio is off" scares me a little. I think i'll test it out with a 10:1 ratio first.

Lord Darth Beavis wrote:Future with Tamiya flat base, or Microscale flat. I am partial to the Microscale option. It lays down dead flat.

Can you give me an idea of the ratio of one to the other? I want to use future to dull coat my refit, but I'm not sure how much flat base to add.

I've read that you can de-gas the propellant first by inverting the can and spraying until it stops. Once the propellant is gone, you can just puncture the can and pour the paint out.

Not sure if it is true though.

Finally got all the pieces needed. A badger 150, a Pasche compressor and some paints. At first I was a bit disappointed as I was having trouble with the model master Acrylic. No matter what I did it ran. I had it set to 15 psi and no thinner. Tayima seems to work great right out of the bottle. No th...

When airbrushing, do you use masking tape or do you just use a fine tip and are very careful? I can't seem to mask a good line unless it's straight on a perfectly flat surface.

Do you just use masking liquid? Any tips would be appreciated. I hate finding little dribbles or wavy lines.

Second that.

Wow. Math fail. I was searching for something on drill bits and found this post. Sigh.

Ahh, good idea. I tried cotton on the deflector but went a different route. Polyester fill should be better.

Thanks!

I have two large LEDs positioned facing each other in my 350 Refit nacelles. They sit in a little light box lined with foil tape to spread the light out. Now I want to diffuse the light a bit more. Some dullcoat would help a little, but I was thinking of placing some paper, a thin paper towel, over ...

Might be useful to figure out what resistor: http://www.midibox-shop.com/res.html

Hmmm, I've used white glue for fiber but not wiring. I would think it was t strong enough. Ate set in situations where the wire has some tension to it.

I'm installing the TrekModeller light kit in my refit and I'm wondering... Do you use epoxy, or CA to secure the wiring inside? Do you use masking tape? Tape can work in some instances but I'd be afraid it would weaken over time. Thoughts?

I've wired up a star destroyer with fibre but need to some filling to block light and such.

I was thinking of using Aves in some of the open areas but it would have to cover the fibre I installed. Any concerns with covering fibre with aves?

Thanks

I'm still confused so ill risk the dumb question. I used a Tayima Lacquer paint on model and it wouldn't cover after several coats and dimpled in some areas. I figured the parts weren't clean enough so I want to strip and try again. Simple Green didn't do anything. Will easy off work? Do I have to u...

I'm guessing a .26mm drill bit is big enough for .25mm fiber? I assume the holes should be the same size or just slightly larger than the fiber itself.

Ok, went with the one from Micromark... Of course I spent way too much more while I was there

What could be the difference in a Vise to warrant a $100 price tag??


Thanks for the tips.

I bought an inexpensive pin vise set with various bits. The bits seem fine but the handle just ant hold onto the bits. What would be agood pin vise? I see some in the $100 range. I'm mostly doing tiny holes for fiber.

Thanks!

Wow, good timing. Thanks for the reply.

Most of the people in that thread and at Hyperscale are saying they see their LHS restocked. Hopefully my LHS is by tomorrow. I may swing by.

any update on this? My LHS has gotten the primer back but the paint is still in short supply. I had to search around 8 online stores to find the LAST can of Insignia white. Are their good alternatives? I tend to use Tamiya spray cans for my base colors and Model Master or Vallejo for details. I'm su...

So I have a resin model with large flat panels. Some are slightly warped. I have read that you can use a hair dryer to heat the resin and then push on it to reshape it. Would it be prudent to heat the panel and then clamp it to a flat shape or tabletop to help it flatten? Or maybe between two panels...

Do you all use Bruges and actually scrub the models or just let them soak? I had a model that I soaked and did a quick pass with a soft brush but paint wouldn't stick. I had to scrape the pains and scrub it down and it was still a bit hit or miss.

Crow-T: I came to this thread after looking at that same compressor. I'd love to hear about it as well. I have a 2Gal compressor in the Garage but it's as loud as hell and heavy. I would rather have one in the work area that was smaller and quieter.

I've been having issues brushing Tayima over Tayima. I paintged my model in a matte white using a Tayima spray can and it looked great. I did most of my secondary colors as either another spray can (with lots of masking) or using Model Master. Now I have to touch up the original white and the Tayima...

Wouldn't it just be easier to cover it with Sheet Styrene (unless the shape was curved or spherical?)