Aves woes

[tetsujin]

Yo hey...

So for my Zaku I've been doing more in Aves lately, rather than poly putty - and finding it a bit frustrating...

For instance I made the shoulder part seen here by making a clay form, rolling Aves flat, and laying it on to get a more-or-less uniform thickness... So far so good. But what really seems to suck is when I want to tweak the part - add a little bit of thickness here or there, the new Aves does not stick to the old. Not well enough that I can sand the border away, at any rate...

For this second-state work should I just use poly putty, or what?

[TER-OR]

If the Aves is not too far cured, you can moisten the surfaces and get some adhesion back. At a certain point, it won't be tacky anymore but still pliable, at which point you can engrave details.

Plus, whatever you're using as a lubricant for rolling - starch, talc whatever, will need to be rinsed off. Again, you can use water for this and get that tack back or alcohol wich won't.

[Newbie Doobie]

Yo hey...

So for my Zaku I've been doing more in Aves lately, rather than poly putty - and finding it a bit frustrating...

For instance I made the shoulder part seen here by making a clay form, rolling Aves flat, and laying it on to get a more-or-less uniform thickness... So far so good. But what really seems to suck is when I want to tweak the part - add a little bit of thickness here or there, the new Aves does not stick to the old. Not well enough that I can sand the border away, at any rate...

For this second-state work should I just use poly putty, or what?

If you can't get the aves to stick to itself - try bondo. It sticks to pretty much anything,and dires fast too! The only problem is,that you have to mix it correctly - many people don't know the correct ratio between the hardener,and resin,and it can ruin your project doing this wrong! Or,if your're not wanting to mix messy solvent based chemicals together,then try Elmers' brand wood filler. It dries in fifteen minutes,and can be thinned,or removed with water up to a week after being applied. This way,if you're still not happy with the results,you can easily fix it! This dries super hard after a week,and it can be painted after drying with solvent based paint without worry of incompatibility. Plus,there's no mixing! You can also add paint to Elmers' wood filler to match your model,and hide cracks,gaps,and seams!

[tetsujin]

Yo hey...

So for my Zaku I've been doing more in Aves lately, rather than poly putty - and finding it a bit frustrating...

For instance I made the shoulder part seen here by making a clay form, rolling Aves flat, and laying it on to get a more-or-less uniform thickness... So far so good. But what really seems to suck is when I want to tweak the part - add a little bit of thickness here or there, the new Aves does not stick to the old. Not well enough that I can sand the border away, at any rate...

For this second-state work should I just use poly putty, or what?

If you can't get the aves to stick to itself - try bondo. It sticks to pretty much anything,and dries fast too!

Yeah, poly putty is basically what I'll be turning to if I can't work Aves the way I want to... It seems a lot less well-suited to getting a good result on the first pass (being all goopy and such), but it also seems much better suited to iterative refinement...

[USSARCADIA]

I never have that problem with Magicsculpt. You could try roughing up the surface with some heavy grit sandpaper.

[Kylwell]

I usually will over fill the gap/divot/hole/rough spot, feather the edge with some saftey fluid and let'r dry. Then sand to fit.

I have noticed tho', that if I don't thoroughly clean the surface, Aves dust is one of the best resist for more Aves.