Need sugestions for a low pressure airbrush

Butters · Post by **Butters** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:28 am

The subject says it all. I have a cheap, low pressure compressor (20-30psi) and I'm looking for a good airbrush that will work well with low pressure.

Keep it simple and use small words because I don't know a lot 'bout airbrushes. I've been making do with Harbor Frieght airbrushes, but I have just enough credit at the Train store to get a decent AB, but not a new compessor.

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 9:08 am

The best airbrush for that compressor would be... Any one you can afford.

Most painting is down at lower pressures anyways. The compressor will meet ALL of your airbrushing needs. I run mine (when I have time to drag it out) at 12-15psi. With airbrushes, more isn't alway better. But I'm no expert. I'm sure one will chime in.

USSARCADIA · Post by **USSARCADIA** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:02 am

I run my Paasche at 20-25psi so that should be fine. It also depends on what paint your spraying. I only use Tamiya acrylics.

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:18 am

Hi Butters,

Any good internal mix airbrush should work at around 15 psi. I usually use 13-15 psi with my Iwata Eclipse. Generally, thicker paint and longer distances between the airbrush and the model require higher pressure.

Mike

The Mad Klingon · Post by **The Mad Klingon** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:37 am

I like my Iwata Eclipe HP-BCS. Works well at around 15psi and with the .35 needle/nozzel you get a good fine line.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Apr 11, 2009 11:49 am

My Iwata Eclipse runs between 12 & 20 psi which isn't bad for a suction feed. For lower pressures go with a gravity fed a/b.

IIRC Micheal Whelen runs his brush @ some 45 psi which is insanely high pressures for an airbrush.

Butters · Post by **Butters** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:01 am

Thanks, all. I'm leaning towards Paasche, but we'll see. I, too, mainly use Tamiya Acrylic but will use what's available, when I have to. I've been able to go on company websites and find all kinds of details about particular AB's but haven't found much in regards to what is acceptable pressure. At 20-30 psi, it seems that my compressor is good, so, back to comparing.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:54 am

Don't
Buy
A
Paasche

Yes, they cost a bit more but with an Iwata you spend more time painting than cleaning.

Butters · Post by **Butters** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 2:04 am

Kylwell wrote:Don't
Buy
A
Paasche

Yes, they cost a bit more but with an Iwata you spend more time painting than cleaning.

Why? Other than cleaning, that is? Which Iwata would you recommend?

USSARCADIA · Post by **USSARCADIA** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:54 am

I don't spend any more time cleaning my Paasche than my friend who has an Iwata. Never had any problems with my VL, and picked it up at a hobby shop fairly reasonably. I've taken his Iwata apart to help him clean it and actually found it a bit trickier than the VL.

Here's a good site to read up on things:
http://www.howtoairbrush.com/

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:52 am

Butters wrote:
Kylwell wrote:Don't
Buy
A
Paasche

Yes, they cost a bit more but with an Iwata you spend more time painting than cleaning.
Why? Other than cleaning, that is? Which Iwata would you recommend?

I spent a little over $200 in parts the 4 or 5 years I had my Paasche. Steel coated brass needles bend much easier than spring steel. Had to replace the body after using lacquers which killed the o rings. Iwata uses teflon seals.

Get an Eclipse with a .35 tip, good for most of what you'll want to do. Later either move up to a .25 gravity fed or just get a .25 needle & tip for your older brush. Talk to Tom Grossman here on the site, he'll give you sucha deal.

Oh, and my other reason for loving Iwatas... We do Make & Takes several times a year, running 30+ kids through. Kids get to build a kit then airbrush it using, you guessed it, Iwata brushes. The abuse I've seen these things take is stunning and they just keep plugging along. Even if one does start to gum up a bit, pop the needle out & wipe it down, clear the guck off the nozzle and bang it's working again. In my 4 years of working M&T (and 6 hour builds and several Iron Modelers) I've only seen one Iwata taken out of action for more than 5 minutes.

Romulan Spy · Post by **Romulan Spy** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:21 pm

Have a look at Badger's 100G series. Get one with a fine tip and you can do nearly anything with it. The 200G is a single-action version. And they are very affordable; they usually run 50 to 70 dollars, depending on where you get it from.

JWattsJr · Post by **JWattsJr** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:33 pm

If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, this week's coupon is for 40% one item at regular price.

Jeff

Rogviler · Post by **Rogviler** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 1:36 pm

USSARCADIA wrote:Here's a good site to read up on things:
http://www.howtoairbrush.com/

Some great tips, just don't take it as a good site to learn how to spell or use punctuation...

I would put a vote for Badger in as well. I don't know about other brands, but Badger still makes parts for models made decades ago and I've never heard anything bad about them.

Although I've recently acquired an affinity for vintage Aerographs. But you're getting into some money there because people like to collect them like they're stamps.

-Rog

psytce · Post by **psytce** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 2:15 pm

The air pressures you are getting (20 - 30 psi) can be used for almost all airbrushes and paints, so that is the good news. Now as far as the airbrushes go the best would be the Iwatas, I personally would recommend the HP-C (or whatever the equivalent is today). The only thing is the cost of the Iwatas, they can be very expensive.
If you can't afford the Iwatas I would suggest the Paasche VL or H, they are not as good as the Iwatas, but I have used the in the past with good results, especially with acrylics.
I would be very careful using enamels and lacquers with the Paasches, you have to clean them twice after using these paints, once to get the enamel & lacquer out (with solvents) and then again to get the solvents out. If you do this you should not have too many problems with the insides of the Airbrush.

I hope this helps ……

Tommy

Butters · Post by **Butters** » Sun Apr 12, 2009 11:31 pm

well, I don't use too much in the way of laquers or enamels, so it's mostly acrylic for me. No hobby lobby around here, but I do have a credit at a local train store who'll order just about anything I want. For Christmas and Birthday I just told everone to buy me a gift certificate at the train store!