The Abbey of Aves
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Not necessary....this time!en'til Zog wrote:Lighting candles now.
Will you require the sacrifice of a (Stief) goat?
Well that was most excellent.
Very impressed.
I think my Aves was becoming a little hard to work with at the end, which was about 2 hours after mixing.
Next time I'll not let it set so long before use.
Being able to clean, soften, thin this putty of the gods with mere water is just worthy of song.
Hallelujah!
He tasks me! He tasks me and I shall have him!
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Butters,
What did you thin your Aves with water or Alcohol and how thin did you make it? There is a point where the putty will loose cohesion (even with their thinner) because it has been thinned too much. In those instances I use the paste and thin that as it is a slightly different formulation and can handle thinning to a super thin liquid.
Also, I have found very few instances where I actually need thinn the putty in order to do fill work etc. In fact I find it much easier to control when mixed regularly. For a seam, for instance, I roll it to slightly wider than the gap then work it in with a sculpting tool. I then go back and smooth with a small flat brush and alcohol. I find this to be a very effective way to fill gaps.
Cheers,
Mark
What did you thin your Aves with water or Alcohol and how thin did you make it? There is a point where the putty will loose cohesion (even with their thinner) because it has been thinned too much. In those instances I use the paste and thin that as it is a slightly different formulation and can handle thinning to a super thin liquid.
Also, I have found very few instances where I actually need thinn the putty in order to do fill work etc. In fact I find it much easier to control when mixed regularly. For a seam, for instance, I roll it to slightly wider than the gap then work it in with a sculpting tool. I then go back and smooth with a small flat brush and alcohol. I find this to be a very effective way to fill gaps.
Cheers,
Mark
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I added some water, but I can't say it thinned it much. It made it slightly easier to mix, but it's still like spreading soft taffy onto my model. I have the paste, and cannot EVER imagine being able to roll it out or cut it into strips. Maybe I have the wrong stuff for that.Mark Yungblut wrote:Butters,
What did you thin your Aves with water or Alcohol and how thin did you make it? There is a point where the putty will loose cohesion (even with their thinner) because it has been thinned too much. In those instances I use the paste and thin that as it is a slightly different formulation and can handle thinning to a super thin liquid.
Also, I have found very few instances where I actually need thinn the putty in order to do fill work etc. In fact I find it much easier to control when mixed regularly. For a seam, for instance, I roll it to slightly wider than the gap then work it in with a sculpting tool. I then go back and smooth with a small flat brush and alcohol. I find this to be a very effective way to fill gaps.
Cheers,
Mark
Aves is just very difficult to work with. Lately I've been using my old tube of Testors putty, because I can put THAT stuff right wher I need it, in the amount needed. The Aves paste has to be gloped onto the general area with a trowel, (because it has the consistanst of warn taffy) and then sanded down.
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I guess I bought the wrong stuff. I have lots of urethane foam that I thought I could coat with the paste, but so far, it's been a nightmare to work with. Dunno if it was the wrong product or if it's too old, but I'm definitly not happy with Aves.k-dog wrote:I use the aves putty for everything now. Even very small gaps. I mix a very small amount and roll it out bit. then i use a knife and cut a little sliver and place it with a toothpick. Once in place I smooth it with the aves solvent and it works great.
I'll keep trying to use it so's not to waste the money, but I'm not happy with Aves paste. At all.
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Okay here is the deal. I never thin with water. Use Alcohol or their thinner.
Putty is more clay like and the Aves Clay IS clay like and even stiffer when mixed up. The normal putty is what most use here, BUT the paste can be mixed and used in the same way as your Testors putty. The big difference is that you can smooth the Aves with alcohol and a sculpting too then finish with the same and a brush. This will significantly cut down sanding if not eliminating the need to do anything but a cursory swipe to get a rough surface for paint.
Cheers,
Mark
Putty is more clay like and the Aves Clay IS clay like and even stiffer when mixed up. The normal putty is what most use here, BUT the paste can be mixed and used in the same way as your Testors putty. The big difference is that you can smooth the Aves with alcohol and a sculpting too then finish with the same and a brush. This will significantly cut down sanding if not eliminating the need to do anything but a cursory swipe to get a rough surface for paint.
Cheers,
Mark
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Hmm at this point I am not sure it will even work properly. I'd try taking some of each out of the package and let it druy out overnight or maybe another day without mixing them see if you can get some of that water out.
-Mark
-Mark
"Tell me and I forget. Teach me and I remember. Involve me and I learn."
- Benjamin Franklin
"I am recalibrating my lack of faith in humanity. I start by reading opinions on message boards…"
- Dogbert
"What is his Comprehension level? Are we talking Human, Squirrel or Anvil?"
- Dilbert
- Benjamin Franklin
"I am recalibrating my lack of faith in humanity. I start by reading opinions on message boards…"
- Dogbert
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- Dilbert
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It should cure fine even if both parts are diluted. It's not an ideal situation, because it doesn't let you vary your dilution though. Mix and try.
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An update, actually the alcohol has made a difference. When mixed, now, it's totally mixable. I have some, spread thin on urethane as a test, right now. I'm just about impressed.Butters wrote:The alcohol hasn't made a big difference. But, Ti, remeber that I have Aves paste, not the Putty, and there lies the bane of my existance. Actually bane number 212 to be exact.
There is a solution to every problem. Sometimes it's just C4.
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ya know... i'm really curious what the other 211 banes of butters exsistence are... but VERY afraid to ask.
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Number 37 is pulblic restroom toiletpaper dispensers that release one. square. of. paper. at. a. time.Arklan wrote:ya know... i'm really curious what the other 211 banes of butters exsistence are... but VERY afraid to ask.
There is a solution to every problem. Sometimes it's just C4.
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I've had the same thing happen. Takes a few years but it'll develop crusties. The non-crusty parts are still good. I used mine 'til the bitter end. Helps to keep it in the fridge or freezer. My only complaint about the crunchies was picking the hard bits out of the mix when I was using it.makalaka wrote:Hey, anyone know the shelf life of this stuff?
I have some I got from SSM around fall of 07' and basically the part A is turning hard like a crust around where it's touching the jar it came in. I should also mention I got the blue variant. The part B is fine though.
thanks.
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You didn't eat them? Heathen!Kylwell wrote:I've had the same thing happen. Takes a few years but it'll develop crusties. The non-crusty parts are still good. I used mine 'til the bitter end. Helps to keep it in the fridge or freezer. My only complaint about the crunchies was picking the hard bits out of the mix when I was using it.makalaka wrote:Hey, anyone know the shelf life of this stuff?
I have some I got from SSM around fall of 07' and basically the part A is turning hard like a crust around where it's touching the jar it came in. I should also mention I got the blue variant. The part B is fine though.
thanks.
Kenny
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I bought the sample pack at Wonderfest in '07, then promptly forgot about it. In the interim I rediscovered the joys of modeling with Sculpy and FIMO, then just as quickly rediscovered the annoyance of hard, crumbly polymer clay that can't be re-baked. Meanwhile, Squadron Green has become less and less cooperative.
Upon tripping over the Aves pack (my cat helps me file things) I ripped it open and gave it a shot.
My first experiment was to fill in the scooped-out ventral shape of a 1/2500 Galaxy. My working troubles were eased. Quickly summoning more of the grey aid, I was able to heal several other models whose woes had confounded me. (Sacred Putty, meet Sacred Scale.)
Silicone clay-working tools are really handy with Aves. I get decent results thinning/cleaning with rubbing alcohol, but my saliva works better. (I've also noticed that about Tamiya paints.) I've used it very sparingly up 'til now, but considering its age I'm going to make the most of it while it lasts.
I ask: Does the moisture acumulating on-surface of the medium grey component indicate anything bad? The darker, blue-grey component has a drier, more crumbly texture but is softer and more maleable before mixing. Mixing isn't affected by the moisture, but if it should be kneaded back into the component I don't want to waste it.
Any way, the Aves stuff is as good as I'd heard. Fie on me for disbelieving, and so on. It's time for me to try modeling critters.
Upon tripping over the Aves pack (my cat helps me file things) I ripped it open and gave it a shot.
My first experiment was to fill in the scooped-out ventral shape of a 1/2500 Galaxy. My working troubles were eased. Quickly summoning more of the grey aid, I was able to heal several other models whose woes had confounded me. (Sacred Putty, meet Sacred Scale.)
Silicone clay-working tools are really handy with Aves. I get decent results thinning/cleaning with rubbing alcohol, but my saliva works better. (I've also noticed that about Tamiya paints.) I've used it very sparingly up 'til now, but considering its age I'm going to make the most of it while it lasts.
I ask: Does the moisture acumulating on-surface of the medium grey component indicate anything bad? The darker, blue-grey component has a drier, more crumbly texture but is softer and more maleable before mixing. Mixing isn't affected by the moisture, but if it should be kneaded back into the component I don't want to waste it.
Any way, the Aves stuff is as good as I'd heard. Fie on me for disbelieving, and so on. It's time for me to try modeling critters.
Science created airplanes and skyscrapers, but it took faith to bring them together.
Trust me. I'm a priest.
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Welcome to the fold, Brother John. No fie upon thee. Thou art beset with a cournocopia of discovery.Jagdson wrote:
I ask: Does the moisture acumulating on-surface of the medium grey component indicate anything bad? The darker, blue-grey component has a drier, more crumbly texture but is softer and more maleable before mixing. Mixing isn't affected by the moisture, but if it should be kneaded back into the component I don't want to waste it.
Any way, the Aves stuff is as good as I'd heard. Fie on me for disbelieving, and so on. It's time for me to try modeling critters.
As for the moisture. I've seen it once or twice, and all I do is, with clean tools scoop it out into my hand, knead it a bit and put it back. Take care you've not been mixing Aves prior to this, or you will have contaminated your entire stockpile.
Noted Aves scholar and 14th century science fiction and aircraft modeler Roger Bacon wrote "it is as if the dew of the universe hath descended upon my Aves. I must endeavour to shout my blessings to the world" when viewing the very same moisture you speak of. It means your bench has been blessed.
Kenny
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So, what's the difference between Aves and Milliput? I mean, they are both a two part compound, are water soluble, and icky when first mixed.
So far I've used both, and they seem to behave much in the same way. Granted, I've used Milliput more and have just started using Aves, so maybe my view will change with time.
So, what's the difference between Aves and Milliput? I mean, they are both a two part compound, are water soluble, and icky when first mixed.
So far I've used both, and they seem to behave much in the same way. Granted, I've used Milliput more and have just started using Aves, so maybe my view will change with time.
The rakishly handsome artist formerly known as Darph Bobo
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Of the two, Milliput's harder to mix properly and it's not as malleable. (I expect there are several grades of the stuff; for clarification, mine came out beige when mixed.) Hardened Mil' requires more effort for sanding/scribing.
I've also had a problem with Milliput pieces warping after a couple of years, though it's entirely possible that was related to the relative difficulty of mixing. Even after what looked to be complete mixing the pieces had unhardened pockets which required carving out and filling with Squadron putty. 'Not ideal.
I've also had a problem with Milliput pieces warping after a couple of years, though it's entirely possible that was related to the relative difficulty of mixing. Even after what looked to be complete mixing the pieces had unhardened pockets which required carving out and filling with Squadron putty. 'Not ideal.
Science created airplanes and skyscrapers, but it took faith to bring them together.
Trust me. I'm a priest.
Trust me. I'm a priest.