How to do a Proper "Pop-out" Wash?

[Cenebar]

Sorry for asking this question again...

I've Vallejos, enamels, artist acrylics, Windsor and Newton in both acrylic and oil mediums, and Testors and Tamiya.

What I normally use is a "black wash" of Vallejos, but that dries to dull pencil lead not much different from the Vallejo black on the vehicle, not the semi-glossy charcoal lines I want to see. Also the "black wash" just makes the vehicle look dirty...nothing pops out. Some say to use drying base retarder for Vallejos to avoid the "puddling" of the wash, which I've experienced many times before.

Some say only enamels and oils work best with washes due to viscosity and color.

Instead of a "dirtying wash," which I'm good at doing, I want a wash that makes the detail pop out without dirtying the whole vehicle. So what paints and mediums should I use?

Any help appreciated...I want to get this done correctly now without a dozen choices.

Thanks.

[Dukat, S.G.]

Cenebar,

The best wash I've found that meets your criteria is Future mixed with either water colors or inks. It's a pretty easy way to darken edges and recessed areas while keeping everything else clean.

I can't really recommend specific Future to water color or ink ratios; you might take a piece of scrap and try playing around with various amounts to get the right look.

Let me know if that's any help. I've used it to great effect many times. One thing you might want to watch out for is your dull coating. In my experience, if the Future is just the least bit too thick in a recessed area, lacquer clear coats will make that thickly-applied Future into something that looks like tiny crystals.

There's also Games Workshop's Citadel ink line. Those things are pretty amazing:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catal ... GameStyle=

The really incredible thing about them is you can put coats of different colors on an area, and the green, brown, red underneath will still be visible. They flow well and can be cleaned up with glass cleaner. The only thing you might want to avoid is letting it pool. It'll turn into a gooey mess!

[tonyG2]

Another way - assuming you want accenuate lines - is to use the Gundam fine point markers. Just draw within the panel lines and clean any overspil with a wipe of alcohol on a q-tip.

[Kylwell]

oil pin wash is what you want. Tiny bit of lamp black in turpenoid (I use odorless turnpenoid) about 1:80. Small brush, apply to panel lines & corers, letting the capillary action draw the mixture in. Let dry a day and remove any excess with some turpenoid & a q-tip.

[Cenebar]

Thanks for the tips, guys.

I often use a brush and paint over everything, letting the paint settle in the nooks and crannies for my wash. This doesn't work well with Vallejos as Vallejos puddle all over the place.

I know and have used Gundam markers. They're OK for Gundams with their thick indented panel lines...not so with some of the Gundam vehicles and their Extra Fine lines.

Would the Future wash produce a clear smooth streak around the panel line like clear silicone? That's what I don't need with some of these washes. I achieved that once using a W&N oil wash...got clear smooth lines where I painted over the seams. I tried to wipe that away and kind of smeared the oils across the surface so then I had to W&N wash the entire model which resulted in a semi-glossy finish . Probably a mistake in doing that...

[Dukat, S.G.]

Cenebar,

About all I can say is that I used the Future method to pick out the panel lines (and actually went on to weather) this Adv. Set KBoP I went nuts on several years ago:

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1094/512 ... 3184_b.jpg

I don't think you'd have the clear smooth streak problem, if I'm sure I know what you mean. (I'm pretty sure I do. I used a product called Detail-It that was similar to an acrylic wash. It DID leave ugly "halos" around the darkened areas.

But really, I'm with Kylwell: pin washes with a decent quality artist oil -- and small brush! -- is very hard to beat. I find Testor's clear coats to be adequate protection against those unless you really get vigorous wiping with Turpenoid or mineral spirits.

[Cenebar]

Nice Klingon BoP! The wash really brings out those panel lines!

Thanks for the advice, guys!

[Ant]

I've just started using this stuff http://www.florymodels.co.uk/weathering-wash/ It's like the oil washes but totally water soluble. Great stuff!

[TER-OR]

Ink in future is essentially a glaze. Use it in detailed areas and it will sink into recesses. It's fantastic. It's great to grime up areas like gear bays etc. because it spreads evenly or recesses with gravity creating shadow effects.

It's not good as a wash, because that Future doesn't wipe away.

I use transparent watercolors in water with Liquitex Flow-aid and Slo-Dri. Remove excess with a slightly damp sponge brush or Q-tip.

Here's a step most people skip: Seal the washes with another Future coat. They'll darken down and match the sheen of the model around it. When you dullcoat the model those likes will look much better. Same with decals, they'll disappear much more readily with a Future seal.


Also, lose the black. I use Neutral Gray or Payne's Gray for these washes. Tint it with base color if you're working on light tones and use browns on subjects more than blacks. Save the black for the really grimy areas like hinges where oil and dust mix.

The above applies to oil washes, though I don't use them often anymore.

[Cenebar]

Terry, thanks. Your advice on Future washes makes sense. One surely wants to wipe away the wash!

[Dukat, S.G.]

I've just started using this stuff http://www.florymodels.co.uk/weathering-wash/ It's like the oil washes but totally water soluble. Great stuff!

I ordered those and like them a lot. Great product.

I'm also a fan of Future glazes/washes, but I take great pains to not let that run into very tight corners or thin recessed areas; when Dullcoted, the lacquer makes overly-thick Future look brittle, almost like crystal. (That wouldn't be a problem if I could find a great acrylic flat spray, but I've yet to really discover one.)