A big scratch build space carrier

Jared Bishop · Post by **Jared Bishop** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 2:27 pm

I've had this idea in my head for a while and decided to mock up a cardboard model to rough out a few idea before going to plastic. So this is a work in progress cardboard model is a 1/1 scale of the plastic model I will construct. It's 1 meter long. I think the model will be 1/700 scale or maybe 1/1400 i don't know.

http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ier_01.jpg
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ier_02.jpg
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ier_03.jpg
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ier_04.jpg
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ier_05.jpg

AbsoluteSciFi · Post by **AbsoluteSciFi** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 5:01 pm

Very nice mock up, but I might impart a few things I learned when I went from paper-based modeling to plastic/multimedia modeling.

First, the plastic, or lexan sheets, or extruded PVC, all has its own considerations for joining seams, and attaching. Glues, epoxies, welding solvents, cements... all have more or less success when joining surfaces.

Other methods for structural attachments should also be considered, such as bolts, biscuits, internal buttressing, blah blah blah... just make sure the damn thing doesn't fall apart before you greeblize it to death.

I noticed all the differently angled panels, and how they might be joined together; it occurred to me that this is why I mention all the methodology.

southwestforests · Post by **southwestforests** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 8:05 pm

Jared Bishop wrote:I think the model will be 1/700 scale or maybe 1/1400 i don't know.

If you use 1/700 there are plastic model planes (a number molded in clear) for US, Soviet, other, carriers and other model ship aftermarket part sets in both plastic and etched metal, even with figures.
Go to Squadron Mail Order hobby Shop at squadron.com and search 1/700 scale. A company named Trumpeter names a lot of modern jets which could be tweaked into anime type stuff.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Fri Aug 26, 2011 11:28 pm

Nice shapes there. It ought to look really good once you start the plastic version and add a ton of details.

Jared Bishop · Post by **Jared Bishop** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:55 pm

Thanks for the input. I started working on blocking in the super structure. The cardboard mock up gave me a good feel for the rough size and shape of things. I never thought I'd have so many problems keeping things square. I need to find some mini tools. I thing a lot of the model I'll build a rough plastic structure and cover it with automotive bondo to mold into just the right shape.

I am looking at picking up some 1/700 scale aircraft to modify into small space fighters. I had to scratch build a hanger deck for my 1/350 Tamiya Enterprise so I'll do the same thing with this model.

I want to light up the whole kit with fiber optic lights. I'll also want to build it so the super structure, top large hull, engine bay and hanger bay can be removed. I figure I'll start with roughing out all the parts and over time going back to improve sections. I'll want to have access to all the parts over time.

I'm going to suspend the ship from 3 fishing lines so I can position the ship at interesting angles when on display. There will be a some brass tubing running the length of the ship for support.

For inspiration I'm drawing from my Dad's 1/200 Yamato kit by Nichimo and on e-bay I found these Head Gundam Resin Model kits that have very interesting shapes. The overall shape of this ship is from the shield of Gundam Unicorn.

Jared Bishop · Post by **Jared Bishop** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:56 pm

Here are a few more images of the card board model showing the side hanger bay:

http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... /photo.jpg
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... hoto-1.jpg

Here is the start of the tower:

http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... hoto-2.jpg

This is the where I got the design of the overall shape:
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... G_8378.jpg

I like this ship how it has large shapes that have small seams with lots of little complex shapes and lights. I'm going to try to incorporate that style into my design.
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... est_17.jpg

kerick · Post by **kerick** » Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:00 pm

One thing I have learned is plan your lighting as carefully as you plan the structure, or even more so. I kept thinking of more lights to add which would have been much easier to run in the beginning of the construction. Perhaps running tubes as conduits instesd of fishing wires and FO through the model later. If you try that make your conduits bigger than you think you need.

I like your overall ship design. This will be fun to watch!

ajmadison · Post by **ajmadison** » Thu Sep 01, 2011 3:30 pm

Now that I'm thinking about it. If you're building this thing big, think about building it with the display stand mount inside it from day one. Some threaded object mounted directly to the main spine of the model.

Another idea to think about, is where possible scratch build separate sub-assemblies as if they were just like an injected kit.

For example:

http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k170/ ... t=0021.jpg

is the upper hull of a Star Trek project. It is built as a standalone unit that can be assembled to a lower hull half:

http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k170/ ... t=0030.jpg

In reflection, I should have made more of the model where all enclosed sub-assemblies are composed of two halves that can be joined together during final assembly.

In this case, I was using exiting kit parts to facilitate making separate halves, but on other full scratchbuilds, and the way I build, I usually start with a profile part and attach bulkheads and frames to it. Instead of one profile part, try starting with two. Or some variation on this theme, there each sub-assmbly is a self contained unit. With some experience, you'll get good at making scratchbuild locating pins or splines and their matching holes or slots.

Thom · Post by **Thom** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:41 am

[quote="Jared Bishop"]

This is the where I got the design of the overall shape:
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... G_8378.jpg

I thought that had the shape of a futuristic shield!! And if you're looking for a name, the Shield would be a pretty good one for a carrier.

I like the design and your approach and can't wait to see more in plastic.

Jared Bishop · Post by **Jared Bishop** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:39 am

Thom · Post by **Thom** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:27 pm

I like Version 2 a lot better. Version 1 had too much going on, although height isn't a bad thing for effect. Perhaps more a squat tower rising up just a little above that?

Either way, nice work.

ajmadison · Post by **ajmadison** » Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:06 pm

I agree, I think version 2, being sleeker looks cooler. But you have the right idea. Before you are fully committed, play with pieces & parts, then build.

However, I've also prototyped with sheet styrene. Though it helps when the sub-assemblies are reasonably (all dimensions approximately 6" or smaller) sized. I can build a small box, or polygonal prism and then make adjustments. For example, I was making a bridge for a cargo ship of my own design, and after making the initial shape, which I wasn't satisfied with, I was able to cut the corner off a section where two facets met, and put on a bevel. And I was able to build the box, and add the bevel in about 20 minutes. This is not so much a boast, as that don't be afraid to build in sheet styrene, then experiment with what you have, and not make some huge time & material commitment. (Especially if you build with For Sale signs, as another contributor on S-M initially suggested years ago.)

kerick · Post by **kerick** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 12:16 am

#2 gets my vote also. #1 was a little too busy. The overall shape is looking great. I know you're not anywhere near the greeblie stage but I would suggest keeping some areas clear so you don't lose the sleek look you have going. You could try creating visual interest on open flat surfaces with a few panel lines and painted panels. Some builders do amazing work on natural metal aircraft models with different shades of metalizer. Just my $0.02.
Great road you're on, keep us posted.

southwestforests · Post by **southwestforests** » Thu Sep 08, 2011 12:25 pm

A third vote for two.

Jared Bishop · Post by **Jared Bishop** » Fri Sep 09, 2011 2:47 pm

Thanks all. I've been splitting my time working on this and a 1/1 scale Toyota Sienna. No updates yet but I've been thinking a lot about what to do next. I will be going for the #2 lower profile look. I want to keep large areas smooth and free of greeblie. The large panel are not as smooth as I'd like I'll have to figure out what to do about it. The overall design will have large smooth areas and reveal lots of detail in between panel sections. So I may cut into a few section.

Jared Bishop · Post by **Jared Bishop** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 3:40 pm

I've been doing a lot of drawing, thinking and mocking up some cardboard models. Here is what I've got so far.

Drawings:
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... tom_01.png
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ger_01.png
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ger_02.png
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... top_01.png

Cardboard Model
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... top_02.png
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... tom_02.png

Plastic Model Parts

This is the top of the hanger which I'm going to detail the heck out of.
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ger_03.png

This is the power core that will house the led lights. I was at Home Depot and though "yeah that's work". I will also be the main support that all the sections of the model will tie into.
http://www.bishopart.com/wp-content/upl ... ore_01.png

Thom · Post by **Thom** » Tue Oct 11, 2011 5:49 pm

Awesome planning. I'm still hyped to see more, and can't wait until the styrene starts to fly.

Jared Bishop · Post by **Jared Bishop** » Wed Oct 12, 2011 11:46 am

I've decided that my ship will be 1:2200 scale. That would put the real ship at 2,006 m.

The model will be approximately
912.224 mm long
232.061 mm wide
116.030 mm high

Still trying to think of a name and ship number.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Wed Oct 12, 2011 9:17 pm

Call it The Rusty Fork of the Inquisitor, registry number 332.

kerick · Post by **kerick** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:11 pm

Any progress on the "Shield" lately? You are off to a good start.

publiusr · Post by **publiusr** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:47 pm

Also like the flatter version--makes it look even larger. The Prommie was too tall in SG1, thus their Daedalus...

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A big scratch build space carrier

A big scratch build space carrier

Re: A big scratch build space carrier

A quick update

Still Going

I've settled on a scale