Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I used it on my hands once....



...just now is the skin on my palms starting to grow back.

I'm partial to Krylon myself.

I usually use krylon flat white myself, misting it on as I go. But yeah, white is notorious for being a royal pain to work with.

Well according to your sig, looks like Trekmodeler found your limit. :P Do you mock me "Mr Delorean"? you know what, now I understand why those kits cost so much - it's probably because suckers like you keeps on paying for them. well enjoy your $300 kit! I'm sure it will look amazing. :ev...

I'll have to look into this: it could prove VERY useful for my SDF-1 Project!

I did not Prime - I've taken to not doing as much priming here on Figure type kits - I did not wash the model - I've never washed a model and I've never had this issue befreo - but this is also the first Moebius kti I've built. Therein lies the rub................................... I always prime ...

For a plastic kit, use warm (not hot or it can warp parts) water and regular dish detergent, in a plastic tub (I don't use the sink; too easy to lose parts down the drain). I usually let it soak in warm soapy water for about 5-10 minutes to make sure it gets all the mold release off, then I rise the...

Idea for you to try, heat and smash: Get some clear plastic from a package like the front panel of a toy package or something. cut out as large a section square as you can. Put the opaque canopy on a wooden dowel, with some clay to hold it, and chuck the dowel in a vice. Now, put the clear plastic y...

On the other hand: if it does strip to the bare plastic, then we have a new way to refurbish old models without the mess of paint solvents!

On another site I frequent, I came across this: http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad302/pengbuzz/front.jpg Called "frogtape", it's supposed to have a special formulation that seals the edges of it or something when it gets wet, so that paint doesn't seep under it. I was wondering if anyon...

One side note: NEVER allow water anywhere near molten lead. I have heard horror stories that water dropped into melted lead can cause it to "pop" and send hot lead all over the place.

Looks good so far. I like what you did witht he bottom of the primary hull. Yeah, I've built so many of the 1/537, towards the end i would just toss the instructions and go from memory. So you can imagine what a dream it was when I built a refit that I needed instructions for! Even though ti's the s...

Round 2 said that the tooling for the 1/537 refit was basically ruined when the paneling was added. If they re-release the 1/537 refit it will most likely be the version with the paneling. It would be too costly to fix it. I would like to see a new tool made, basically a scaled down version of the ...

You know: too bad Round2 hasn't considered releasing a refit in the same scale as the 1/537, but with the 1/350 accuracy.

I have a forthcoming problem to solve and wanted to get some opinions and advice from you guys. I will do my best to explain it - I have to wait until next wednesday to take photos to show what I am talking about. The way that the shuttlebay attaches into the secondary hull, there is a gap between ...

I have used several 'chrome" paints in my time; for ordinary silver, i use Krylon's "chrome" paint, but it does not perfectly replicate chrome. The problem is that most paints cannot replicate chrome due to how they work: flakes of metallic chrome are suspended in the binder, which se...

I prefer using Krylon crystal coat for my finishing. it dries quick and can be re-coated anytime (although later cans say to coat within 20 minutes or something like that). But overall, i have yet to see a model i have clear coated with krylon start yellowing, though i agree if you put too much of a...

On stripping a kit down, i have used easy-off oven cleaner with a great deal of success. It removes paint and decals as well, and goes back to the plastic without damaging it. (although I would be careful around clear plastics such as windows and canopies). In any event, seeing as you have a resin k...

Wow...just plain wow!!!


Don't be surprised if Greg Jein shows up at your house one day!

Hey guys/gals, Anyone know of any good books, online tutorials, sites and such on how to scratch build models that transform? Specifically Veritech-like fighters from Robotech (transform from jet to robot)? I've done a search online with no luck. Thanks! I rebuilt an SDF-1 toy into a replica of the...

deepcore wrote:Hi
Was wondering if swabbing some paint acylic off (that's laying over a coat of Future) with 91% alcohol will also strip off the Future?
Maybe rubbing alcohol instead?
Thanks

Try polishing it off with toothpaste or rubbing compound, it it isn't that much on there.

I'm doing the pearl undercoat for my 1/350 PL Refit. That being said, I am already applying the decals and have found that spraying some dull cote afterwards dulls down the pearl a bit and it looks pretty good; not too pearl or too flat. But use your discretion on this, as everyone else who has spok...