Model Masters Metalizers - to prime or not to prime?

[simster]

So, I've read both - always prime and then with the metalizers, no priming needed -

Whats the conssensus here?

[Kylwell]

Unfortunately there's no simple answer. Some metalisers looks better on a black primed surface, others don't need it.

[kenlilly106]

MM Metalizers are formulated to bond to bare polished styrene for the best effect, if you're shotting them over another paint then that paint has to be smooth and shiny as well.

I think as long as your primer coat is compatible with lacquer paints then you should be ok, as always: test first

Ken

[TER-OR]

You'll probably want to prime with a shiny coat to check for surface errors, if nothing else. There's nothing like a bare-metal surface to show every scratch...

[Ace Airspeed]

MM Metalizers are formulated to bond to bare polished styrene for the best effect, if you're shotting them over another paint then that paint has to be smooth and shiny as well.

I think as long as your primer coat is compatible with lacquer paints then you should be ok, as always: test first

Ken

Agreed. I've never primed a surface for Metalizers. I would definitely experiment on scrap with a primer before I commited a project to it.

[MillenniumFalsehood]

I've got a question about this while we're on the subject.

The bottle says to buff after ten minutes, then decal as normal. What do I buff with and how long do I need to wait before it sets enough to handle whilst decaling and detail-painting?

[Ace Airspeed]

I always buffed with a 100 percent cotton cloth (old T shirt). The finish usually buffs out fairly quickly. As for handling, I tried to avoid handling unsealed Metalizer finishes - I always put a coat of sealer down before handling and decals.

I believe the unsealed Metalizer can take decals nicely once buffed - it's nice and smooth, but I didn't want to mar the finish with my fingers.