Using Clay for Molding?
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- darthviper107
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Using Clay for Molding?
I've got a kit that has a detail that broke off. There are identical details on the piece so I was wondering if it might be OK to use some clay and get an impression of one of the other details and then use that to cast a replacement detail. Would it work to use clay for a temporary mold like that?
The only trick with pulling the clay off will be not distorting it. Beyond that, it should work although you might have to do a little cleanup of the surface depending how porous the clay.
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- Stu Pidasso
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Like Ziz says, watch the distortion when you pull it off. I suggest putting the whole part + clay in the freezer before you do, unless there's an undercut.
So me, trying to be tolerant of everybody's situations, went to a feminist picnic. Things fell apart fairly quickly after nobody made any sandwiches.
- darthviper107
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yeah, there's no undercut, it's just a detail on a surface that's too detailed to rebuild. What clay would be best, would sculpey work?
I haven't gotten any resin yet, this is on a kit for the future so it's not something I'll be doing for a bit. What's a good resin for just a small detail part Smoothcast 300?
I haven't gotten any resin yet, this is on a kit for the future so it's not something I'll be doing for a bit. What's a good resin for just a small detail part Smoothcast 300?
- Stu Pidasso
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I don't want to prevent you from learning a new method of modeling, but if you only have a small part, no RTV or resin, and only need 1 or 2 casts, PM me, I'll make a copy or 2 for you no problem. If you would like to try it yourself, you can send me a pic, and I'll be glad to give you some pointers or advice. Sometimes, it's just too expensive to learn something new.
So me, trying to be tolerant of everybody's situations, went to a feminist picnic. Things fell apart fairly quickly after nobody made any sandwiches.
- darthviper107
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- darthviper107
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- Stu Pidasso
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- darthviper107
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- Stu Pidasso
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As a matter of fact, I do have that kit. Would you like me to send the part, or do you want to try it yourself? Let me know, and if you do, PMme your address.
So me, trying to be tolerant of everybody's situations, went to a feminist picnic. Things fell apart fairly quickly after nobody made any sandwiches.
- darthviper107
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- AbsoluteSciFi
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Go to the hardware store, get a tube of 100% silicone. Apply a mold release to the area. Take the silicone and brush it on carefully. Let it dry then apply another much thicker coat and press a quarter inch piece of plywood into it, equal to the area's size that you are covering. Let it set up and pull the whole thing off, and there is your mold. Works great for any detailing along a flat surface.darthviper107 wrote:yeah, there's no undercut, it's just a detail on a surface that's too detailed to rebuild. What clay would be best, would sculpey work?
I haven't gotten any resin yet, this is on a kit for the future so it's not something I'll be doing for a bit. What's a good resin for just a small detail part Smoothcast 300?
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- Stu Pidasso
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So I open the box to my Anigrand SD, find the piece, and guess what? I have the same exact chip!!!
Pic 1
But I did a quick mold of the surrounding ones, and I got a few good casts:
pic 2
So they'll be on their way to you tomorrow, I missed the mail lady today.
Pic 1
But I did a quick mold of the surrounding ones, and I got a few good casts:
pic 2
So they'll be on their way to you tomorrow, I missed the mail lady today.
So me, trying to be tolerant of everybody's situations, went to a feminist picnic. Things fell apart fairly quickly after nobody made any sandwiches.
A better way I've found is to mix the silicone with a dab of artist's acrylic paint and then gob it on. It's a lot faster and the moisture in the paint makes the silicone set up. (Normally a big wad of silicone will never cure in the center.)AbsoluteSciFi wrote:Go to the hardware store, get a tube of 100% silicone. Apply a mold release to the area. Take the silicone and brush it on carefully. Let it dry then apply another much thicker coat and press a quarter inch piece of plywood into it, equal to the area's size that you are covering. Let it set up and pull the whole thing off, and there is your mold. Works great for any detailing along a flat surface.
You could still do a thin layer initially to make sure you get it in all the details, but a nice big chunk of it is a lot more durable. That kind of silicone is pretty flimsy to begin with.
-Rog
- darthviper107
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Got the detail casting put in. Since the bottom was cast as well I ended up just cutting out that section and then fitting the replacement in. There's a bit more cleanup to do, but once it's painted it shouldn't be noticeable.
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/6017/pic0146t.jpg
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/6017/pic0146t.jpg
- Stu Pidasso
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AH! I lost the bet...
I bet myself that you would cut out the whole "section" I cast along the "trench" line, and just replace the whole section. Glad to see you got that little fiddly bit off. Cool!
I bet myself that you would cut out the whole "section" I cast along the "trench" line, and just replace the whole section. Glad to see you got that little fiddly bit off. Cool!
So me, trying to be tolerant of everybody's situations, went to a feminist picnic. Things fell apart fairly quickly after nobody made any sandwiches.
- darthviper107
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