mightymax wrote: I have a touch and flow and another bottle type applicator. My problem with the TnFlow is it is long and gangly and there are times I have lost control of it and the tool goes places I did not want it to. Couple that with the fact that if you pick up a TnFlow the glue forms a globule at the tip. This means as soon as I touch the seam I feel I have to much glue!
Also when my TnFlow runs dry I sometimes have a problem getting it to refill with glue.
You can`t imagine how happy I am to read this - I have exactly the same problems with my one, but I thought I did something wrong with it. The instructions are saying "if it drips it is too full", but it drips even with just a few millimeters of glue visible in the glass shaft...
If it were me, yeah...I also use Microscale's non-toxic Micro Weld for a lot of things. It's about the only non-toxic cement I've found that actually works. It melts the styrene just as well as some of the other nasty stuff--it does take a little longer to setup though.
Dan
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Another adhesive question (and thanks for the first responses): What would be the best for connecting styrene to wood without warping or damaging either?
An epoxy is your best bet. I would use a longer-setting one, if you can. Smooth it over the wood and put the styrene on. You'll need to figure out a way to clamp it down - easy if it's flat. Not so easy if it's curved.
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I have never used Ambroid's ProWeld, but will need it for my next project which is ACRYLIC Sounds like this stuff is good for just about everything.
Bert
BERT
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
I'm absolutely in love with Tamiya's Extra Thin (the one with the green cap). Other than the fact that it makes my brains run out of my ears, it is good stuff!
Oh, and I use the little brush that comes in the bottle.
I used to love Ambroid Pro-Weld, but I haven't seen that stuff in ages. Tenax is a sort-of also-ran, at least compared to the Tamiya cement.
What is Plastic Magic? Sounds spiffy!
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Methyl-Ethyl-Keytone.
As previously stated, very nasty stuff. It is used to disolve plastics and foam. I have used it in the past for elector-forming. Once you have grown metal around an object, you introduce MEK into the form to disolve the foam or plastic. It turns everything into a 'soupy' mess.
The 'Keytone' is what makes it particularly nasty. Keytones are carcinogenic, Cancer-Causing agents!!. Only use this stuff if you are a professional and know what you are doing. ( PLEASE)
I preferr to use Rez-N-Bond. I buy it by the gallon. It welds everything just fine. I use a fine camel hair brush to apply it. I like the drafting tool idea, will have to try it.
Just my two cents.
Mr. Badwrench wrote:I use Ambroid ProWeld almost exclusively. I love that hot, poisonous stuff.
I haven't opened my pro-weld yet but see it has a brush applicator. Mr Badwrench, how does the supplied brush work for capillary action for hull haves ? do they sell different tips for that bottle for small areas ?
BERT
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
I don't use the brush at all. I put an eye-dropper full in a little squeeze bottle with a hypodermic needle applicator. It lets me put the cement exactly where I want, one tiny drop at a time.
I've got an almost-empty bottle of Plastruct Pro-weld cement which has thickened to the point where it won't flow into joints. What can I put in it to thin it out? Acetone?
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MillenniumFalsehood wrote:I've got an almost-empty bottle of Plastruct Pro-weld cement which has thickened to the point where it won't flow into joints. What can I put in it to thin it out? Acetone?
I think you are talking about paint thinner, more specificaly cellulose thinner or nitro-thinner as it is called sometimes.
That stuff usualy contains toluene and it isn't very save if you use it often, toluene causes braindamage if you breath in to much.
It works ok to meld styrene together though and it's very cheap.
I use Revell Contacta Professional.
It comes in a handy squeeze bottle with a metal syringe containing 25 grams of the waterthin cement.
Easy to clean if you accidently leave the cap of without clearing the syringe first and it get's blocked.
I just pull out the metal tube and hold it over the cooking burner for a minute it burns out al the cement, then hold it under the cold water tap.
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Years ago (in the 80's) my dad used to work at a sign shop. He would get me this very thin glue they would use for the plastics of signs. It had a needle applicator and would set up almost as fast if not faster then super glue. Anyone know what this may be? And where to get it?
It's certainly a solvent of some sort and can depend a lot on the plastic being cemented. Most of these solvents are water-clear and thin as water. The one I use most is MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Others are acetone, ethyl acetate, butanone or Methylene Chloride and many plastic cements have at least one of these as constituents.
The Weld-on stuff is very good, but to justify the cost, you generally have to buy in pint or greater quantities. Less than that you might as weel get MEK, Tenax Ambroid or any one of the others mentioned so far.
As for needle applicators, Weld-on do sell these separately here and a google for "Needle Applicators" will turn up hundreds of results.
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Sounds like this stuff is good for just about everything.
