Hi All,
Just wondering if anyone has a method of avoiding
the many needed coats when painting reds and
yellows?
Can you tint primers like is done with house paints?
Cheers,
AK
Painting Reds or Yellows
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
-
- Posts: 93
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:09 pm
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
- Lt. Z0mBe
- Posts: 7311
- Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 1:46 pm
- Location: Balltown Kentucky, by God!
- Contact:
I don't think you really want to tint your primer. I know it is a pain in the rear painting reds and yellows, but the best advice I can offer you is to go with a very light primer.
For yellow, use a white primer. For red, use a very light grey primer. I shoot a lot of very light coats until it's just right. You'll see a transition in front of your eyes as it goes from a deep pink to a pale red. You could want the pinks if you're preshading, though. Keep that in mind.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
For yellow, use a white primer. For red, use a very light grey primer. I shoot a lot of very light coats until it's just right. You'll see a transition in front of your eyes as it goes from a deep pink to a pale red. You could want the pinks if you're preshading, though. Keep that in mind.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
- Romulan Spy
- Posts: 1897
- Joined: Thu May 06, 2004 4:44 pm
- Location: Grand Duchy of Robonia
I prime with white enamel. I build lots of WWII Luftwaffe aircraft, so I frequently deal with light, bright colors, especially pale blues, and reds and yellows. Even when a kit fits perfectly and doesn't require filler or excessive sanding, I've found that a bright white coat of Floquil Reefer White helps painting go a lot easier.
On this Bf-109 I began painting with white; I then masked the tail band, then painted the blue. The yellow and red areas came out nice and bright with only a couple of thin airbrushed coats.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/ ... C_0134.jpg
On this Mustang, I painted the invasion stripes and the yellow/red checkerboard nose. Again, a bright undercoat of Reefer White made the bright colors "pop".
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/ ... C_0155.jpg
I recommend Floquil enamel, but any flat white enamel would do the trick.
On this Bf-109 I began painting with white; I then masked the tail band, then painted the blue. The yellow and red areas came out nice and bright with only a couple of thin airbrushed coats.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/ ... C_0134.jpg
On this Mustang, I painted the invasion stripes and the yellow/red checkerboard nose. Again, a bright undercoat of Reefer White made the bright colors "pop".
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/ ... C_0155.jpg
I recommend Floquil enamel, but any flat white enamel would do the trick.
-
- Posts: 93
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:09 pm
- Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
-
- Posts: 3924
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 11:05 am
- Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Ditto - professional car painters use yellow under red. Some use black under yellow for an intense yellow. However, these won't get around the number of coats you have to use - it just intensifies the final finish colour.Kylwell wrote:Or if you want a truly eye searing red, go with a yellow base coat.
I've never had much of a coverage issue a/b Tamiya or Gunze reds or yellows, provided the base if light enough.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson