Check out the tips and techniques on the main site
www.starshipmodeler.com
I know there are others, but our local IPMS club web-site also has a listing of helpful techniques
www.ipmstristate.org
Here's a quick synopsis of what I do for every model project I build.
Model Building 101 - 13 Quick and Dirty model building steps
1. Wash parts with mild grease fighting dish soap.
2. While that's drying, read the directions thoroughly.
3. Use an X-Acto knife, or parts nipper to remove the parts from the tree as needed in each step of the directions.
4. Use Tenax or some other liquid plastic solvent cement to put together sub-assemblies. Some modelers find CA or super-glue effective as well. Do NOT use either of these on clear parts (it will craze them). I usually wait until the last possible minute to add clear parts to avoid overspray of paint, then use white glue or Testors Window cement. (Clear parts should be masked until painting and clear coating is complete)
5. Use Squadron green or white putty to fill any gaps or seam lines, and use 400 - 1000 grit sand paper (incrementally) to smooth. Now is also the time to address any panel line issues (fill and sand inaccurate ones, and use a Squadron scribing tool to LIGHTLY scribe new ones. If you mess up, you will need to repeat the fill, sand, scribe steps until you get it right. Use a strip of Dymo label tape as a straight edge)
6. As you complete sub-asemblies, spray with in-expensive $1 spray bomb primer or flat white enamel.
7. I usually paint in sub-assemblies, as it is easier to paint things like interior details while everything is still in parts. My paint of choice is Tamiya, or Gunze, whichever your LHS keeps in stock. (Gunze does offer a wider color selection, and is practically the same as the Tamiya. Thin with denatured alcohol to a "milky" consistency, and spray through your airbrush at about 25 psi. (Lower psi, will allow you to achieve a thinner line, but if you go too low, you will start seeing spattering. You can use Tamiya masking tape to cover areas you do not want to paint, and achieve hard edges and lines. For Star Trek ships, I print a copy of the aztec pattern onto frisket film, cut out using my trusty X-Acto knife, and use this as a painting mask for the pattern. Krylon just released spray cans of some nice "Pearl" colors that work really well with a very light coat.
8. Hand brush any details with un-thinned paint and a 000 size "spotter" brush.
9. Spray with a generous coat of Future floor polish (basically pure acrylic base)
10. Apply decals as directed in the instructions, and brush on a coating of decal set (Microsol or Testors - they both work fine)
11. Apply a second coat of Future to seal the decals, followed by your final clear coat of whatever finish you desire (Testors Dull Coat, Semi-gloss, Wet Look lacquers)
12. Weather with acrylic or oil washes (super thin paint) to simulate grime in crevices, dry brush lighter colors to pick out high points of details, and use the Tamiya Weathering pastels to achieve faded paint, rust streaks, and soot effects. (Pack #4 is my favorite)
13. Put together the sub-assemblies using Tenax or, in known weak joints such as the neck and saucer of the Enterprise Refit, - 5-min. Epoxy.
Lighting needs to be handled during steps #3, #4. This is why it is important to have that planned out and tested before installing in the assembly. You will need to leave enough leads to solder your final connections before final assembly in step #13. Once everything is glued together, it is a total Pain in the
nether regions to find out you have a bad solder joint.
That should get you started. If I left anything out, I'm sure someone on here will jump in with a correction.
Now Go Build Something!