Anyone ever used Future as setting solution ??

[samusaran]

I've browsed through te DECALS topic and I was thinking about using Future as a setting solution. Is it a good Idea ???

Before applying my decals, I will put a coat of Future and let it dry. Then, after soaking my decal in water, just before to put it to my enterprise model, apply a fine coat of Future and then put the decal over it.

I want to do that because I've heard some people having problem with the MicroSet solution attacking the Future coat and whitening it.

[Kylwell]

As long as the surface isn't too convoluted it'll work. It's when you've got bumps & dips that you need a settling solution like MicroSol/Set.

[samusaran]

Will there be any compatibility problems with MicroSet and Future ??

[Apollo Adama]

Will there be any compatibility problems with MicroSet and Future ??

As you asked this in Advanced decals, here was my response:

I've browsed through te DECALS topic and I was thinking about using Future as a setting solution. Is it a good Idea ???

Before applying my decals, I will put a coat of Future and let it dry. Then, after soaking my decal in water, just before to put it to my enterprise model, apply a fine coat of Future and then put the decal over it.

I waat to do that because I've heard some people having problem with the MicroSet solution attacking the Future coat and whitening it.

It all depends on what you mean by "setting solution." If you are talking about using it on the location where you are going to apply your decal as opposed to using a little puddle of water, I do it sometimes, depending on how irregular the surface of the kit (and if I didn't use enough Future to prep the model for decals to begin with). IMHO, you're going a little light with the one coat of Future in prep of decaling. I've never been able to get a high gloss finish by spraying one coat. I basically spray multiple coats until I get that glass-like finish. Then I use a water or Future (if necessary) applied to the surface and then apply the decal on the wet surface. If you use Future, yes, it will help your decals conform better to irregular surfaces, cracks and crevices but it does not replace the need to apply a decal softener and a setting solution like SolvaSet (I can't speak for MicroSet as I've never used it) on top of the decal after it has dried.

If you're talking about applying Future on top of a decal after it's dried, I don't see the point of doing this as an alternative to softener or setting solution. It doesn't do the same the thing. Give me a bottle of softener and Solvaset and I can decal a marble and with no creases or bubbles. You can't do that with Future.

As to the "hazing" or "whitening" I've only had it happen once and that was when I didn't let the Future cure long enough. If you want to be safe, let it cure 24 - 48 hours depending on the humidity where you live.

[PetarB]

Before applying my decals, I will put a coat of Future and let it dry. Then, after soaking my decal in water, just before to put it to my enterprise model, apply a fine coat of Future and then put the decal over it.

As has been said, if the surface isn't too convoluted, it's actually a fantastic way to assure bond to the surface, and also remove any air from underneath. The problem, of course, is that there's not much room for error!

[samusaran]

Before applying my decals, I will put a coat of Future and let it dry. Then, after soaking my decal in water, just before to put it to my enterprise model, apply a fine coat of Future and then put the decal over it.

As has been said, if the surface isn't too convoluted, it's actually a fantastic way to assure bond to the surface, and also remove any air from underneath. The problem, of course, is that there's not much room for error!

Is setting solution ( like Microset ) a better idea ??? Do you have more time to place your decals ?? After comments from other people, I think a setting solution would be a better idea. And maybe Microsol after ???

[TER-OR]

Future is fast. Don't combine it with any other solutions, you can get some interference with the acrylic.

You have little time to move the decal. I put a drop of Future on the model, place the decal, use a clean brush to push out excess and wick it away, then let it sit.

To be honest, I don't get much better results doing this than with standard methods. The key is the high gloss surface. My last aircraft I used a foam brush to apply two layers of Future, applied the decals using traditional Microset and Solvaset, and then applied a layer of Future over the decals.

With Future as setting solution you will not have an opportunity to fix any problems, and you will not get a lot of conformation over details. If you plan to cut the decal to get it into a panel line, the Future will not be your ally.

[Apollo Adama]

Future is fast. Don't combine it with any other solutions, you can get some interference with the acrylic.

You have little time to move the decal. I put a drop of Future on the model, place the decal, use a clean brush to push out excess and wick it away, then let it sit.

To be honest, I don't get much better results doing this than with standard methods. The key is the high gloss surface. My last aircraft I used a foam brush to apply two layers of Future, applied the decals using traditional Microset and Solvaset, and then applied a layer of Future over the decals.

With Future as setting solution you will not have an opportunity to fix any problems, and you will not get a lot of conformation over details. If you plan to cut the decal to get it into a panel line, the Future will not be your ally.

Perfectly put.

Like I said, I don't use it unless it's absolutely necessary for all of the reasons stated above. It can sometimes be useful sometimes for highly irregular surfaces and for surfaces where you didn't get enough a gloss finish as you really should have.

TER-OR has it spot-on. The key is entirely the gloss surface. You can just spray or brush on one coat of Future. Your surface has to be completely glossy. It can't be partially glossy or semi-glossy, it has to be hi-gloss. That is the only way to truly avoid silvering, Sets and softeners are just helpers to get over those really tough spots.