Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Here's mine.

Nothing fancy. Just some OSB, 2x2's, and a range hood. Got <$30 in it total. Got the hood for $20 on eBay (new), but they go for a few bucks at an appliance recycle store.

I use it. Good stuff. Although, I cut the over sized lid brush out of mine. I use throw away brushes of my own.

http://www.micromark.com/RS/SR/Product/82216_R.jpg

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/ ... d_tape.jpg

I use the Vallejo line of varnishes. Matte, Satin, and gloss. They are acrylic based and have never done any damage to my paint or decals.

From what I hear, Tamiya is going through a re-labeling, and a lot of their stuff is unavailable in the US. Not sure if this includes their spray cans or not...

Do like the miniatures painters, many layers building to the color. http://www.coolminiornot.com/233996 http://www.coolminiornot.com/103554 http://www.coolminiornot.com/42876 http://www.coolminiornot.com/177196 http://www.coolminiornot.com/129820 and then there's this: http://www.coolminiornot.com/...

I use the Model Air line as well. Great paints. I haven't tried using them on a large area tho. Mostly just tanks thus far. But they airbrush awesomely. (Is that a word?.... It is now.)

The good thing about weathering over clear coat is that if you make a mistake or are just dissatisfied, you can wipe clean and start over. Personally, I think weathering without a clear coat is just silly. Maybe that's cuz I'm not nearly as talented as others and I make a lot of mistakes....

Seal with Future or another incompatible clear coat. I don't like paints as panel washes - there's a whole thread here on alternatives. I like transparent watercolors, myself. I've had great results with the pastel washes. I also got some clay based washes from Flory Models. They are nice. Easy to ...

Kylwell wrote:Then you haven't tried Aves...

^^this^^

Give it a shot.

Maybe blu tac to one side and dip one side at a a time then? or brush it on?

What is the base of the acryl thinner?

I always seal with future before any wash/weathering just to be safe.

Try some blu-tac on a stick/piece of sprue stuck to the edge of the window and dip them?

I've seen a couple of different variations on this method, but the idea is the same basic principle.

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Obviously, you have to be careful on the removal part depending on the type of paint you use.

My bottle looks exactly like the one pictured there, but doesn't say anything about "clean scent." I did realize the other day that it smells almost exactly like Red Bull.... if that helps.

I've got oodles of sawdust and it doesn't seem to pull the oil out of the concrete like the granules do. As for the kitty litter versus oil wick stuff, I've heard that, but I've never been able to verify it (not that it matters :) ). The trick to the sawdust is patience. It doesn't work as fast as ...

Lt. Z0mBe wrote:....and purchasing some of that fluid clean up granules?

Just get a bag of kitty litter, it's the same thing. Got a local cabinet shop nearby? Sawdust works just as well, and they'll let you have as much as you can haul away.

southwestforests wrote:What is "ghosting"?

They say they can see the difference in color of the aves and the plastic showing through.

starmanmm wrote:Never had that issue... as long as I primed first.

See, that's what I said. Makes me wonder what kind of primer they are using.... so I never try to use it

Sorry if this has been asked earlier in the thread, but I just don't have the time to go through ten pages.

I have heard others say that they have had a problem with the Aves ghosting under primer and paint. Has anyone else had this problem? Or are they doing something wrong?

You could decant it from the spray bottle into a larger jar to reduce mess. Then transfer to your airbrush jar. I have a gravity feed brush, so this is how I have to do it... Yeah, you may lose a little paint in the transfer, but it would make it less messy.

The future becomes your topcoat, unless you want a different finish than you were able to achieve with the future. I have found that I can control the finish I get with Future by how light the coats are. Thin coats = a satin to matte-ish finish... where thicker coats (after initial light coats) = mo...

Haven't done it with paints, (simply cuz I haven't come across the need to) have done it with hairspray for the hairspray weathering technique. Hairspray Technique

Same principle tho. Just gotta be careful about overspray and fumes.

It's called decanting.... many vids out there, just Google it.

Bump one more for Gorilla CA. Picked up a bottle and as soon as I got home, I broke the handle on my favorite coffee mug. :cry: Never fear, Gorilla glue is here. That stuff holds tight. I have never had much luck with getting ceramic to hold with regular super glue. So, I feel confident enough to st...

Yeah, I figured that would be the case. I don't plan on using it, just came across it in reading some stuff and figured some people here would have some experience with it. Thanks for the input guys. I really wish someone would produce a book like the Artists Guide to Materials for modelers. There i...

I currently use Tenax 7R and Plastruct plastic weld for the majority of my gluing. (Plastic kits, obviously) I have been reading a few things about some people recommending Methylethyl Ketone (M.E.K.) as a cheaper alternative to these. I have also read that it is good for "most" plastics. ...

Beaveranger wrote:....I have read through the MSDS for Future....

And I have been through every paint article, website, and parenting opinion forum I can find. The paint is not the issue. I used non toxic, baby safe paint. I just need to seal them up now.

Another concern is whether or not anything I use will harm the paint underneath. Acrylic btw. That's why I was thinking about using Future.

jim w wrote:I believe shellac is used for this kind of thing.

Hmmmm.... I'm reading that it is non-toxic, edible, and used for food glaze. I did not know that. I also did not know that it was a natural product either. Good to know... thx.