Lighting the NX refit, *help needed*
Moderators: Sparky, Moderators
- brandomack
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:01 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC
Lighting the NX refit, *help needed*
I have several questions, and if anyone could answer in plain english, it would be GREATLY appreciated.
I will be lighting my 1:350 NX refit with about 60 LEDs all will be white except for the 8 running lights on a separate blinker circuit
(4 green, 4 red)
5 will be spotlights (raytheon effect?)
there are 2 arrays of 9 white Led's that came from dollar store flashlights
(3 AAA=4.5V each)
Will be wired in parallel.
will someone please tell me the following...
1) what should my source voltage be? (safest bet, without overdoing it)
2) what should my diode forward voltage be?
3) what should my diode forward current (mA) be?
4) do i need resistors?
5) if i need resistors:
-how many?
-what rating?
-where in the circuit do i put them?
6) will the 2 circuit pole stand ($25) from trekmodeler be sufficient
7) what gauge wire do i use?
sorry for all the questions, I cant afford $125-$300 for the lighting kit but this will still be my first attempt at lighting a model.
thank you all very very much in advance for any help.
I will be lighting my 1:350 NX refit with about 60 LEDs all will be white except for the 8 running lights on a separate blinker circuit
(4 green, 4 red)
5 will be spotlights (raytheon effect?)
there are 2 arrays of 9 white Led's that came from dollar store flashlights
(3 AAA=4.5V each)
Will be wired in parallel.
will someone please tell me the following...
1) what should my source voltage be? (safest bet, without overdoing it)
2) what should my diode forward voltage be?
3) what should my diode forward current (mA) be?
4) do i need resistors?
5) if i need resistors:
-how many?
-what rating?
-where in the circuit do i put them?
6) will the 2 circuit pole stand ($25) from trekmodeler be sufficient
7) what gauge wire do i use?
sorry for all the questions, I cant afford $125-$300 for the lighting kit but this will still be my first attempt at lighting a model.
thank you all very very much in advance for any help.
"Dr. TRAN has a PhD in KICKING YOUR ASS!!"
Well, you need to know the basics of your LEDs first, what the foward voltage is, etc. If your using white LEDs 3v will be fine to power them. The colred LEDs will need a slightly lower voltage requiring resistors. What type depends on what your power source will be. If you do a 3v power supply you will need resistors on the colored LEDs. Use this site to see it wired up. It will give you the resistor type.
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
- brandomack
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:01 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC
- brandomack
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:01 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC
So,
I ordered my led's off ebay.
this is everything I got.
200 x White 5mm LEDs
Emitted Colour : White
Size (mm) : 5mm
Lens Colour : Water Clear
Peak Wave Length (nm) : N/A
Forward Voltage (V) : 3.2 ~ 3.8
Reverse Current (uA) : <=30
Luminous Intensity Typ Iv (mcd) : Average in 20000
Life Rating : 100,000 Hours
Viewing Angle : 20 ~ 25 Degree
Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C)
Max Power Dissipation : 80mw
Max Continuous Forward Current : 30mA
Max Peak Forward Current : 75mA
Reverse Voltage : 5~6V
Lead Soldering Temperature : 240°C (<5Sec)
Operating Temperature Range : -25°C ~ +85°C
Preservative Temperature Range : -30°C ~ +100°C
50 x 12V DC 20cm PRE Wired 5mm BLUE LEDS
•BLUE
•50pcs Wired LED
12VDC Wired 5mm LED
Narrow Viewing Angle: 20~25 Deg
20cm Cables
Working for 9-14VDC
100 x 22 Ohm Carbon Film Resistors 1/4W 0.25W, RoHS
100 x 150 Ohm Carbon Film Resistors 1/4W 0.25W, RoHS
12V/1A AC/DC adapter
I still need the female end for that AC/DC adapter where do i get it?
if I want a 3 circuit system (white, blue, running lights)
what is the best way of achieving this (using a universal circuit board)
I will draw up a wiring diagram and you can tell me where I'm wrong.
I ordered my led's off ebay.
this is everything I got.
200 x White 5mm LEDs
Emitted Colour : White
Size (mm) : 5mm
Lens Colour : Water Clear
Peak Wave Length (nm) : N/A
Forward Voltage (V) : 3.2 ~ 3.8
Reverse Current (uA) : <=30
Luminous Intensity Typ Iv (mcd) : Average in 20000
Life Rating : 100,000 Hours
Viewing Angle : 20 ~ 25 Degree
Absolute Maximum Ratings (Ta=25°C)
Max Power Dissipation : 80mw
Max Continuous Forward Current : 30mA
Max Peak Forward Current : 75mA
Reverse Voltage : 5~6V
Lead Soldering Temperature : 240°C (<5Sec)
Operating Temperature Range : -25°C ~ +85°C
Preservative Temperature Range : -30°C ~ +100°C
50 x 12V DC 20cm PRE Wired 5mm BLUE LEDS
•BLUE
•50pcs Wired LED
12VDC Wired 5mm LED
Narrow Viewing Angle: 20~25 Deg
20cm Cables
Working for 9-14VDC
100 x 22 Ohm Carbon Film Resistors 1/4W 0.25W, RoHS
100 x 150 Ohm Carbon Film Resistors 1/4W 0.25W, RoHS
12V/1A AC/DC adapter
I still need the female end for that AC/DC adapter where do i get it?
if I want a 3 circuit system (white, blue, running lights)
what is the best way of achieving this (using a universal circuit board)
I will draw up a wiring diagram and you can tell me where I'm wrong.
"Dr. TRAN has a PhD in KICKING YOUR ASS!!"
-
- Posts: 1818
- Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2005 9:16 am
- Location: Serenity.
- Contact:
- brandomack
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:01 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC
My own design.Madman Lighting wrote:Mind if I ask where to get one of these 1:350th NX refits? I see SSM has the 1:1000 NX refits but a 350th?
Odd looking ship too, looks like someone welded on a TOS secondary hull to an NX-01 and called it a Refit. Just MHO.
"Dr. TRAN has a PhD in KICKING YOUR ASS!!"
- brandomack
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:01 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC
I have two choices for my power supply
one is 12V the other is 24V
for the 24V i was going to add a time delay fuse, and then a potentiometer to each of the circuits 3V for white 12V for blue and 4.5V for the bussards
is there an easier way? am i crazy?
(I build elevators, so I get most of the major stuff for free)
one is 12V the other is 24V
for the 24V i was going to add a time delay fuse, and then a potentiometer to each of the circuits 3V for white 12V for blue and 4.5V for the bussards
is there an easier way? am i crazy?
(I build elevators, so I get most of the major stuff for free)
"Dr. TRAN has a PhD in KICKING YOUR ASS!!"
The others have mentioned a lot that will help, but I have to ask, why 60 LED's??? You should only need 10 for lighting windows in the saucer, 4 for lighting the secondary hull windows, 2 for warp engine glow, 2 for impulse glow plus the blinker circuit. So only 18-20
Rob "Talon" Holts
Acreation Models
http://www.acreationmodels.com
"If my calculations are correct, once this thing hits 88 mph, you're going to see some serious $@*&!"
Acreation Models
http://www.acreationmodels.com
"If my calculations are correct, once this thing hits 88 mph, you're going to see some serious $@*&!"
- brandomack
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:01 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC
why 60? cuz I'm a wild and crazy guy!talon wrote:The others have mentioned a lot that will help, but I have to ask, why 60 LED's??? You should only need 10 for lighting windows in the saucer, 4 for lighting the secondary hull windows, 2 for warp engine glow, 2 for impulse glow plus the blinker circuit. So only 18-20
Its a big sumbitch, so why not overdo it?
"Dr. TRAN has a PhD in KICKING YOUR ASS!!"
Discoprise...brandomack wrote:
Its a big sumbitch, so why not overdo it?
Rob "Talon" Holts
Acreation Models
http://www.acreationmodels.com
"If my calculations are correct, once this thing hits 88 mph, you're going to see some serious $@*&!"
Acreation Models
http://www.acreationmodels.com
"If my calculations are correct, once this thing hits 88 mph, you're going to see some serious $@*&!"
- brandomack
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Mon Feb 16, 2009 12:01 pm
- Location: Vancouver, BC