Best Glue for Photo Etch to Plastic?

TD1701 · Post by **TD1701** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:29 pm

What is the best glue to use for gluing photoetch metal parts to plastic? I ordered some from the store for my TOS E and I want to use the best possible glue. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:44 pm

Something thin, and slow setting. While an epoxy isn't thin, the slow set time allows you to add just the amount you need, and time to place it properly. In many cases, I don't even use glue. I have set the PE parts into a wet coat of primer, and then once dried, apply a second coat to seal the part in. I have also used future floor wax, a clear acrylic. A little dab will do ya!! But a white is also useful, something like Elmer's. Again, slow set time, easy to clean up, and dries clear to help hide any extra.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:59 pm

I use CA, medium & rubber impregnate versions.

Thin is good for edge work and some flat work but the rubber impregnated stuff is great for PE going flat against plastic. The big trick is to get it on thin enough so that it doesn't mush out of the sides when pressed into place.

Andrew Gorman · Post by **Andrew Gorman** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:50 pm

Gator Glue came highly recommended, and it worked well on the single bit of photo etch I've applied since I got a bottle.-
http://gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html
interesting stuff, and easy to clean up if you make a mess.

TD1701 · Post by **TD1701** » Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:19 pm

Thanks Guys!

These are great suggestions, and I'll give them a try. I appreciate all the responses.

Thanks Again,

Tom

TD1701 · Post by **TD1701** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:01 pm

I have the photoetch parts now, and I need to know what is the best way to remove them from the parts tree without damaging them?

Thanks,

Tom

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:55 am

Place some masking tape to the back of the PE fret. Place the fret on a flat, hard surface, face up. A piece of glass works. Using a rounded blade, place the blade next to the attachment stub, and roll the blade over it, applying moderate pressure. The tape will stop the part from going POING across the room.

Arsenic Hipster · Post by **Arsenic Hipster** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:14 am

That's brilliant!
I'd never thought of that, for little bits like that I'd always just cupped my hand over it and hoped for the best.

This is why you should click on random threads even if you aren't sure they are of any interest to you.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:45 pm

The other, less slick looking, method is to place them into a clear sandwich bag or what and trim off the fret, the bag catching the part. Problems is its awkward and you go through a lot of bags.

jeffrowse · Post by **jeffrowse** » Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:56 am

Johnnycrash wrote:Place some masking tape to the back of the PE fret. Place the fret on a flat, hard surface, face up. A piece of glass works. Using a rounded blade, place the blade next to the attachment stub, and roll the blade over it, applying moderate pressure. The tape will stop the part from going POING across the room.

Known in some engineering establishments as "Ping-FrackIt Tape" since it stops the part going "Ping" and you going... well, I dare say you can work it out :-)

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:38 am

That's a bit like spring circlips - they were always knows as "Jesus Clips" because that's what you'd say when the went ping and flew across the room or ricocheted deep into the bowels of the engine bay.