Rattle Can Primers as good as Tamiya?
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Rattle Can Primers as good as Tamiya?
Seeing as how the Tamiya primer hasn't been available in... forever, I need to an equivalent replacement. I loved the Tamiya because the spray was so fine and yet had excellent coverage. I wasn't very impressed by Model Master or Testor's spray primers. Any other suggestions?
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- Joseph Osborn
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Mr Surfacer 1000 and 1200 in a spray is available from several places, including Sprue Brothers for a decent price. It's gray, but still good stuff.
I have a can of white Tamiya still wrapped in plastic; are you sayin' I need to put it on Ebay?
I have a can of white Tamiya still wrapped in plastic; are you sayin' I need to put it on Ebay?
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
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I know you guys across the pond can't get it, but Halford's White and Grey acrylic primers are excellent if you're in the UK. Because they are intended for cars, they are very fine grained, cover well and come in large cans. They are also much, much cheaper than anything intended for modellers. They also do a plastic filler primer that is about as good as Mr Surfacer (except that it's chromate yellow in colour).
"I'd just like to say that building large smooth-skinned models should be avoided at all costs. I now see why people want to stick kit-parts all over their designs as it covers up a lot of problems." - David Sisson
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- Joseph Osborn
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I'll tell you about another favorite primer: Floquil Railroad enamel SP Lettering Gray sprayed through an airbrush. Very little waste compared to a rattle can and the surface is just perfect. I cut the paint with lacquer thinner to give it that extra "bite" into the model's surface.
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
- Glorfindel
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Anyone have problems spraying Krylon gray primer in the rattle can? I have purchased several and most seem not to shoot when the button is depressed. This happens with brand-spanking new cans!! Very frustrating. And its funny because I never had problems with Tamiya sprays before I picked up an Airbrush. I cant even decant these things! Any tips to get these puppies to work besides:
1. returning them
2. shooting them with my neighbors gun
3. driving over them with my SUV
4. mailing them to my x-girlfriend
Suggestions?
1. returning them
2. shooting them with my neighbors gun
3. driving over them with my SUV
4. mailing them to my x-girlfriend
Suggestions?
Buck Laughlin: [after Beatrice the dog jumps up on the show judge] He went for her like she's made outta ham.
~Best in Show, 2000
~Best in Show, 2000
- Joseph Osborn
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Are you clearing the nozzle after using them? Turn the can upside-down and spray until the paint stops and just propellant comes out. You could also try swapping a nozzle from a good can to the can that doesn't work.Glorfindel wrote:Anyone have problems spraying Krylon gray primer in the rattle can? I have purchased several and most seem not to shoot when the button is depressed. This happens with brand-spanking new cans!! Very frustrating. And its funny because I never had problems with Tamiya sprays before I picked up an Airbrush. I cant even decant these things! Any tips to get these puppies to work besides:
1. returning them
2. shooting them with my neighbors gun
3. driving over them with my SUV
4. mailing them to my x-girlfriend
Suggestions?
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
- Beaveranger
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- Glorfindel
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
- Glorfindel
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
- Glorfindel
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
OK this evening I switched the nozzles on two cans ( one that works fine to one that's dead silent) Nothing happened. I should have switched to decaf instead.
Dave that's a great idea....I'll be hitting the auto store on my way to work tomorrow. Thanks for the tip...I'll be showing the Krylon the front door.
Dave that's a great idea....I'll be hitting the auto store on my way to work tomorrow. Thanks for the tip...I'll be showing the Krylon the front door.
Buck Laughlin: [after Beatrice the dog jumps up on the show judge] He went for her like she's made outta ham.
~Best in Show, 2000
~Best in Show, 2000
- Glorfindel
- Posts: 1549
- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
On a side note: I bounced an E-mail off the folks at Krylon this morning explaining my rattle can problems and so far received an auto-response saying I will be notified by somebody, by way of E-mail, within 24 hours. They'll probably gift me a subscription to Field and Stream magazine.
Buck Laughlin: [after Beatrice the dog jumps up on the show judge] He went for her like she's made outta ham.
~Best in Show, 2000
~Best in Show, 2000
- Glorfindel
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- Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 7:00 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY
I picked up a can of Rust-oleum gray automotive sandable primer. The AutoZone I went to did not have the Duplicolor brand primer. The nozzle is a much larger button and had no problems shooting paint. The psi shooting out I think is stronger than the Krylon (when those cans did work) and also is a far darker paint. Coverage was thick on finer details but that is my fault because I did spray too close to the model.
Could I brush lacquer thinner on to the heavily sprayed areas to thin down the thickened areas of primer on detailed spots to help bring out said details? The primer is already dry and my instincts tell me it couldn't hurt.
Could I brush lacquer thinner on to the heavily sprayed areas to thin down the thickened areas of primer on detailed spots to help bring out said details? The primer is already dry and my instincts tell me it couldn't hurt.
Buck Laughlin: [after Beatrice the dog jumps up on the show judge] He went for her like she's made outta ham.
~Best in Show, 2000
~Best in Show, 2000
- Joseph Osborn
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It is possible that your Krylon were from the same batch and were defective, i.e. no gas in the can, just paint. I prefer Dupli-Color paints myself, but I think Krylon's a big enough company to offer you a refund or something.
I wouldn't try putting lacquer thinner on a styrene model to try to remove the excess. That's asking for trouble. Try using denatured alcohol instead; it should cut the paint but leave the plastic unharmed. Bear in mind your plastic may be pitted a little under the thick paint due to the aggressive solvents.
I wouldn't try putting lacquer thinner on a styrene model to try to remove the excess. That's asking for trouble. Try using denatured alcohol instead; it should cut the paint but leave the plastic unharmed. Bear in mind your plastic may be pitted a little under the thick paint due to the aggressive solvents.
<i>Fireball Modelworks</i>
I just picked up the Dupli Color grey primer for my Cricket Phaser as I was going to use automotive lacquer on it. I was quite impressed with the coverage and smoothness of the paint. It dries super fast too. I think I found a new best friend!DaveVan wrote:Dupli-color makes a white, 2 grays, black and brown/red primers. I keep all on hand and the filler primer too. The light gray is the closest to Tamiya. Most auto parts stores and big box stores have them.
I like the Tamiya primer. Never did like the MM in a can though. Always seemed to thick to me. I don't airbrush a lot so can't comment on how it works thru one.
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I've been meaning to pick up some MR Surfacer 1000 spray but I keep putting it off. For a few projects now I've used cheapo ColorPlace primer from WalMart. Dries fast, gray ( very close to the color of FineMolds styrene used on the Falcon and Slave1) and at $1.10 a can I can buy it by the case if I want.
Here's my Slave1 primered with it.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f100/ ... 50c596.jpg
Here's my Slave1 primered with it.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f100/ ... 50c596.jpg