whats the best way to apply ambroid pro weld ?
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- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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whats the best way to apply ambroid pro weld ?
I have a kit that requires ambroid pro-weld and bought a bottle. having never used this before, i see it has a brush applicator that is not small by any means. What is the best way to use this ? with the brush or smaller brush and how long do i have to work with it before it dries or evaporates on the parts ? do i apply this cement to both parts being cemented ?
BERT
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- USS Atlantis
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Being a Pro-Weld/Tenax 7R junkie (They're pretty much the same) - I don't use anything else on ANY of my styrene - here's the tips
1) Insure that the two parts being joined meet cleanly
2) Hold the parts together
3) Use a SMALL brush (I use a 10/0 artists brush)
4) Apply SPARINGLY along the seam
5) Hold for 10-15 seconds - squeezing slightly
You're done
1) Insure that the two parts being joined meet cleanly
2) Hold the parts together
3) Use a SMALL brush (I use a 10/0 artists brush)
4) Apply SPARINGLY along the seam
5) Hold for 10-15 seconds - squeezing slightly
You're done
- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:01 pm
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Thanks ! so capillary action is the best then ? For large parts such as the BIG seaview that has the front and rear halves to be joined and there are large flat surfaces that need cementing, i guess the brush that comes with it would work here. how long do i have to join the 2 parts , what I mean is what is the working time of the pro-weld ?
Bert
Bert
BERT
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- USS Atlantis
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For longer pieces - like my TSR-2's main fuselage - I worked in sections of 3-4 inches - glue a 3-4" length, let it dry, move to the next length
Working time is VERY short when using the small amounts - the 10-15 seconds is to full drying time
Using larger amounts - like the supplied brush - can lead to things like sag, distortion - the Pro-Weld/Tenax is actually melting the styrene - the less melt the better
And it is actually melting part of the styrene, then bonding the two pieces into one complete whole - it's not like CA where the CA holds the parts together, this is actually WELDING the styrene together
The ONLY way to break a Pro-Weld/Tenax joint is to saw it apart, the joints aren't breaking since there really isn't a joint anymore
Working time is VERY short when using the small amounts - the 10-15 seconds is to full drying time
Using larger amounts - like the supplied brush - can lead to things like sag, distortion - the Pro-Weld/Tenax is actually melting the styrene - the less melt the better
And it is actually melting part of the styrene, then bonding the two pieces into one complete whole - it's not like CA where the CA holds the parts together, this is actually WELDING the styrene together
The ONLY way to break a Pro-Weld/Tenax joint is to saw it apart, the joints aren't breaking since there really isn't a joint anymore
- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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- Joined: Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:01 pm
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It is the big 39 inch long moebius seaview kit with the front & rear sections being cemented together with a cylindrical male/female kind of set up. one tube slides onto a smaller tube section. I have seen some people screw them together. maybe testors liquid cement might be a better choice because of the melt. I may not have to use a whole lot of pro-weld either, maybe a few well spaced lines of it all the way around.
thanks for the help, i wasn't sure of how fast you needed to work with it.Capillary action seems to be the way to go with other areas of models.
Bert
thanks for the help, i wasn't sure of how fast you needed to work with it.Capillary action seems to be the way to go with other areas of models.
Bert
BERT
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- Mr. Badwrench
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This is what I use to apply Ambroid ProWeld. These come in several different sizes, but I find the smaller needles work the best. They allow you to place just a tiny drop at a time, just where you need it. The only problem I have with them is sometimes capillary action will draw a drop of melted styrene back into the needle and clog it. Fortunately these bottles come with a wire to clean out the needle.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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