How to remove excess resin from narrow slots?

AlanMintaka · Post by **AlanMintaka** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:07 am

Hi Everyone,
I'm a beginner at resin modeling and new to this forum, so apologies in advance if I screw up the protocol, etiquette, etc.

I tried searching the forums here but couldn't come up with an obvious match for what I'm dealing with.

I have a resin kit for the old 50's style Luna rocket from the movie "Destination Moon". Everything is out of the box - I did no molding or anything like that myself. The fuselage is about 16" long, 2" diameter in its widest section, narrows to a point in the front, and is solid resin. Looks pretty deadly, actually!

Anyway, the fuselage has narrow slits for the rocket fins and two of the longer ones are clogged at one end with resin. It isn't flashing; it's solid with kind of a lumpy top, like some of the stuff squeezed out of the mold into the slot.

Each slot is about 3/8" deep and 1/8" wide. The resin clog is about 1" long at one end and fills the slot nearly to the top.

My novice question: what's the best way to gouge this stuff out of the slot? It seems like a very narrow chisel would do the trick but I have no way of knowing whether or not that's a good idea. Is there a risk of cracking the surrounding material if I go in there prying around with even a small chisel? I doubt this could happen because the fuselage is so thick and solid where the slots are. But I don't know resin.

I have some of those nifty woodworking tools used to do detail work - little blades, channel cutters and chisels. None of them are narrow enough to lie flat in the slots but I can work them in sideways. I tried once and found the resin is really tough to cut with those blades. Feels like I'm trying to cut through rock.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice from the pros around here. Thanks to all for your time,

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:03 am

Welcome to the forums Alan. One of the easiest ways to remove excess resin is with a dremel tool. Cutting into an eighth inch slot, you'd need a pretty small bit, 3/32" or so. Barring that, you could try cutting into it with a razor saw, or an exacto sawblade, or a scroll saw blade chucked in an exacto handle.

AlanMintaka · Post by **AlanMintaka** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 4:50 am

Mr. Badwrench wrote:Welcome to the forums Alan. One of the easiest ways to remove excess resin is with a dremel tool. Cutting into an eighth inch slot, you'd need a pretty small bit, 3/32" or so. Barring that, you could try cutting into it with a razor saw, or an exacto sawblade, or a scroll saw blade chucked in an exacto handle.

Thanks Mr. Badwrench,

Actually I have a dremel tool here. I've been using it to engrave ID marks on my TV and stereo equipment. Naturally I never thought to use it for removing the resin in those slots. Typical of me. Well, if I can't find a bit small enough around here I'll just go out and buy one.

The end of the fuselage has a huge dowel-shaped plug on it which has to come off. The molder probably used that for his air vent when he was filling it. Anyway I could practice with the dremel on that plug until I get it right.

I've noticed this ship along with a model of Rocky Jones' rocketship starting to show up in the various online hobby shops. They're made by "Creature Arts". Have you ever heard of these guys? I tried to find a web page but came up blank.

Thanks again,

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 6:19 am

Welcome to the forum.

I agree with the dremel - but if you have variable speed I suggest you step it down a bit. You'd be surprised how fast that resin will disappear!

Experience is a bitter thing.

Joseph C. Brown · Post by **Joseph C. Brown** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 7:24 am

Always happy to see a new modeler come aboard!

Now, you may already know of the following data, but, if you are indeed new to resin modeling, please, please click on the following link, read it, and believe.

It's all common sense information, but many folks don't think safety precautions are needed with their hobby!

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/health.htm

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 11:24 am

I use a Dremel with a coarse 1/32 inch thick blade for getting the worse out, then switch to a smaller carving bit to get out the rest and use a sharp hobby knife to freshen up the corners (if need be).

AlanMintaka · Post by **AlanMintaka** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:34 am

Joseph C. Brown wrote: Always happy to see a new modeler come aboard!
Now, you may already know of the following data, but, if you are indeed new to resin modeling, please, please click on the following link, read it, and believe.
It's all common sense information, but many folks don't think safety precautions are needed with their hobby!
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/health.htm

Hi Joseph,
Thanks for that link. When I first got the model a few days ago I experimented with a little light sanding on the fuselage. After only a few minutes I noticed a film of dust all over my hands. I didn't have a good feeling about that so I put everything away and washed my hands. When I get back to work I'll wear a painter's mask. I assume this is adequate?

The article mentions dremels and that they aren't recommended because of all the dust they raise. They do seem to be the tools of choice in this thread, however. Are dremels safe if all the precautions in that article are taken, i.e. work in dedicated area with ventilation, mask, safety glasses, washing when done, etc? I'd be doing everything in my basement, which is unfinished and well away from any food prep areas or anything like that.

Thanks again,

Rogviler · Post by **Rogviler** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:48 am

I just read that linked page...

What kind of psycho licks their brushes?? Even if it was all water-based paint, that's akin to eating Play-Doh. And for other paints, why not just drink gasoline?

Good info though. Never hurts to be careful.

-Rog

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:03 am

They'd probably freak @ the amount of resin I removed from my Falke & King Krote. Did the majority of the motor work in my vent booth. Clogged up 2 filters doing the Falke.

Yes, a fair chunks of the stuff we play with is dangerous. Some common sense and basic precautions will take care of 99% of things. That other 1%, well that's what the Docs are for.

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 7:53 am

When removing large amounts of resin with a moto-tool I've found that it's easier to find a way to control the dust before you start vs. having to clean up the snowstorm after the fact.

What I do is clamp the hose of my shop vac to the edge of my workbench and work near it, that way the dust is immediately sucked into the hose.

Ken

Forgot to add: licking a paintbrush after cleaning it was the accepted way to reform the tip, art students were taught this was the right way to do it up until 10-15 years ago, maybe sooner depending on the instructor.

srspicer · Post by **srspicer** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:32 pm

Yup,

Licking the paint brush is the best way to keep the shape, natural brushes only. That technique is not as effective on plastic bristles. The brush is clean, of course! I use this technique on all of my fine brushes. You actually slightly spin it like a lolly pop while pulling it from between you lips.

Scott

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:40 am

I have a question. How thick are the wings that need to be attached to the fuse? is the whole wing designed to fit in the slot or is there a peg on the wing?

Also folks take it from an old artist that still has 20 year old W&N Series 7 brushes. This after every paint session and leave some in after cleaning.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/maste ... preserver/

Cheers,

Mark