Working with Smooth-On Mold Max 30 - Help!!!

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:20 pm

OK folks,

I switched from my trusty GI-1000 to Smooth-On's Mold Max 30. I have now poured my first set of molds. I am both delighted, and disappointed.

It's mixing/pouring quality is great, feels no different than GI-1000. The cured MM30 is great. Feels and behaves just like GI-1000.

But... That little bit that spills/leaks out and so on; It isn't curing. It's sticky as all get out. Clean up is such an incredible hassle. I am seriously thinking that at almost double the cost, GI-1000 is a better deal. I have tools, and all kinds of things now that will be damn near impossible to clean so I can use them again. One thing I could count on with GI-1000 as that no matter how small a dribble or drabble I got anywhere, it would cure out. Then I just needed to peel it off, and clean up was done. Now?? Not so much.

So, Mold Max 30 users: Any advice?? To either get that stuff to cure, or for cleaning up the aftermath??

Alex Dumas · Post by **Alex Dumas** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:36 pm

I have been using MoldMax 30 for years and I think it's the best stuff to date. Those spills will take longer to cure but they will... However, since you and I don't have that time to wait, I always pour my molds on papers and throw it away once I'm done. As for spills left onto my tools and forms, they usually cured before my next sets of moulds are needed (a few weeks at most...)

You'll see, you'll like your new molds for sure

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:48 pm

The spills are on my lego, I use to make the mold boxes. So, after evacuating the rubber, the lego is covered with a very thing layer. I NEED the lego so I can make more mold boxes. And cleaning all that lego... Well, I'm not happy about that at all.

Anything I can do to accelerate the curing of the spillage?? Or better yet, make sure it cures along with the rest of the mold?? Maybe adding more catalyst to the base mix?? Putting the molds in a heat box?? Did I mention I'm not happy with this??

I like the new molds so far. But this lack of curing on the spills is going to be a HUGE drawback. Even to the point of NOT using it again.

And I like the resin as well. I switched from Por-A-Kast to Smooth-Cast 305. I will be using SC300 next time. I wasn't sure, so I used the slower stuff until I got used to it's feel and rhythm. I LIKE IT!!!!

It's VERY thin. I have to change a few ways of doing things to compensate for that though.

I don't have time for this right now!!! I just need it to frakking work!!!!

Alex Dumas · Post by **Alex Dumas** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:41 pm

I use lego blocks as well but less than before as I tend to use 'L' shape styrene walls instead (to make adjustable forms). They are more tight and a lot easier to clean and prep IMHO.

You can try putting the uncured silicon in the oven at 100F for a few hours (that's what Smooth-On recommends anyway for post-curing the molds if I am not mistaken...) but I have never tried puting lego in it though...

I use SmoothCast 321 for most of my castings and it's great. Sets pretty fast which is best if you don't pressure cast...

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:49 pm

Thanks Alex. Looks like I just need to be patient. Ugh!!

Knowing this now, I'll change the way I do things I guess. Don't have much of a choice.

I really liked using lego. I could replicate the size of a mold, infinite configurations for boxes, reusable (until now)...

Pressure Casting all the way baby!!!

And if you pressure, you much vacuum. No other way. And I guess that's the problem for me. It's that thin film on everything where the rubber expanded.