Scribing circular lines

crowe-t · Post by **crowe-t** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 4:26 pm

I'm looking for a way to scribe the 3 circular lines in the bottom of an AMT 18" Enterprise kit to make it more closely resemble the studio model.

These links have pictures of the 3 circular lines on the bottom saucer of the studio model for reference:

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa23 ... /ent39.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa23 ... /ent10.jpg

photoguy · Post by **photoguy** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:46 pm

I've used architect's compass' with two pin tips for this. Make several light passes to get a groove going, and then you can use your favorite scribing tool to deepen and widen the gap as needed.

crowe-t · Post by **crowe-t** » Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:48 pm

photoguy wrote:I've used architect's compass' with two pin tips for this. Make several light passes to get a groove going, and then you can use your favorite scribing tool to deepen and widen the gap as needed.

Thanks for the advice!

Where can I get an architect's compass?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:15 am

crowe-t wrote:
photoguy wrote:I've used architect's compass' with two pin tips for this. Make several light passes to get a groove going, and then you can use your favorite scribing tool to deepen and widen the gap as needed.
Thanks for the advice!

Where can I get an architect's compass?

Ask and ye shall receive

That link should get you started. You can also use what I use for small to medium size circles (Erin showed me this). It's the Olfa circle cutter. Just make a few passes backwards such that the blade just scores the surface. Backwards is also the best way to cut, by the way. The difference is you use more passes.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Lichtbringer · Post by **Lichtbringer** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 4:31 am

Lt. Z0mBe wrote: It's the Olfa circle cutter. Just make a few passes backwards such that the blade just scores the surface. Backwards is also the best way to cut, by the way. The difference is you use more passes.

I second that. It´s just that i prefer to go first 1-2 light passes with the sharp side - to get a fine first groove to lead the blade when i start the passes backwards.

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:01 am

I agree with the above, but the I find the Olfa circle cuttter a bit chunky and cumbersome to use. Whether you use an achitects pair of compasses (as a draughstman in the UK we used to call them dividers, actually) or a specialised circle cutter, the important thing is not to use too much pressure. Aparts from making it harder to control, excessive pressure will enlarge the centre pivot and things will eventually not be circular.

Dr. Snuts, M.D. · Post by **Dr. Snuts, M.D.** » Mon Aug 03, 2009 8:33 am

I recently picked up a compass like that from Home Depot for less than $5. Works great.

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:26 pm

I like to mark lines like that in pen first (or pencil) to make SURE everything is right. Then switch to the needle and scribe over your lines, which give you instant verification you're OK. A compass is a tool every modeler should have - dividers of different types are also exceptionally useful.

TREKKRIFFIC · Post by **TREKKRIFFIC** » Wed Aug 05, 2009 3:06 pm

Don't know what I'd do without my dividers. One of the most useful tolols in my collection.