Hi Guys, the equiptment I ordered in my previous post has finally arrived. So Im kinda ready to take the plunge, and ruin some models
As I have no experience airbrushing, I plan to take my assembled ERTL ENT-D apart and use it as a test bed for developing the techniques. I plan on drilling out the windows, applying a light block layer inside, then using the epoxy to reform the windows which have to be lit. All that seems straight foreward, however from reading comments in various threads, its the basics of exterior painting which I need help on.
Basically I understand that a base coat is first applied. But, at a fundamamental level, can anyone advise on how they procede from that point on. I know everyones technique is different, but Im a total beginner to this and would greatly appreciate some direction. It will be all Star Trek models for the moment.
So - base coat/top coat/gloss coat? Base coat/mid coat/top coat/gloss?? I really am a learner here guys...
"You thought you got lucky...but it turns out the whole time you had your hand in warm compost" - Dave Lister, circa 3 Million years from now.
As a beginner, I'd suggest you get familiar with your brush BEFORE you start working with plastic. Also, Lighting and airbrushing are two very different skill sets, and I'd take learning them one at a time if I were you. Get comfortable with the airbrush, and then tackle lighting. Just a suggestion.
Get some illustration board, some Tamiya masking tape, and the paint you will be using on the models (I'd suggest Tamiya paints and thinners) and start practicing to get yourself used to the feel of the brush. Start with some straight lines, producing narrower and narrower lines concentrating on making them smooth and as straight as possible. Keep working until you can produce a controlled line of an even opacity and thickness, and then start with making gradations in opacity while keeping the thickness the same. With a 03 needle, you should be able to get a smooth, controlled line about the width of a pencil stroke. As you get more comfortable, move on to some figure '8's. Same thing, smoother, narrower, even lines.
Once you move onto the models, I start with a light colored primer coat (usually out of a rattle can) and then start working the airbrush
1. Pre-shade all of the recessed areas and deflector grid with black
2. Primary hull color - general coverage, building up light layers of paint
3. highlight color - either white, or a lightened hull color - applied to high points and centers of panels to increase contrast between shadow and highlight areas
4. Aztecing - if you're doing it, now is the time. Frisket film and tape will be your friend. Keep it translucent and SUBTLE!
5. Gloss clear - overall
6. Decals
7. Gloss clear decal sealer
8. Clear finish - for Trek, I usually use a semi-gloss or satin clear coat
Sorry for the long post, but there is a LOT involved (this is the short short list) if you have questions, or need help, just ask. That's what we're here for!
Exactly the reason I love this forum, honest and excellent advice - thank you very much! Greatly appreciated. I guess from here, my next step is to start sourcing supplies...Tamiya in Ireland...possibly a tall order, Ill update as soon as I find a supplier (more likely in the UK). Again, thank you!
"You thought you got lucky...but it turns out the whole time you had your hand in warm compost" - Dave Lister, circa 3 Million years from now.
I am in exactly the same position as u and am a total noob with a airbrush and i was a bit apprehensive about starting. Ive only had some brief use but understand that practice definately makes perfect.
I am also making a ent d and have rubbed down all the detail and brought a aztec mask kit and am pretty nervous about starting all the painting. I personally had trouble deciding then finding the best colours for the job. Dont know if u have any Model Base shops in ireland but they sell tamiya arylics if they are what your going for.
I don't preshade, so I start with the lightest overall color first, then spray the other colors going from lightest to darkest.
Once you start laying on the other colors, it's important to keep the layers as thin as possible so you don't obscure the detail.
Once you have everything painted to your satisfaction, apply one or more clear gloss coats prior to decaling, assuming you used flat paints.
For practicing, use an old junk model or get some styrene sheet, here in the States a cheap source of styrene are the "For Sale/Keep Out/etc." signs available at hardware stores.
If you learn to spray on paper it can be hard to move to plastic since paper will soak up paint.
enter, i have rubbed down my enterprise d to try and make it look as close to the filming model as poss. I have also got extra bits from dlm parts in the US including a more detailed bridge module, a saucer deflector insert and coloured bussard and engine parts which hopefully will all look alot better than the standard parts. If you plan to light your kit if you aint already heard of them i would recommend these bits, especially the engine bits.
Also if you are having trouble with finding paints i use this site which has alot of tamiya and other paints and pretty much anything else. Never had any probs with them and fast delivery. Good luck and hope this helps.
Ken some good points there, I appreciate the input.
Dan - exactly what I was looking for - bookmarked. And I guess the aftermarket, pre-coloured parts are exactly whats needed as Ill be lighting. Thank you again
"You thought you got lucky...but it turns out the whole time you had your hand in warm compost" - Dave Lister, circa 3 Million years from now.
