Masking Tape Trouble

Gauge · Post by **Gauge** » Sun May 10, 2009 1:23 am

Hey
I seem to be running into the same problem over and over. No matter what tape I use ( blue. purple, white ) I get "seepage" under the tape. It seems to happen no matter what paint I use. I press it tight with my fingers AND dental tools and more often than not it still happens. Any opinions on what I may be doing wrong?

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Sun May 10, 2009 8:19 am

Are you cutting a clean edge on the tape prior to application?

I never use the factory edge due to it being banged up and contaminated with dust and whatnot.

Are you spraying or brushing the paint on?

In either case never apply paint towards the tape.

Ken

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun May 10, 2009 11:42 am

Just use Tamiya masking tape. Makes a world of difference.

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Sun May 10, 2009 1:37 pm

I find the Tamiya tape to be too expensive for my tastes, I've used hardware store masking tape for years and the only time I have seepage problems is when I forget to burnish the edge down.

No matter what tape you use, the key point is not to put too much paint on at the edge of the tape.

Ken

Joseph Osborn · Post by **Joseph Osborn** » Sun May 10, 2009 1:43 pm

Thin paint, if sprayed (or brushed) too heavily at the edge of the tape, will get sucked into the microscopic gaps by capillary action. The old timer's method for preventing this is to spray a clear gloss against the edge of the tape after it's been put down-- in theory, the clear will fill the tiny fissures and prevent the other color from seeping under the tape. Ken's tips for cutting a new edge and painting away from edge are S.O.P. for masking tape, too.

If you have an auto paint supply store nearby, you can usually find 3M fineline tape which is much better than hardware store tape.

JadedMonk · Post by **JadedMonk** » Sun May 10, 2009 3:26 pm

One should also check out the relatively new Frog Tape. A green tape now available at any half decent hardware store.

There is an additional compound in the adhesive that will expand to fill those minute fissures that cause the capillary action Joseph Osborn mentioned.

A little pricey compared to the blue painter's tape, but apparently idiot proof.

Cheers,

JM

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun May 10, 2009 3:30 pm

I've also heard really good things about Jammydog.

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Mon May 11, 2009 1:38 am

Joseph Osborn wrote:Thin paint, if sprayed (or brushed) too heavily at the edge of the tape, will get sucked into the microscopic gaps by capillary action. The old timer's method for preventing this is to spray a clear gloss against the edge of the tape after it's been put down-- in theory, the clear will fill the tiny fissures and prevent the other color from seeping under the tape. Ken's tips for cutting a new edge and painting away from edge are S.O.P. for masking tape, too.

If you have an auto paint supply store nearby, you can usually find 3M fineline tape which is much better than hardware store tape.

A trick used by car customisers is to run a brand-new scalpel blade along the edge of the tape once you've placed it. Use the lightest of pressure (almost none at all) to just score the surface. This gives a really nice sharp line and almost no bleed at all.

USSARCADIA · Post by **USSARCADIA** » Mon May 11, 2009 2:19 pm

I'm in the middle of masking a Saber class for aztec, paneling, etc. I tried the Frog tape for the first time and was less than impressed. I swiftly went back to my Tamiya 10mm roll. Can't beat it. Used the Frog tape for fill-in maksing after the Tamiya.

Callandor · Post by **Callandor** » Mon May 11, 2009 3:07 pm

I use scotch tape and have never had issues except on really irregular surfaces. Since scotch tape is semi-transparent, it is pretty easy to telll if you have it pressed dowwn all the way. the only downsides that I have discovered are that it can be difficult to get a hold of an edge to pull it off and on rare occasions it has left a bit of residue if I have left it on for several days at a time.

Joseph Osborn · Post by **Joseph Osborn** » Mon May 11, 2009 3:27 pm

USSARCADIA wrote:I'm in the middle of masking a Saber class for aztec, paneling, etc. I tried the Frog tape for the first time and was less than impressed. I swiftly went back to my Tamiya 10mm roll. Can't beat it. Used the Frog tape for fill-in maksing after the Tamiya.

I looked into the Frog Tape after it was mentioned and it seems to need quite a bit of moisture and is specifically meant for use with latex house paint. I wonder if a quick spray with clear water from the airbrush would activate the edge and seal it?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon May 11, 2009 3:30 pm

Joseph Osborn wrote:
USSARCADIA wrote:I'm in the middle of masking a Saber class for aztec, paneling, etc. I tried the Frog tape for the first time and was less than impressed. I swiftly went back to my Tamiya 10mm roll. Can't beat it. Used the Frog tape for fill-in maksing after the Tamiya.
I looked into the Frog Tape after it was mentioned and it seems to need quite a bit of moisture and is specifically meant for use with latex house paint. I wonder if a quick spray with clear water from the airbrush would activate the edge and seal it?

As a note, latex house paint contains no latex and is an acrylic paint.

PetarB · Post by **PetarB** » Mon May 11, 2009 4:18 pm

Now that's logical

Always on the look out for a Tamiya tape replacement. I love the stuff but its quite expensive where I live...

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Mon May 11, 2009 9:01 pm

I want to second the burnish and Tamiya recommendations.

Burnish, burnish, burnish. Yes, you can use the cheap stuff a lot of the time. Where the Tamiya stuff takes the gold, in my experience, is when you need to do complex schemes. Tamiya is far, far less likely to lift underlying layers of paint.

Finally, if you can, get you some Castin' Craft liquid latex mold builder. I use it as a liquid masking agent in really weird areas. I don't use it over Acrylics, though, as it tends to fog them.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Dukat, S.G. · Post by **Dukat, S.G.** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 4:31 pm

Gents,

How long do you usually wait before you lift masking tape if you're using enamels? Also, is a higher psi or lower better for masked-off areas?

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 4:53 pm

As I stated over in that "Round 2 Enterprise C vs. Ertl Enterprise C 1/1400 scale" thread...

To stop the paint from bleeding under the tape... After masking is all done, lay down a mist coat of clear. This will seal the edge of the tape to the surface, and the next layer of paint won't bleed under.

suwalski wrote:Interesting idea. I will have to try this technique some time. Just a mist will do that?

Just a little. You don't need a full wet coat, but enough to seal the edge of the tape. You may want to grab an old kit to play with this idea. Then you can check out different amounts of clear to see what works. If you are dealing with gloss finishes, use clear gloss, and of course, if a matt finish, use a matt clear.

riplikash · Post by **riplikash** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:07 pm

I can't help but think the paint is too thick, or the brush is too laden. As for my painting technique, I have never had, nor can I even imagine, seepage happening, because I'm so much laying down a layer of liquid as a thin layer of pigment. I have more of a mini painting background, and I think scale models are more forgiving of thick paint/layers, so maybe the thin paint layering habit isn't as important.

For the edges try really thinning the paint, and wiping the majority off the brush, and painting in several layers (3-5) instead of trying to get it done in just one.

If you're using an airbrush, the same advice applies. It should take 2-3 very thin coats, and each should dry within seconds.

Scott Hasty · Post by **Scott Hasty** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:18 pm

I use Scotch 2080 (blue tape with an orange label inside the roll). I lightly burnish with a finger and shoot. I do get better results airbrushing rather than rattle can painting.

Every line and number on this was painted using Scotch 2080...