spotlighting pl refit enterprise 1/350
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spotlighting pl refit enterprise 1/350
I recently ordered a bunch of 3mm leds from uniqueleds.com, with a 30 degree viewing angle. I was wondering if there was a way to alter the leds to produce a narrower viewing angle to be used as spotlights in the warp nacelles. I just recently found this site, and have to say, it appears to be a goldmine of information that I am using in trying to build my first model in almost 15 years. Many thanks in advance for any help. I am also not planning on doing the raytheon method of spotlighting, and am wondering if anybody could recommend what type of leds that could be used to throw the spotlights on the upper and lower saucer sections.
Only two things I can think of, either mount them deeper within the nacelle so that the shaft directs the light more, or don't surface mount the LED at all, and use fiber optics. The reason people around here use the "Raytheon" effect is because the distance and angle between the nacelle and the hull is great enough that you are not going to get a nice clean spotlight no matter what you do. It will be a diagonal slash.
I am not a number.
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I understand the method behind the raytheon effect, but have read in another thread that the the raytheon effect cannot be used in the reissue pl enterprise due to the plastic making the light look yellowish on the outside. I'm sure you're right about the fact that the spotlights won't be as sharp as they are on the movie model, but after seeing delorean man's enterprise fully lit, I am more than willing to give up the movie effect for a more realistic lighting effect.No_6 wrote:Only two things I can think of, either mount them deeper within the nacelle so that the shaft directs the light more, or don't surface mount the LED at all, and use fiber optics. The reason people around here use the "Raytheon" effect is because the distance and angle between the nacelle and the hull is great enough that you are not going to get a nice clean spotlight no matter what you do. It will be a diagonal slash.
Before all this fancy gear had lockable triggers, a big heavy duty rubber band wrapped around the handle and slipped over the trigger was sufficient to hold the switch closed to keep a tool running with your hands off of it.DLMatthys wrote:I have narrowed them down to 1mm also.
Using a Unimate lathe and a jewelrs file.
Before the lathe I had turned them down by chucking them in a drill secured with a bench vice. The type of drill used is handy if it has a trigger setting to stay ON.
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The site also has 5mm LEDs in the 13 degree high brightness variety?
The right tool for the right job....
http://www.unique-leds.com/index.php?ta ... ct_id=1610
The right tool for the right job....
http://www.unique-leds.com/index.php?ta ... ct_id=1610