Paint sandwiching - bad idea?

Kekker · Post by **Kekker** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:52 pm

So I have this model that was primed with Tamiyas white primer. Lovely stuff - smooth, real white, thin. Over that I painted certain areas with MM enamels. These have been allowed to dry for a few days now.

I need to tone down the enamels (originally planned that way), and I was wondering if I should use the Tamiya spray bomb or mix up some MM gloss white. I need a nice smooth surface for decaling.

So will the sandwich T/MM/T cause the dreaded crackling? I'm hoping not, 'cause I like the Tamiya, and it goes on translucently enough to get the effect I'm after.

Kev

Ziz · Post by **Ziz** » Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:45 pm

I haven't tried it but people have said that as long as the MM are totally cured you shouldn't have a problem. I think crackling comes in when you're in a rush and apply one over the other too soon.

Kekker · Post by **Kekker** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:58 pm

OK - gave it a test shot in a small area and all looks good!

This will tone down the greys and give the effect I was looking for! Sweet....

Kev
(Orion paint job - shots to follow...)

prisoner_1079 · Post by **prisoner_1079** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 1:09 am

how long does it take to fully cure? 2 days?

Harry Joy · Post by **Harry Joy** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 2:14 am

Kekker wrote:OK - gave it a test shot in a small area and all looks good!

This will tone down the greys and give the effect I was looking for! Sweet....

Kev
(Orion paint job - shots to follow...)

You should be good then. The Tamiya sprays dry almost instantly. They cure in only slightly more time. Like really danged fast. I used them exclusively for years, nothing but Tamiya spray bombs.

Model Master enamels are a funny beast though. You say you've let them cure for days and that you've only painted portions in the enamels. Further, you've tested them. This is all good. Go with what you see in front of you - you know particulars we aren't privy to, such as where you are painting, temps, humidity, precisely how many days, and so on. But you are good to be cautious. Enamels are a PITA to me, and I rarely touch them anymore. Nothing to do with environmental fears or what, I just can't deal with them only being cured partially, incompletely, sorta kinda cured, right when it matters most anymore. Usually I find this out seconds too late.

Kekker · Post by **Kekker** » Thu Oct 13, 2011 6:02 pm

It worked out just fine - will post to the gallery when completely done. My only complaint is that two of the three greys are just a teensy bit too close in tint level. The warm and the neutral greys are not different enough unless you look really close.

The Tamiya white overcoat gave it a nice smooth finish. I used 50/50 Future and water as a decal set and they sucked right down.

Kev

dizzyfugu · Post by **dizzyfugu** » Fri Oct 14, 2011 8:38 am

The standard MM enamels should be no trouble, they are durable and can be safely painted over. I just found some of the authentic color range, esp. the semi-matte RLM tones, to be very hard to handle. They have a weird pigmentation - they are thin and offera perfect base for decals, but they do not cover well. And, most troublesome, they need to dry for days and are prone to dissolve under little thinner or nitrous-based varnish application.