Mr Surfacer

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Mar 17, 2011 9:35 pm

I dunno, I though the same ting as you

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Fri Mar 18, 2011 8:22 am

Joseph C. Brown wrote:
Kylwell wrote:Spray on Vinyl vs Mr. Surfacer spray, on vinyl...

That's what I read it as... was I wrong again?

The PDF from the website......

http://www.rustoleumibg.com/images/tds/ ... 0Final.pdf

"A permanent, flexible coating to restore the color on vinyl, simulated leather and some fabrics."

Interesting!

Whiteraven_2001 · Post by **Whiteraven_2001** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:42 pm

Wug wrote:Hi Whiteraven_2001,

I've airbrushed Mr. Surfacer on a vinyl kit. It worked fine. If you're worried test it on the pour stubs.

Mike

Why is it I never think of spraying the trimmed-off bits?

Thanks!

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:55 pm

Blappy wrote:
Thomas E. Johnson wrote:So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner?
Yes. I use more like 70% thinner though.

Wow, that's thin! I've been toying around with the idea of shooting Mr. Surfacer for priming but I never thought of thinning it down so much. I mean it makes sense because it dries up so fast and using the airbrush, well you can get a nice light coat of primer rather than the heavy thickness of a rattlecan.

AbsoluteSciFi · Post by **AbsoluteSciFi** » Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:40 am

macfrank wrote:Mr. Surfacer is actually a car paint primer; David Meriman thinks that an equivalent is Lucite 131S primer (or its equivalent). If you need a lot, this is by far the cheapest route.

If you don't want to go to a car paint/refinishing store, you can get it from Squadron, or Megahobby.

Frank

It is true that MOST of the hobby industry paint is formulated directly from automobile industry paints, you really don't think that someone spent all that money in research to corner 15% of a market that is less than 3% of the population do you?

After working Maaco, I can see how nearly all of the paints used to put on cars are far better than the crap LHS's dole out by the micro-liter... for 600% the cost!

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 8:46 pm

Mr.Surfacer 1000 & 1200

This is like an amazing primer. It goes on smooth and can give you a very good indicaton of any imperfections on your model that needs fixing before final paint.

Again when you are airbrushing this you need to thin it a lot for best results. I thin it about 70% thinner to 30% primer.

I think this has been covered before but when cleaning out your AB after shooting Mr. Surfacer should straight Lacquer Thinner be used? Is there an alternative like Denatured Alcohol?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:55 pm

Glorfindel wrote:
Mr.Surfacer 1000 & 1200

This is like an amazing primer. It goes on smooth and can give you a very good indicaton of any imperfections on your model that needs fixing before final paint.

Again when you are airbrushing this you need to thin it a lot for best results. I thin it about 70% thinner to 30% primer.
I think this has been covered before but when cleaning out your AB after shooting Mr. Surfacer should straight Lacquer Thinner be used? Is there an alternative like Denatured Alcohol?

I use straight lacquer thinner. It's the only way to be sure.

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:19 pm

If you airbrush Mr. Surfacer thinned with lacquer thinner, it's no better than any other good primer.

If you thin Mr. Surfacer with Mr. Thinner it will not etch plastic and cause ghosting. This makes it better than other primers.

I've never tried it myself but a dealer who sells it says he thins it with 99% isopropyl alcohol. This is not denatured alcohol. It's like rubbing alcohol with almost no water in it. Find it at Meijer.

Mike

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:30 pm

Wug wrote:If you airbrush Mr. Surfacer thinned with lacquer thinner, it's no better than any other good primer.

If you thin Mr. Surfacer with Mr. Thinner it will not etch plastic and cause ghosting. This makes it better than other primers.

I've never tried it myself but a dealer who sells it says he thins it with 99% isopropyl alcohol. This is not denatured alcohol. It's like rubbing alcohol with almost no water in it. Find it at Meijer.

Mike

er... Mr. Thinner is lacquer thinner. Mr Color Leveling Thinner is lacquer thinner with some magic something that makes things flatten out like nothing I've ever used.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:55 am

I think it's lacquer thinner and bacon grease. 'Cos you know, everything is better when it's cooked in bacon grease.

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:24 pm

Yummm....bacon!

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:47 am

Mr.Surfacer 1000 & 1200

This is like an amazing primer. It goes on smooth and can give you a very good indicaton of any imperfections on your model that needs fixing before final paint.

Again when you are airbrushing this you need to thin it a lot for best results. I thin it about 70% thinner to 30% primer. I know this sounds like a lot but it will give you a very smooth almost mirror like finish and show any imperfections. You can spray this on pretty wet but be careful of runs. I have found though that even minor runs dissapear once it has dried. I have also noticed details that seem lost when the primer is wet will "reappear" once it has dried.

So I just quoted Blappy. I thinned Mr. Surfacer 1200 about 70% with lacquer thinner and AB it on the back end of an A-10 Thunderbolt (I know it's aircraft not Sci-Fi) because I stupidly used a spray can of Duplicolor sandable primer on the front end. The difference is amazing. I've lost so much detail, panel lines and rivets, spraying primer from a can that it's astonishing. On the tail end AB with Mr. Surfacer the details remained crisp and sharp. So now I have lost detail in the front end of the hog which I am not going to fight to get back. I'll chalk it up to a learning experience and use it as pure practice.
I think I'll be AB Mr. Surfacer as my primer coat on all builds moving forward. Thanks gentlemen for your input and knowledge on this seemingly seldom used process.

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 10:51 am

I also sprayed straight lacquer thinner through my AB to clean it out and it shot out great. Unscrewed the tip and cleaned off the needle real fast and the whole process was much easier then I anticipated.
Thanks again boys.

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 12:11 am

I've also successfully airbrushed Mr. Surfacer 500. You have to thin it way down, like 70% lacquer thinner, (or Mr. Color levelling thinner). But it works in a pinch. (It was 2:00am, I was all out of Mr. 1200).

kryptosdaddy · Post by **kryptosdaddy** » Sun Mar 04, 2012 9:23 am

Glorfindel wrote:
Mr.Surfacer 1000 & 1200

This is like an amazing primer. It goes on smooth and can give you a very good indicaton of any imperfections on your model that needs fixing before final paint.

Again when you are airbrushing this you need to thin it a lot for best results. I thin it about 70% thinner to 30% primer.
I think this has been covered before but when cleaning out your AB after shooting Mr. Surfacer should straight Lacquer Thinner be used? Is there an alternative like Denatured Alcohol?

All I have are mr Surfacer 500 and the Dissolved putty. I sprayed the 500 mixing it almost 50/50 with no issues- cleaning the AB was like washing out a good decanted dose of rattlecan krylon- messy but came out with no issues- the surfacer worked fine.

I'll be doing this again today.

Go Flight · Post by **Go Flight** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:53 pm

Just heard thru a friend that Brookhurst Hobbies is telling him that Mr. Surfacer 500 in the jar is being discontinued? Any body have news on that?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:39 pm

Go Flight wrote:Just heard thru a friend that Brookhurst Hobbies is telling him that Mr. Surfacer 500 in the jar is being discontinued? Any body have news on that?

No, just being difficult to find in the states. They've also come out with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 which is hotter for use on metal and resin.

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:21 am

Kylwell wrote:
No, just being difficult to find in the states. They've also come out with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 which is hotter for use on metal and resin.

I have Mr. Resin Primer and it is much better on resin than the regular stuff. The regular stuff will peel and flake off during masking. Resin stuff does not.

Go Flight · Post by **Go Flight** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 12:57 pm

Thanks guys. I know I could get down to the right answer here.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 1:25 pm

Blappy wrote:
Kylwell wrote:
No, just being difficult to find in the states. They've also come out with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 which is hotter for use on metal and resin.
I have Mr. Resin Primer and it is much better on resin than the regular stuff. The regular stuff will peel and flake off during masking. Resin stuff does not.

You can also polish it to a damned high shine I've discovered. Sticks like glue to PE also.

Now if it just wasn't so damned nasty smelling.

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 8:09 pm

Kylwell wrote: They've also come out with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 which is hotter for use on metal and resin.

Today was the first time I heard about this. I happened to be at my LHS today and they had it in stock so I bought a jar. I will give it a try on my next build.

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:45 pm

To update you, there only 2 entries for Fill-n-Sand on e*bay now and only one quart entry and it's $53.50. I'd have to be cranking one or two models out a week to justify that.

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 2:36 pm

Is this the equivalent of primer surfacer products?
http://www.eastwood.com/usc-high-build- ... DE=1SE1531

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:41 pm

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:03 pm

Thanks. So has anyone tried to find primer surfacer in the cheaper auto body primer quantities? ...Like the Lucite stuff mentioned above?

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Mon Oct 21, 2013 1:16 am

DeltaVee wrote:Thanks. So has anyone tried to find primer surfacer in the cheaper auto body primer quantities? ...Like the Lucite stuff mentioned above?

I bought some DuPont 131S a while back after hearing from Dave Merriman that Mr. Surfacer was re-packaged 131S. I may have the document around here somewhere. It may also be up on the main site too. But, he did the research, ran down the people at DuPont, a wholesaler and cross referenced the SKUs to figure it out.

All that being said, the 500 and the 131S to my mind are absolutely no different. I mean, they smell the same, have the same viscosity, have the same dry time, airbrush the same, etc... I compared them side-by-side myself because to be honest, I thought there was no way it could be that simple.

Kenny

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Mon Oct 21, 2013 9:21 am

Thanks Kenny,
Great info. Have you used the Dupont primer surfacer and found out that it performs the same? Is it more like the 1000 stuff or the 500 stuff? 1000 seems thinner.

Blappy · Post by **Blappy** » Mon Oct 21, 2013 3:24 pm

DeltaVee wrote:Thanks Kenny,
Great info. Have you used the Dupont primer surfacer and found out that it performs the same? Is it more like the 1000 stuff or the 500 stuff? 1000 seems thinner.

1000 had a finer pigment so you get a much smoother finish. They also have the 1200 and 1500 primers that are even finer. I never spray 500 and a jar last me for years.

DeltaVee · Post by **DeltaVee** » Mon Oct 21, 2013 4:22 pm

Thanks, Blap. But presumably the 500 is better for filling gross flaws? So you brush 500 and spray 1000 and higher? The finer grain sounds great, but aren't most modelers going to sand it anyway down to at least 400 or 600 grit?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Oct 21, 2013 5:46 pm

Priming gives you a uniform surface and helps paint adhesion. Primers are also usually less susceptible to surface contamination.

One of the issues with heavier primers is that they also will cover up details. Primers don't know the difference between flaws & details. Mr. Surfacer 1000 contracts, showing all the details and flaws, hence the need to fill those flaws with 500.