Ok so i found and have bought 4 bottles of Spray Future Acrylic Wax Repackaged In Iwata Bottle they are 3oz bottles
1st question do i need to thin this when using an airbrush?
2nd question, if yes do i use acrylic thinners?
And lastly will that be enough to do the BIG E
Question about FUTURE
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Two issues here
1. You should be able to shoot it through an airbrush without thinning
2. It can be thinned with water and cleaned off with Isopropyl alcohol. I can't say for sure, but I suspect you will get better results if thin with Isopropyl as well.
3. I hope that the Future is the old formulation. There was a new formula released a year or so ago that does not work or not as well (but I have seen some dispute over this) Also, it may just be the UK brand
Anyway this article may help.
Edit
Article says there has been no reformulation although I am certain there were some comments on SSM that suggested otherwise. Someone even contacted the manufacturer to complain and inform them of the other uses for Future. Odd as it may seem, some people pour it on their floors What an odd thing to do
1. You should be able to shoot it through an airbrush without thinning
2. It can be thinned with water and cleaned off with Isopropyl alcohol. I can't say for sure, but I suspect you will get better results if thin with Isopropyl as well.
3. I hope that the Future is the old formulation. There was a new formula released a year or so ago that does not work or not as well (but I have seen some dispute over this) Also, it may just be the UK brand
Anyway this article may help.
Edit
Article says there has been no reformulation although I am certain there were some comments on SSM that suggested otherwise. Someone even contacted the manufacturer to complain and inform them of the other uses for Future. Odd as it may seem, some people pour it on their floors What an odd thing to do
Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage
to change the things I cannot accept, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those I had to kill today because they got on my nerves.
And help me to remember when I'm having a bad day and it seems that people are trying to wind me up, it takes 42 muscles to frown, 28 to smile
and only 4 to extend my arm and smack someone in the mouth!
to change the things I cannot accept, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those I had to kill today because they got on my nerves.
And help me to remember when I'm having a bad day and it seems that people are trying to wind me up, it takes 42 muscles to frown, 28 to smile
and only 4 to extend my arm and smack someone in the mouth!
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- Lt. Z0mBe
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US Future is unchanged. Future overseas varies. For example: Even though the brand is usually the same in Australia and U.K., the formulations are different some times and the same at others, with the U.K. brand some times being the same formulation as the US and some times being the wonky wax garbage they have in Australia. For the overseas stuff, it literally comes down to logistics as to what locations have what formulations at what times.
A gentleman at Johnson & Johnson was kind enough to clear (Klear, lol) this up for me last year and I posted in another thread.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
A gentleman at Johnson & Johnson was kind enough to clear (Klear, lol) this up for me last year and I posted in another thread.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
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Acrylic varnish usually works fine with decals. Very, very occasionally you might find a decal that reacts badly, but in my experience it is very rare. You do need to make sure that the decals are completely dry before coating with acrylic - leave them a day or two after applying to be sure.
In my experience Future (or at least the old formula) yellows less than acrylic varnish, especially when exposed to UV light. Some acrylic varnishes are more light-stable than others - amongst the best are the ones intended for artists (Daler Rowney, Windsor & Newton, Liquitex, etc). They also tend to be less "hot" than some brands and are less likely to curl the decals.
In my experience Future (or at least the old formula) yellows less than acrylic varnish, especially when exposed to UV light. Some acrylic varnishes are more light-stable than others - amongst the best are the ones intended for artists (Daler Rowney, Windsor & Newton, Liquitex, etc). They also tend to be less "hot" than some brands and are less likely to curl the decals.
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
- Lt. Z0mBe
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If you keep Future out of sunlight, it will not yellow over time. I have pieces here that were Futured in the summer of 1995 and have not yellowed in the slightest. Again, the only sunlight they have ever seen was as they were transported to Wonderfest and other contests.
This pertains to the American Future formula. The overseas formula varies. Again, at least according to my contact at SC Johnson, some overseas stuff is the same as American Future and some is not. In Australia and the Pacific, it tends not to be, but may sometimes be depending on logistics. In Europe, it tends to be but may sometimes not be, again, depending upon logistics. The only way to know for certain about overseas Future (Klear) and whether or not it's the same formulation as American Future is to contact SC Johnson with the lot information.
I hope this helps.
Kenny
This pertains to the American Future formula. The overseas formula varies. Again, at least according to my contact at SC Johnson, some overseas stuff is the same as American Future and some is not. In Australia and the Pacific, it tends not to be, but may sometimes be depending on logistics. In Europe, it tends to be but may sometimes not be, again, depending upon logistics. The only way to know for certain about overseas Future (Klear) and whether or not it's the same formulation as American Future is to contact SC Johnson with the lot information.
I hope this helps.
Kenny