Mr Surfacer

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:02 pm

I use the alcohol on swab technique all the time - particularly in 90-degree joints and tight areas. Be prepared to go through a lot of swabs.

Thomas E. Johnson · Post by **Thomas E. Johnson** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:47 am

So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner?

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Sat Feb 10, 2007 9:53 am

Thomas E. Johnson wrote:So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner?

Yes. I use more like 70% thinner though.

Thomas E. Johnson · Post by **Thomas E. Johnson** » Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:15 pm

Well, I was able to airbrush it thinned 50%/50% using my super high flow nozzle, and got pretty good results.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it more bang for the buck to thin down a bottle of this stuff and airbrush it, than to buy the rattle can stuff? It seems like you get more material to use by thinning the bottle version, than you get in one of the spray cans.

dkeets · Post by **dkeets** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:15 pm

Has anyone used Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer (bottle) and does it compare to Mr. Surfacer ???

I picked up some of this Tamiya stuff at my LHS and have been using it to fill seams and was wondering if anyone has used both and could give me a comparison.

Devin · Post by **Devin** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:34 am

Blappy wrote:
Thomas E. Johnson wrote:So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner?
Yes. I use more like 70% thinner though.

I've found recently that if I go more than 50/50 thinner to surfacer that it goes on translucent and is a good sealer, but it isn't a very good filler. If I'm filling pin holes, etc, and want a good tooth for a coat of paint, I go 2 parts surfacer to 3 parts thinner.

-Devin

apsilon · Post by **apsilon** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:16 pm

I just used Mr Surfacer 1200 in a rattle can to prime my first kit in about 20 years (FM Tie) and all I can say is WOW! I love this stuff. It goes on so well and lays down tight with no loss of detail.

Only complaint is the rattle can over whelmed the little spray booth I made up. Going to have to try air brushing once this rattle can is done.

My only question is, and I'm sorry if it's been covered and I missed it, how long should I wait until I start applying colour coats?

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:18 am

I'm paranoid, and usually wait a day, but I've put colors on within a few hours and not had a problem. But I'd still suggest trying to wait at least a day.

Dan

Romulan Spy · Post by **Romulan Spy** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:23 pm

I too like the rattle cans for filling imperfections in the surfaces of my models. The 1000 goes on thick enough to fill sanding scratches but not so heavy as to fill small details.

cowie165 · Post by **cowie165** » Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:23 am

I just had my first crack at 1200 as a primer, and spiderwebbed the heck out of my model! Argh!

Out came an old toothbrush and cleaned the gunk off. Off to Mr Google for a little more information.

Thanks to this handy thread, I thinned it to 60/40 or so, upped the px to 25psi and away I went. Happy days, and thanks SSM for a cool thread.

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:19 pm

Many apologies. I can't find the thread where I asked this. I have a jar of Mr. Hobby Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer. Burgundy label with gray/white text. I've looked several times. Nowhere does it way what grade/thickness it is. I went ahead and tried using it tonight to fill some hallway sized panel lines on a 1/1400 resin starship. Will it work? Will it require several fillings? Should I have just applied the Testors red putty?

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:39 pm

mburkey wrote:Many apologies. I can't find the thread where I asked this. I have a jar of Mr. Hobby Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer. Burgundy label with gray/white text. I've looked several times. Nowhere does it way what grade/thickness it is. I went ahead and tried using it tonight to fill some hallway sized panel lines on a 1/1400 resin starship. Will it work? Will it require several fillings? Should I have just applied the Testors red putty?

You should have used this

http://www.starshipmodeler.biz/index.cf ... uct_ID=636

Apply carefully with a pointy toothpick, hit it with some accelerator and in 90 seconds you are sanding it smooth. This black stuff has a similar hardness as resins and styrene.

I no longer own any air dry putty in tubes.

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:13 pm

Intriguing profile makes it worth a try, even though I hate superglue. I usually stick my fingers together and the parts never mate.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:24 pm

mburkey wrote:Many apologies. I can't find the thread where I asked this. I have a jar of Mr. Hobby Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer. Burgundy label with gray/white text. I've looked several times. Nowhere does it way what grade/thickness it is. I went ahead and tried using it tonight to fill some hallway sized panel lines on a 1/1400 resin starship. Will it work? Will it require several fillings? Should I have just applied the Testors red putty?

It's about the same as the 1000. You can use it to fill but it'll take a number of applications. I usually prime with the resin primer and then fill with the 500.

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:34 pm

Thanks! Didn't get a fast reply last night, so I went ahead and toothpicked on some of it. Indeed, it took 3 applications before it stopped collapsing into the panel line. Worked great though on pinholes and other imperfections lthat the resin primer rattlecan didn't catch. I'm guessing I don't need to sand down the bumps with any grit larger than #400 or so?

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:04 pm

Apologies for what must be an old topic. Is there some cheaper alternative to the spray can of Mr. Resin Surfacer? It's amazing stuff, but 10 bucks for a few ounces is just outrageous. Are Duplicolor or Plasticote sandable primers the same stuff? I'd like it to preserve detail and go down as smooth as the Gunz product. And I want it in a spray can because I gum up my airbrush enough with regular paint. And it needs to be compatible with resin models. Any other alternatives?

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:52 pm

Alternative? Yes. Replacement? No.

Mr. Resin Primer as you've noticed is amazing stuff...but it is expensive. And in my opinion, worth every penny. I've had pretty good luck with Krylon and Duplicolor for smooth areas, but where there's detail, I pull out the Mr. Surfacer products. Others report better success, but I need all the help I can get.

Things you can try to help out the cheaper products: Put the can in a pan of warm water for a few minutes. This helps to thin out the paint a bit and it flows easier. Don't put it on a stove, microwave, or anything like that.

Shake it a lot. The can. I mean the paint can. Shake it until your arm falls off, use some Aves to re-attach your arm, then shake it some more. The grains in the other primers settle, and you've gotta get them moving. And not in just and up and down motion, but every so often roll it so the ball scrapes the bottom.

Good luck, we're all counting on you!

Dan

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:03 pm

Great. Now all I have to do is figure out which expensive, out-of-production resin kit I want to serve as the test case for Dupli or Plasti. Hmmm, could be that Lunar Models Discovery. Thanks. Assume both Dupli and Plasti are compatible with resin? You weren't explicit.

Jonas Calhoun · Post by **Jonas Calhoun** » Fri Jun 19, 2009 5:42 pm

Make sure the model's clean of mold release too--Mr. Resin seems to have something in it that cuts through some mold release.

And either Duplicolor, Plastikote, etc works for Resin.

Dan

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Sat Jun 20, 2009 1:23 pm

Thanks much. My only concern is some stated thoughts that Dupli or Plasti might hide smaller detail that perhaps the finer grain Gunze would not. In any event, I have 1 more can of Gunze, which should see me through my current project, the Stargazer Orion III.

Darkowski · Post by **Darkowski** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 10:48 pm

I'm really interested in trying out the Mr Surfacer product.... but is it me or everywhere I go on the internet they are all out of stock???

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:27 pm

No idea. Tried Squadron? Tried googling it? Even my local hobby shop has 2-3 flavors on the shelf now.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:43 am

Great Models has some in stock.

Darkowski · Post by **Darkowski** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:30 am

Yup, tried Squadron and they were out of stock too.

I found some at Great Models and ordered the 1200, 1000, and 500.

Thanks Kylwell!

Post by **TER-OR** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:34 pm

I think it's mostly due to a change in shipping regulations - or that's what I'm told. You have to have a license to ship various hazard grades.

Whiteraven_2001 · Post by **Whiteraven_2001** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 6:35 am

I think I know the answer, but I'll ask anyway: anyone tried the spray on vinyl? I'm assuming, from having read to this point, it wouldn't be good.

Joseph C. Brown · Post by **Joseph C. Brown** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 8:39 am

Pull out your spare ME-109, Tiger tank, P-51 - or Kazon Torpedo - that you are never *ever* going to build straight-out-of-the-box, and hit it with the spray on vinyl.

Then, report back to us and deliver the results. I'd like to know, too!

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 3:54 pm

Hi Whiteraven_2001,

I've airbrushed Mr. Surfacer on a vinyl kit. It worked fine. If you're worried test it on the pour stubs.

Mike

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 4:01 pm

Spray on Vinyl vs Mr. Surfacer spray, on vinyl...

Joseph C. Brown · Post by **Joseph C. Brown** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 9:23 pm

Kylwell wrote:Spray on Vinyl vs Mr. Surfacer spray, on vinyl...

That's what I read it as... was I wrong again?