Using Clear epoxy resin?

[DeltaVee]

I have no idea what I'm talking about, but I'm looking for an alternative to using Crystal Clear or white glue to span a window perhaps 1/4 inch corner to corner, that can be dabbed/dropped into an opening, dries flat and then perhaps can be sanded to smoothness. Is there such a product or do you have to actually CAST the parts?

[Joseph Osborn]

Sounds to me like little chips cut from clear sheet would be a good alternative. I guess the real question is "how many of these windows must be made?" You could use tape to cover the outside of the window opening and drop fast-setting clear epoxy from the backside and it should give you a nice window, but it will be flush to the outer surface. I'd test the particular tape with the particular epoxy first to ensure compatibility.

More info will probably yield a lot of good ideas from others

[Lt. Z0mBe]

How deep is the opening?

If it is very shallow, you could go with very thin applications of clear fingernail polish or even thickened Future (leave some out overnight in a palette and then glop a bead in at a time). What I usually use for such lenses, though, is the trusted old epoxy or, as Mr. Osborn suggested, sheet or block styrene/acrylic. I file and then sand and polish to shape. I do the polishing with a fingernail buffing kit, using grits in the order specified on the package, but buffing with water; change the water between grits.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[dizzyfugu]

Humbrol used to have a special clear coat/material (similar to clear nail polish) which was intended to fill windows, e. g. on small scale passenger planes. I think it is out of production, though, and probably not stable enough to fill a 1/4" void without some construction help. But it dried up hard and clear, very effective for the intended job.

Joseph's suggested method with tape on the outside and filling the void from inside either with clear epoxy or something like Humbrol's window coat sound most promising to me, too.

[seam-filler]

Humbrol used to have a special clear coat/material (similar to clear nail polish) which was intended to fill windows, e. g. on small scale passenger planes. I think it is out of production, though, and probably not stable enough to fill a 1/4" void without some construction help. But it dried up hard and clear, very effective for the intended job.

Joseph's suggested method with tape on the outside and filling the void from inside either with clear epoxy or something like Humbrol's window coat sound most promising to me, too.

Humbrol have just (within the last few days) re-released Clearfix.

The tape idea doesn't work well with Clearfix - they stick to eachother too well and you end up removing the window when you take off the tape. However, I have had some success using a post-it instead of tape.

[DeltaVee]

Thanks all. My project is a 1/72 X-20, which has 3 cockpit windows. The fuselage is closed now, so I can only access the windows from the outside. The foreward windscreen worked well enough with some sanding. The side windows didn't really fit that well. I should have left the 'fuzz' in there as filler. I confess I lack the patience to carefully cut out new windows and shape them. I was just curious if there were a specific clear product that could be dabbed in the opening that would dry clear, flat and hard that would be better than Crystal Clear, which has a tendancy to dry with a curved, not-entirely-clear finish. Upon reflection, I probably could have created a flexible seal of Aves around the kit window pieces, inserted it and then smoothed out the Aves...had I thought of it before I closed up the fuselage. Late. I'm always late with careful thought and patience.

[Joseph Osborn]

So you have the two side windows to fill? Clear sheet stock, man! It's just two little windows! You can do it-- just get some scrap clamshell packaging material and do it. You might have to cut the first window piece two or three times at most. The second window will be even easier. Cut the window piece a little oversize and then use a sanding stick to refine the edges to the point where it fits the opening perfectly. If you have the skill to build a resin kit, then you most certainly have the skill to make two little windows !

[DeltaVee]

Appreciate the confidence and encouragement. This is actually a pretty simple kit. Part of the difficulty of these windows is just hanging on to them in the sanding process. I spent 15 minutes crawling around the carpet in one episode. This was best solved before I sealed up the fuselage. The difficulty now is that if the part doesn't set in correctly, I run the risk of it falling in. Not that you'd see it there, but I'd have to start over, try again, etc. I'll add this idea to the list but I'm developing more interest in the dried Future idea.

[TER-OR]

I've used Envirotex Light for this kind of thing.

You can see my work here:
http://modelingmadness.com/reviews/kore ... ebeech.htm

[DeltaVee]

That's some clean work. I may try it next time but I've sealed up the fuselage this time. Your article says you sealed up the windscreen with clear epoxy resin. Could you elaborate? Did you brush it around the frame and insert the transparency? Is it easy to wipe off any smears?

[TER-OR]

It's not easy to wipe away smears. You can clean up uncured Envirotex with alcohol. You do need to be careful, of course.

You can tape from the inside or outside, but be careful. The adhesive will not allow the part to be clear. If you want to tape from the inside with a clear packing tape or something similar it might work.

You can sand and polish the stuff nicely, though, if you allow it to build up a meniscus you can sand flush. Go slow, and use plenty of fresh water. That's what I did with the windscreen.

Kenny's thickened Future works well for that situation, too, though it may shrink down on you so may have to apply twice.

[DeltaVee]

I think I'll save the Envirotex for larger windows, an earlier stage of construction, and more fortitude. I'll try the Future trick.

[Andrew Gorman]

I've had good luck with filling windows that size with white glue. After it dries clear you can sand or clean up the edges with a wet q-tip. THEN add a layer of clear enamel to level it out and add some gloss.