I'm brand new to lighting models, but have a decent background in electronics, so I know what I'm doing (Plus, I've extensively scoured these forums). I just have a few questions before I dive in.
1) When it comes to fiber optics, what is a pretty general, all-purpose diameter filament?
2) What AWG wire is recommended for lighting models?
3) Dremel drill bit sizes for knocking out windows on Trek-esque models?
4) In what situations are "Ultra-Bright" LEDs too bright, if any?
5) In what situations would Battery Power be more suitable than a wall transformer?
If it helps to answer any of the questions, I will be working mostly with Trek models, and maybe the occasional BSG or Babylon 5 thrown in.
Thanks in advance,
Gabe
Before I begin...
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Re: Before I begin...
It depends entirely on what model you're building. Large fibers would work well for the windows on the AMT Romulan Bird of Prey, but not for the windows on the 1:2500 Enterprise E. Just buy a sampling of as many sizes as you can, then if you see a size that works for the model you're building, buy a few dozen feet of it.Gabesauce wrote:1) When it comes to fiber optics, what is a pretty general, all-purpose diameter filament?
Again, whatever works. If 18 guage is too big, try a smaller size. Most lighting circuits don't carry enough amperage to worry about wire guages.Gabesauce wrote:2) What AWG wire is recommended for lighting models?
Skip the Dremel and buy a pin vise. It works much better than a rotary tool for doing hundreds of windows.Gabesauce wrote:3) Dremel drill bit sizes for knocking out windows on Trek-esque models?
Definitely windows; ultrabrights in a window make the interior of a starship look like a paint booth, and I don't live in a paint booth. Also, warp engines look better with regular LEDs. In fact, I'd limit ultrabrights to things like formation lights, strobes, headlights, and other instances where a lot of light is desireable.Gabesauce wrote:4) In what situations are "Ultra-Bright" LEDs too bright, if any?
I find that batteries only work well when they're a part of the base, and then only for shows where there's not a guaranteed source of electrical power. Besides that, I also prefer batteries if my model is going on a shelf and I don't want a bunch of power cords cluttering it up.Gabesauce wrote:5) In what situations would Battery Power be more suitable than a wall transformer?
If a redhead works at a bakery, does that make him a gingerbread man?
Ponies defeat a Star Trek villain? Give them a Star Wars award ceremony!
Ponies defeat a Star Trek villain? Give them a Star Wars award ceremony!
Re: Before I begin...
After much searching for a source for dental burs, I finally ran across this site:Gabesauce wrote: 3) Dremel drill bit sizes for knocking out windows on Trek-esque models?
http://www.profitablehobbiesstore.com/h ... burs-1/16/
I bought the #1/2, #1/4, and #1/8
A pin vice is great for drilling out windows, but with rectangular and long oval windows, it helps to have a way of knocking out the bits of plastic in between your holes.
Hope this helps,
-Tchail
“In the beginning the universe was created. This made a lot of people angry, and has generally been regarded as a bad move." Episode 5, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy