Getting that great gloss?

tyhe314 · Post by **tyhe314** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 1:18 am

I love building all models from space ships to sports cars. I recently purchased a 1:12 scale of the Ford Shelby GT500 (absolutely sweet kit). Anyways point is the model is large and it makes flaws more obvious. One major flaw is the gloss coat. I used a flat blue as the base coat and I have tried both Model Master Gloss Coat Acrylic (airbrushed) and a Testors spray can lacquer gloss coat and both gave unsatisfactory result. I tried several coats, sanded off and tried again and yet I can not get a even, smooth coat.

Any advice out there to guarantee a good gloss coat whether it be model starships or cars?

Scott Hasty · Post by **Scott Hasty** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 7:58 am

Future

I shoot it straight from my airbrush. Keep in mind your finish will be as good as your prep.

tyhe314 · Post by **tyhe314** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 8:21 am

Do you thin it with rubbing alcohol as he suggests? Or will it be fine airbrushing from a gravity feed? I also have a siphon internal mix brush would it be better to use that if I don't thin it?

kenlilly106 · Post by **kenlilly106** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 9:33 am

I'll be the voice of dissent here and advise against Future as the clear coat for a model car.

To me Future over flat paint, even in multiple coats, looks like Future over paint, not that great gloss with depth like you get on automotive paints. I know thew new paints are base+clear but the final result looks better than Future over flat paint.

You said you used flat blue for the base coat, which brand was it? And the clear gloss issues, what was the result that you found unsatisfactory?

My advice would be to strip all the paint off the car and start over from a clean canvas.

I know that Testors makes a set of lacquer car paints that have to have a clear coat applied over them, and the Tamiya spray paints give excellent results and coverage, even the gloss varieties.

Even after getting the body painted it is advised to let the paint cure out for a month or so and then polish it out to get that "showroom shine," especially in larger scales like this where any flaws will be noticeable.

Ken

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 10:56 am

Take a trick from the full size thing and use some fine sandpaper in between clear coats. You build depth and take care of the annoying little bits that get in the paint.

Or, switch to a thinned automotive lacquer, which may still need some blocking to get it smooth.

Vetter · Post by **Vetter** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:00 pm

I prefer to go the wet sand and car wax route myself. You can polish up your flat blue but it might not be what you were looking for.

Scott Hasty · Post by **Scott Hasty** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 8:35 am

tyhe314 wrote:Do you thin it with rubbing alcohol as he suggests? Or will it be fine airbrushing from a gravity feed? I also have a siphon internal mix brush would it be better to use that if I don't thin it?

I don't thin it and use a gravity feed airbrush. And Kylwell is correct, sand between coats for maximum depth.

Thomas E. Johnson · Post by **Thomas E. Johnson** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 7:10 pm

Don't use future. Use automotive lacquer for your clear. Let it dry for about 10 minutes after you apply it, then lightly mist it with the retarder that is recommended for that brand of paint. Repeat until you get the depth of finish and shine that you want. Its an old automotive painters trick, and believe me, you will be amazed at the result.