Krylon Fusion over Mr. Surfacer Will it work?

[marc111]

So I am working on my refit and I have decided to use White Krylon Fusion for Plastic as my base coat. (This way I can do the searchlight effects from inside.)

Here's my question: In a few spots I have already used Mr. Surfacer 1000 (DuPont 131S primer.) as the primer.

Can I spray the Krylon Fusion over Mr. Surfacer ??? Will it adhere and do it's thing as a base coat?

Hoping someone might have some insight,
Mark

[pocketpencil]

I have had Fusion adhere to other material besides plastic. When in doubt, as always test it first though.

I think fusion just has better adhesion to plastic but is more or less a normal spray paint, in my experience anyhow.

[marc111]

Thanks for the feedback. I will try a test just to be sure.

Mark

[WarpeD]

I strongly advise against using Krylon Fusion. For anything. Others may differ, but I had very poor luck this past summer using it on plexiglas - acrylic plastic. It looked like hell. It's not made for model building, Marc. It's a household utility paint, and will go on way too thick. If you must spray bomb, invest in Tamiya or other purpose-made product. It will cost a good deal more, but in the end you will be happier with the result. Otherwise there are lots of other alternatives best applied with an airbrush, and no shortage of good information on them in this forum.

[pocketpencil]

Spray paints dont stick to plexiglass well no matter the type. The plastic is much too slick to really adhere to anything, and its often coated with slippery teflon laced coatings so its a better window type material.


I have found with the fusion you need to sand the base material pretty well prior to painting and use a VERY LIGHT touch when applying in thin coats. That being said, i usually just use regular spray paints or tamiya paints as the fusion isnt necessarily any better for modeling. I guess you might find better results if you didnt want to prime and wanted only 1 coat from a can, but even then, you can get that with thin tamiya paints.

[WarpeD]

The reason for Krylon's Fusion is to get a chemical bond that is not supposed to need the very same sanding that any other paint typically needs when used on plastic. That way you can take advantage of that super smooth surface while saving work time. In theory. Theory disproven, in my case, anyway. Worked just okay after said sanding, although I will never use it again. Way too fragile. And thick.

[pocketpencil]

The krylon wont interact chemically with plexiglass, so that is probably part of the problem.

Either way, it works best on PVC and ABS in my experience. Though it isnt really necessary.

Good old tamiya works well.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

Krylon Fusion = Bantha poudou.

I tried it as a primer over a styrene sheet base and it would not stick worth a damn. Worst of all, it never seemed to cure; I finally had to strip it, after a week of waiting, in a bath of Castrol Super Clean.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

[marc111]

Thanks for the additional feedback everyone. This is exactly what I was hoping for to prevent my making a mistake. I may have to rethink the fusion and go with Tamya White primer instead.

The good news is I have not applied the fusion to anything on the real model as yet. Only some test pieces.

What I am after is a weight base coat. I will then over spray the aztec with a acrylic clear satin mixed with interference powders.

Regards,

Mark

[pocketpencil]

Tamiya works every time.

Best not to fool with the fusion on your models. I have only used it on larger scale prop type stuff that did not need detail. And i sanded the bejeezuz out of the surface first.

[WarpeD]

Wish I'd known about the plexi thing earlier. It's holding up so far with the plex scuffed with 320 grit.....I just don't want to have to take apart all of the switch panels in my cockpit to repaint the supporting framework....made of plexiglas, naturally. Next time....a good scuff and good ol' Krylon flat black!

[Disillusionist]

I've been using Fusion when making back lit acrylic displays for quite some time now. Never had a problem.

[pocketpencil]

Maybe you have some less difficult to paint acrylic? Good question. The plexi tends to be the worst ive found though.

That or your good (lucky) or both

[Disillusionist]

Maybe you have some less difficult to paint acrylic? Good question. The plexi tends to be the worst ive found though.

That or your good (lucky) or both

Well, I wouldn't say I've been lucky, but it does tend to work. I just build it up the film very slowly over multiple coats. Also, I don't use common extruded plexi for painting and engraving. I use cast, such as Plexiglas G. I'm not sure if that makes the difference or not, but I do know that cast material has a higher resistance to crazing from solvents than extruded.

[pocketpencil]

That may well be the difference. Hey, if it works for you it works.

[marc111]

You are not going to believe this. I went to my local hobby store and asked for Tamiya Primer. They did not have white in stock so I asked when they could get some in. They checked and said Tamiya sent out an anouncement that they were reviewing their paint chemicals against US import laws and it would be first quarter of 2011 or later before they would start shipping paint again. Wahhhh!

What they did have was Model Master Custom Spray Enamel White Primer. Has anyone used this and how good is it? How does it compare to Tamya?

Am I better off seeing if they have a bottle form and airbrushing or will the rattle can be OK?

Thanks,
Mark

[pocketpencil]

I saw that the other day too.

You could try Mr. Surfacer. It appears to be (and smells to be) the same stuff as the Tamiya primer.

The model master stuff works well too...but it goes on much thicker than Tamiya or Mr Surfacer.

[marc111]

Possibilities. however my problem is i must have a primer that is white. A nice clean white. Lights will be shining through it.

Mark

[pocketpencil]

I feel like i have seen Mr Surfacer in white. This may be my imagination though.

[Kylwell]

I feel like i have seen Mr Surfacer in white. This may be my imagination though.

Yes, Mr Surfacer 1000 comes in white.

[Wug]

Hi marc111,

Are you sure DuPont 131S primer is identical to Mr. Surfacer? Many people claim it is but I've never seen it demonstrated.

Can you remove dried DuPont 131S with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol? For me this is Mr. Surfacer's greatest benefit.

Mr. Surfacer seems optimized for polystyrene and ABS. Gunze even makes a separate metal primer? If it was the same as DuPont 131S there wouldn't be any trouble importing it.

Hi pocketpencil,

Can you remove the Tamiya primer with 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol?

Thanks,

Mike

[pocketpencil]

Acetone will knock it off soon after spraying and before it is super cured. I have not tried IPA. I think an extended acetone or IPA soak would loosen it enough to come off after a full cure, but i would have to test it.

[Wug]

Thanks pocketpencil,

I'd like to know if you can put a bead of Tamiya primer on a seam, let it dry then wipe it down with 99% IPA for a no-sand seam.

Mike

[pocketpencil]

I suppose as long as it was dry enough that it didnt wick out of the joint it would probably work. I know some people use CA glue to do that same type of thing too.

I personally use white glue. Then you can shape it before it dries. Or mix a slurry if you need it to flow well


I would try it before attempting on your model at either rate.

[Kylwell]

Acetone will knock it off soon after spraying and before it is super cured. I have not tried IPA. I think an extended acetone or IPA soak would loosen it enough to come off after a full cure, but i would have to test it.

Do you really want to soak your styrene or resin model in acetone? Do you really want to be breathing that ≠♀§#&@(§ in?

[pocketpencil]

I wear a respirator. Though it is an industrial one since i work with the stuff on a daily basis.

I would not recommend doing too much without that though. Soaking might be a bit too much

Stick with the IPA to be sure.

[Wug]

I was hoping someone with the Dupont primer would run a test with IPA.

[eeun]

I know the topic is moving away from Krylon Fusion, but I've had good results with it.

Decanting it for the airbrush, I thinned it a bit more with lacquer thinner and it sprayed smoothly over Dupli-color primer. It also mixes with other paints, or at least the alkyd paints I was using.

results on a mid-eighties Gundam kit - the light blue is the Krylon Fusion, the pink is Tamiya overtop of the Krylon.

I tried the Fusion because I had it on hand, and it was the exact colour I was looking for.

[WolfRayet]

I know the topic is moving away from Krylon Fusion, but I've had good results with it.

Decanting it for the airbrush, I thinned it a bit more with lacquer thinner and it sprayed smoothly over Dupli-color primer. It also mixes with other paints, or at least the alkyd paints I was using.

results on a mid-eighties Gundam kit - the light blue is the Krylon Fusion, the pink is Tamiya overtop of the Krylon.

I tried the Fusion because I had it on hand, and it was the exact colour I was looking for.

Well, yea, you sprayed it on a primed surface. Fusion has an accelerator in it. I was asking in another forum about Fusion and found out it didn't work good as a primer on styrene. I am looking for a good sticking black primer for light masking. Since they have spotlight LED's, no sense in making a glow thru the hull effect.