I sit down to work tonight and my thick super glue has thinned to the consistency of water. It will not adhere to anything. I can't even glue my fingers together!! Zip kicker has no effect on it. Tried shaking it, no dice. Does this sound like a bad batch?
I have nothing but problems with modeling glues. Either the cap clogs or the glue dries up before I can use half of it. I've even tried using a sealed cap to store it, but to no effect. I'm just sick and tired of paying $5 for glue that doesn't work or dries before I can get any use out of it.
What kind of glue do you guys use? I use Tenax on styrene, super glue mainly resin and vinyl.
Airdave
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"Always be yourself...unless you suck." - Joss Whedon
Styrene - Ambroid or Tenax
Resin - Super-glue - but get a good brand, not a nameless or "hobby-shop" branded - I stick with Loctite - they have everything from super-thin to black
Plastic cement, wood-glue, 2-part epoxy for the most parts.
CA I use very sparingly and only of one make(Wave), I also found it tends to be more problem than help. NEVER use a kicker myself not needed with the glues I use as they are also non-fogging.
I jsut do not trust Superglues- they work for a while but can just let go or sheer with applied stress, or jsut when they decide to. For resin kits I use two part epoxy- it is a mess but it does last.
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I use superglue for women's nail extensions. They come in small bottles, so you use them before they go bad, and I buy the hypo-allergenic brands, as they do not put off any fumes or fogging. Pick them up at the drugstore in the nail polish and emeryboard section.
"Just slow it down. I'll shoot Hitler out the window."
-Professor Farnsworth
Gorilla CA or Mercury Adhesives are the only CA I buy anymore (since I can no longer get the Wave stuff). Better quality and nozzles that don't clog up.
I've never heard of CA breaking down but that sure sounds like what's happened. Get ye to the hardware store and find a bottle of Gorilla Impact Tough formula CA.
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I just do not trust Superglues- they work for a while but can just let go or sheer with applied stress, or jsut when they decide to.
Agreed. There are times I will use it out of desperation but I have absolutely no faith that I won't find the model has fallen apart a few days/weeks/months later.
At least with a styrene glue you can have a little trust that the surface of the two parts have melted and bonded together.
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and only 4 to extend my arm and smack someone in the mouth!
Richard Baker wrote:I jsut do not trust Superglues- they work for a while but can just let go or sheer with applied stress, or jsut when they decide to. For resin kits I use two part epoxy- it is a mess but it does last.
More the reason for rubber impregnated CA. Tougher, stronger, faster... we can rebuild it. *dadadadaaah dadadadadedadadadaaaa bum bumbumbabum*
Here's a trick. Use mechanical supports whenever you can - pin parts, even small parts. Use epoxy putty or adhesive in the fastener joint. Place the parts together and use a tiny amount of CA to lock the joint while the epoxy cures. Best of both worlds!
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Guess I've got the right aura or something, the various glues work just fine for me.
Airdave wrote:You know, there's a smartass in every crowd,
Well, like we say in our family, better to be a smartass than a dumbass.
Even if it does wipe out your chances of winning a Darwin Award.
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Coming in late to the party here, but I've gotta throw in my vote for the Gorilla CA glue. One thing that I absolutely love is the fact that the tip doesn't clog. The bane of my work for some time was messing around with straight pins trying to clear a jam out of the nozzle from a tube of Krazy glue..
I have the same joy with the Loctite CA's - super-thin, thick, black - I've never had a clog in any of them - and some of the bottles I have are running on 2-3 years of usage
Bump one more for Gorilla CA. Picked up a bottle and as soon as I got home, I broke the handle on my favorite coffee mug. Never fear, Gorilla glue is here. That stuff holds tight. I have never had much luck with getting ceramic to hold with regular super glue. So, I feel confident enough to start my first resin model. Tried it on some death star tiles I have been intending to use for a base.
It's easy to use, bonds quickly, but not so quickly that you don't have time to work with it, and, once it grabs, it doesn't let go.
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or have someone do it for you.....
DAANNGGGEEERR ZZOONNEE!!" -- Archer
I've had CA go bad on me many times. Especially the Bob Smith stuff, (That's the "local hobby shop" brand). It's exactly as you describe, they just lose their adhesive properties. Kylwell uses Mercury Adhesives CA, and I like that stuff much better. But my problem is I'm allergic to most super glues, so I can only use the oderless kind. Which means I'm pretty much stuck with Bob Smith, (no pun intended).
To prevent the tip from clogging, I don't use it. I just take the cap off, put a small puddle in an old milk cap, and apply it to the model with micro brushes. You go through micro brushes pretty quick this way, but they're cheap when you buy them in 100 packs.
I only use CA for small resin kits and securing wiring to the inside of a model (something about the reaction between the rubber insulation and the CA makes it stick so well that the rubber fails before the CA does!).
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USS Atlantis wrote:Styrene - Ambroid or Tenax
Resin - Super-glue - but get a good brand, not a nameless or "hobby-shop" branded - I stick with Loctite - they have everything from super-thin to black
What he said. I've had superglue go bad from time to time. As was mentioned I too don't buy big bottles of it anymore.
I use the Lock-tite Control Liquid or Control Gel depending ...
Airdave wrote: After researching it, I think I'm going to give Gorilla Super glue a try. Thanks Kylwell!
I second the use of Gorilla brand impact resistant superglue. I used it for the first time to laminate styrene strips to the rim of my Romulan Bird-Of-Prey build. The strips were rather thick so it took a bit of bit of force to flex them around the curved rim but the Gorilla glue had no problem with letting go. I smeared it on nice and evenly under the strip, held it for about 20-30 seconds and it held like iron. No kicker needed. Great stuff!
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jowman wrote:I use Zap-a-gap all of the time, and the only problem I have had is trying to take something back apart.
That's what I use.
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I sit down to work tonight and my thick super glue has thinned to the consistency of water. It will not adhere to anything. I can't even glue my fingers together!! Zip kicker has no effect on it. Tried shaking it, no dice. Does this sound like a bad batch?
I have nothing but problems with modeling glues. Either the cap clogs or the glue dries up before I can use half of it. I've even tried using a sealed cap to store it, but to no effect. I'm just sick and tired of paying $5 for glue that doesn't work or dries before I can get any use out of it.
What kind of glue do you guys use? I use Tenax on styrene, super glue mainly resin and vinyl.
I buy CA in the three pack of smaller tubes, Super Glue brand at the Dollar Store. Comes in a zip lock bag now for freshness! never buy a big bottle, its a waste.
As far as the CA being water... close the window when it rains?
CA doesn't break down like that, if it does then the brand you use has a suspender in it that will dis-embed leaving the CA inert. This is just really crappy business, making stuff like that- and selling it for a mark up like that!
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Zip kicker has no effect on it. Tried shaking it, no dice. Does this sound like a bad batch?
Never fear, Gorilla glue is here. That stuff holds tight. I have never had much luck with getting ceramic to hold with regular super glue. So, I feel confident enough to start my first resin model. Tried it on some death star tiles I have been intending to use for a base.
