Decal Issues
Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators
Decal Issues
I applied the decals for my AMT Runabout and they came out a bit frosted. They are not bad, but noticable if you look close. I applied Future before and after applying them, followed by a dull coat. Any ideas why they look frosted?
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By frosted I assume you're referring to silvering. This is a result of air pockets between the surface of the model and the underside of the decal.
There's two fixes for decals which are already down...
The first is to make thin, very light-pressure slices in the decal and apply some decal setting solution to the decal. The solution will permeate the decal through the slices and soften the decal, causing it to settle down onto the surface and reduce or eliminate the air pockets.
The other method is to trim away the silvered clear portion of the decal as best you can, then apply Future to the edges of the trimmed decal. The Future will wick under the decal and fill in any air pockets. I don't recommend using Future if you slice the decal, as its too dense to permeate the decal through the slices.
When I say light pressure, I mean light pressure. Don't press so hard as to scribe the paint under the decal.
And yes, even with the model Dull-coted, you can still do this. Regardless, you'll probably need to apply another light coat once you're done, definitely if you trim and seal the edges with Future.
In the future, you might wanna try adding some white glue to your decal water. The glues used on decals vary from 'gone in 20 seconds' to 'run under hot water for 3 hours'. White glue mixed with the decal water will add a thin coat of glue to the underside, help with adhesion, and since it dries clear, helps to reduce or eliminate silvering. I use it on all my decals and rarely get silvering.
J
There's two fixes for decals which are already down...
The first is to make thin, very light-pressure slices in the decal and apply some decal setting solution to the decal. The solution will permeate the decal through the slices and soften the decal, causing it to settle down onto the surface and reduce or eliminate the air pockets.
The other method is to trim away the silvered clear portion of the decal as best you can, then apply Future to the edges of the trimmed decal. The Future will wick under the decal and fill in any air pockets. I don't recommend using Future if you slice the decal, as its too dense to permeate the decal through the slices.
When I say light pressure, I mean light pressure. Don't press so hard as to scribe the paint under the decal.
And yes, even with the model Dull-coted, you can still do this. Regardless, you'll probably need to apply another light coat once you're done, definitely if you trim and seal the edges with Future.
In the future, you might wanna try adding some white glue to your decal water. The glues used on decals vary from 'gone in 20 seconds' to 'run under hot water for 3 hours'. White glue mixed with the decal water will add a thin coat of glue to the underside, help with adhesion, and since it dries clear, helps to reduce or eliminate silvering. I use it on all my decals and rarely get silvering.
J
- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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How much white glue is just right ? a drop or 2 ? I have some old decals that look ok but since they are from 1983 you never know and there are NO replacements. I used 2 light coats of liquid decal film over them on the decal sheet and keep them in a dry dark drawer until i get ready to use them. They will go on a smooth glossy surface so not sure if decal solution will be needed. not sure how decal set will react with a little white glue in the water.
BERT
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
MODEL MAKER
IF MY SIGNAL IS BLINKING, I AM NOT ASKING PERMISSION
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