Best filler for resin

mike_espo · Post by **mike_espo** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:35 pm

Hello. I looked through the forum, and just wanted to know what is the best filler material for filling resin pinholes?

I tried white Squadron putty mixed with acetone, CA glue and Mr. Surfacer 500. All have their weaknesses.

Any thoughts or opinions would be most helpful.

thanks

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 12:54 pm

Bondo spot putty.

I also used something from Liquitex that you spread on also. Forget what it is called. Use water to wipe down the excess and then lightly sand smooth.

Stu Pidasso · Post by **Stu Pidasso** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:08 pm

Aves paste!

USSARCADIA · Post by **USSARCADIA** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 2:21 pm

Bondo spot putty, cheap, easy to find.

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 2:34 pm

Do you have a lot of pinholes to fill?

I had a resin figure kit that had a lot of pinholes in one area, I could never get them all filled since they were so small the filler would not go into the holes, plus sanding kept opening up more pinholes. I ended up skinning over the area with filler/primer and snaded it smooth, being careful not to sand through it.

Ken

Mark Yungblut · Post by **Mark Yungblut** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 3:35 pm

If it's tons of pin hole Mr. Surfacer is the best. You can paint it on and it'll fill many of the pinholes

For seam filling I use Aves regular putty. Push the soft putty into the seam and then smooth it with a small flat brush and alcoho.

If you are coming to Wonderfest this year TER-OR, Joe Brown and I will be teaching a class on Sunday all about how to use expoy putty including seam filling.

mike_espo · Post by **mike_espo** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 3:51 pm

Am building the 1/1400 PNT Ennex o won. (NX-01) Great quality kit, but a few pinholes.

Using med CA. I may have to get some more Mr Surfacer 500.

Ziz · Post by **Ziz** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 4:07 pm

I use Squadron Green mixed with Testors Liquid Cement. The trick is in HOW you fill the pinholes and air bubbles. What I do is carve out the upper "skin" of the offending hole until it becomes more of a divot. If you leave it as a bubble under the surface, you have to force putty in until it curves around and fills the bubble. If you carve it out into divot form, now it's the same as filling a seam - no undercut surfaces to worry about.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Thu Apr 28, 2011 6:37 pm

Ok... now that I am home... Liquitex Modeling Paste works wonders on small holes. Wipe off excess with a damp paper towel.

mike_espo · Post by **mike_espo** » Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:36 pm

Thanks for all the replys.

I used CA and am letting it cure. Ill see how it goes.

jasonius · Post by **jasonius** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:20 pm

I know this is a bit late, but I thought I'd add my 2 cents. I used to use resin to fill gaps. I mixed it with microballoons to thicken it up a bit, and used cheap disposable paintbrushes to paint on some surfaces, or toothpicks or just chunks of whatever in smaller applications. It leaves a good sandable surface and is just as hard and sturdy as your actual model. I used to do the same to glue resin pieces together. You have to be really careful about leakage, though, or you'll be doing some extra sanding (or even carving) to try to bring back some lost detail. I did it more with creature/monster figures, though, where shapes were more organic and I wasn't afraid to file away and create my own shapes in the event of a disaster. Now I pin and CA glue, but I imagine I do that mostly because using resin as glue/filler is also a pain in the arse.