Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Primer contains adhesives to bond with the surface and the paint better than plain paint. If it's still tacky it could be a number of reasons. 1: It could be it was too humid when you painted and hasn't dried yet. 2: You put it on way too thick {I do that a lot from spray cans} 3: Did you paint over...

Finished my enterprise.
Not perfect, lots of flaws, but overall I like it a great deal.
AND it's the first lighting project I ever got to work. The others got trashed.

VIDEO - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VniGkFKSjEY
PICS - http://gerry1of1.wordpress.com/star-tre ... rise-1350/

Thanks. I'll check the back of the board.
Appreciate the help.

Same Ship - Different Problem The TOS 350 Enterprise If you are doing the Polar Lights lighting kit The circuit board has a Q and an R light string Q - shuttle bay lights R - rear half of engineering hull & tail landing lights Both light strands work individually when plugged into their sockets ...

I know we've discussed it before, but I built a new paint booth tonight and thought I hadn't seen this topic around. Maybe someone new to this forum could use the information. Paint booths can cost money, but I build mine for under $40 and it really works well. Very well. I did one last year, but I ...

I finally got around to reading the Feb issue of Fine Scale Modeler magazine. It had a litte blurb about painting metal, specifically photoetched bits. Clean the oils off. Apply a coat of Pledge Future floor polish. "It adheres to the metal and gives a good base for the paint" it reads. Ok...

Never considered that it wouldn't work. Now you've got me worried!

I'd suggest you test it on the frame of the photo-etch set if you're in doubt.
Don't risk damaging any pieces you don't have to.

Depending on your scale, I'd either use salt to make chips
or apply Liquid Masking to it before applying the final color,
then peal away afterward.

I recently came acrossed this and thought it was awefully good.
Very releveant to the 'First Model' experience.

Here's the link. Be sure to click on the photo to enlarge it.

http://gerry1of1.files.wordpress.com/20 ... -model.jpg

I'm told at my local hobby store that Tamiya has some kind of carcinogen so the had to take it off the shelves until Tamiya reformulates without that chemical.

Don't know if it's true, but it does explain all of the stock disapearing overnight and impossible to get.

For the Enterprise 350 I used Model Master Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. For larger windows, packing tape on the outside {It's smooth on the sticky side} then I used a clear resin my local train hobby store sells for making water features filled from the inside. slow drying time but very ni...

I'm one of those guys who's a lousy Drafstman. I can't make a draft or a blue print to save my life so I can sympathise with you. My sympathetic advice... balance. Random things are rarely random. There is a balance to them. Not too many in one area, and be sure to repeat it exactly on the other sid...

Clear colors over silver base.
Silver or gloss white... I like silver but white is quite nice.

Many of the Polar Lights models are coming with a choice of traditional water decals or stickers. At least the 1/1000 Enterprise TOS and Klingon D7 do. Has anyone used the stickers on the ships? Has anyone gotten a good result from them? Do they last? I've only used LOGO sticker on the bases of the ...

Airdave wrote: I can't even glue my fingers together!!

Why did you want to glue your fingers together?

Dry Rub Decals... I just stumbled acrossed these pretty puppies while working on my Speeder Bike. http://gerry1of1.wordpress.com/star-wars/speeder-bike/ . I loved these things so much thought I'd pass on the idea. They are marketed for PineCar racers. Remember those? Block of wood you whittled into ...

Like what kind of Marks? I use the tamiya paints on all my builds? Are you Brushing or using an AirBrush. John After gloss coating an acrylic paint I taped off to do some air brush details after painting I removed the tape and the gloss coat came off with the tape. It leaves a definate ridge you ca...

To clarify, I use the future on acrylics and that's it?

Or do I use the futre then do the gloss coat and that'll make it bond strongly?

I think I'll just stop using acrylics.
I like them for easy clean up, but it left marks in my PERFECT bat boat! dammitalltohell!

The last 3 models I've done that used acrylic paints, I've had trouble putting a gloss or dull coat over the paint. I'm using Testers dull coat, gloss coat & Tamiya gloss. the actual coat looks good, but when I've taped off areas for detail painting and then removed the tape, it sometimes lifts ...

s15v8

so how's the 'prise build going?

I used Testors on my Enterprise 350.

The glue even held up when I thew the model against the wall when the lights failed the last time. Some of the plastic broke, but the glue held together beautifully!

I heartily endorse that product.

Matty, I had the same concerns... in hind sight I would do the following.. Don't use the windows. Really, the only ones you need are the BIG ones for the recreation deck and Captains Lounge. Maybe the angled ones that focus light on the neck. If I had to do it again, I'd leave all those small window...

My primer also developed cracks.
But it was on the inside so I just gave it another coat to fill in.

I had put it on way too thick and that's why mine cracked.

Thanks Adam. I had a friend ask about it. I'll pass the link on to him. The ship in those pics looks great

does anyone know of a link or page with photos of Ratheon lighting? Specifically the Enterprise?

brilliantly done!

good to see your responses. I'm sure other guys who've never posted a "My Ship" on you tube are curious where to begin. and the Video Presentation is like the models Base... just give a good presentation of your work. I have fiddled with Windows Movie Maker, but it seems to only save them ...

So, you've got your model done and you want to show it off. You've got a great base, and finish... but how do YOU show it off online? The question here is about video editing software. I'm interested in your preferred program. Or reviews of ones you tried that weren't very easy to work with. Some of...

Rust-Oleum Auto Primer if I need black.

Rust-Oleum plastic primer if I want white or just grey.

Sandable. Takes putty and hot glue well.

I like Tamiya model primer but it's just WAY WAY too expensive. Rust-Oleum is like 5 or 6 bucks a can