Order of Operations

nkuzmik · Post by **nkuzmik** » Wed Oct 26, 2011 9:48 am

Can anyone please double check my thinking insofar as the order in which I plan to apply various layers and techniques?

Assemble
Modify(fill, sand, cut, etc)
Prime
Base Coat
Gloss
Decals
Decal sealer
Wash
Drybrush

Am I cruising for trouble or am I in good shape?
I don't recall the brand of primer but I'm spraying Citadel acrylics, my gloss coat would a Tamiya clear spray can, wash would be more Citadel acrylics cut 1:10 or more with 90% isopropol alcohol, and the dry brushing would be even more Citadel acrylics. Mostly silver to imply scratches and maybe a highlight color of the base coat along some edges.

Thanks

Ace Airspeed · Post by **Ace Airspeed** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:55 am

In general, that's pretty much the flow of operations.

What are you building?

nkuzmik · Post by **nkuzmik** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:07 pm

I'm (re)building a Gundam Master Grade Infinite Justice kit.

I'm cutting off a few unwanted features, adding a few others, new paint job and some custom decals.

Ace Airspeed · Post by **Ace Airspeed** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:36 am

Your plan looks sound. Have you used this wash technique before? If so, what sort of wash are you doing? Overall, pin?

I've been using MIG washes for overall coverage lately and they look great. I like oils for pin washes, but I just don't like the drying time involved - I don't have any liquin oils.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 10:38 pm

Your list is pretty similar to mine. After base coat I'll put down several effects coats. Then after decals I go with another clear gloss coat. You wrote decal sealer, which I guess is the same thing. Maybe some more effects coats after that. Then washes, all kinds of washes, followed by another sealing coat. Then dust, drybrushing, and tinted clear flat.

nkuzmik · Post by **nkuzmik** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 9:10 am

Well, this project got pushed back a while since I broke snapped a ball from a ball and socket joint off of its stem, attempting to remove said ball from the aforementioned socket. And I still have to get the other side taken apart too.

Anybody know someone willing to sell or trade parts to a Master Grade Infinite Justice Kit?

Ace Airspeed: I've used that wash technique on an unpainted kit and I've tested it on some spare parts, with good results. The trick seems to be to apply wash to a piece, move to the next piece. Once the wash is on the second piece, go back to the first with a q-tip to wipe the excess.

Mr. Badwrench: I think I'm a few stages of evolution and maybe an act of divine providence before I have that many steps. What exactly do you mean by "effects coats?"

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Sun Nov 13, 2011 4:48 pm

nkuzmik wrote:What exactly do you mean by "effects coats?"

Sometimes I'll put on a clear satin coat, tinted with oil paints. Just dip a microbrush in a tube of oil paint, white or green or brown, whatever you need to tint the model with, and swirl it around in an airbrush cup with a few drops of clear. It'll turn the clear a muddy color, but will be very transparent when it goes down. I do this with multiple colors, dusty colors toward the bottom, blues and whites toward the top to represent sun fading. It ties the decals into the paint job better, making them look like they faded and weathered along with the rest of the vehicle. You can see it on the big roundel decal here. I chose this picture because I really over did it here, but it is easy to see.