what is a metalizer

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:48 am

and what is the difference from that and just useing an aluminum paint?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 12:40 pm

Most aluminum paint is just that. Aluminum dust in an adhesive medium. While it'll come out looking metalish it doesn't look like some made out of metal. Same with most of the "chrome" spay paint you can find in the hardware store. Alclad II, Testors Metaliser, Alsa chrome, Talon Series Acrylic & SnJ Spray Metal can all produce finishes that look like the real thing. Some can be buffed to produce a higher shine.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:40 pm

Well I was playin on useing it as a base, and paint over it and somehow get the paint to chip in some spots as if it were showing bare metal

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Fri Aug 03, 2012 9:28 pm

why not chip with a silver pencil?

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 4:38 pm

I read somewhere about putting down a metalic base coat, putting some kind of vasalene in spots ( where you want the ships to be) and after you spray your paint down you wipe it off the spots after it dried

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 5:02 am

Best not to use vasaline. Salt weathering is a better idea- put your metallic base coat down, then spritz water on in spots, and dust on fine grained salt. Wait for that to dry, then apply a top color coat. When that dries, scrub the salt off, revealing the base coat, and scratching the top coat up a little bit. You can do this with multiple color coats, adding a little bit of salt between each color, then scrubbing the salt off when everything is done.

Better yet is the hairspray method. Again, apply the metallic base coat, then a strong, clear barrier coat, like Future. Spray hairspray over that, then an acrylic color coat. I think this only works with acrylic paint. Once the color coat is dry to the touch, but not fully cured, scrub away at certain areas with a wet toothbrush or stumpy, old paintbrush. The hairspray will prevent the top coat from fully adhering to the base, and it will scour away very realistically. The more you scrub, the more it comes off. When it looks as you like it, let it cure and apply another clear coat. You can do this one with multiple top coats too.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Mon Aug 06, 2012 8:27 am

Thanks, I'll try that salt method

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:16 pm

Is it realy worth it to use a metalizer? Or will I get the same effect with testers steel? I'm going to use it to weather paint chips, not sure exactly how I will acheave this.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:42 pm

Possibly. It depends on how fine the flake is in Testors Steel.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 1:50 pm

It dosent look very flakey more like a silver paint

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:27 pm

Give it a shot then. Tamiya metallics have a HUGE flake size that's not only hard on airbrushes but looks bad.

When I've done similar I've only used the silvery stuff on the leading edges of things shading back to dull oxidized metal.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:34 pm

Any idea how to get that chipped look, with a little streaking

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:37 pm

Salt or hairspray.

Salt gives a nice random chipped look but doesn't work so well on curved surfaces.

That's where hairspray rules the roost.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:42 pm

How do u use the salt? Mix it with water and just put it where u want it? And paint over it when it's dry? What about the hair spray?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 9:13 pm

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Salting.html
http://migjimenez.blogspot.com/2009/11/ ... -vol1.html

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:05 pm

Thanks I'm masking off the model and once i'm done I'll give it a try. Thanks

Bullet175 · Post by **Bullet175** » Wed Dec 26, 2012 8:54 pm

A very convincing method Ive used on WWII aircraft for chipping flaking paint is to first paint the areas you want to chip with whatever color is under the paint. In the case of a WWII fighter plane that color would be aluminum.

Next with tooth pics or xacto blade take tiny dabs of vasaline and place them carefully along the leading edges of the wings along panel edges and rivet tops. While doing this be very careful not to touch and smear up what you have already done. These will be your paint chips.

Now when your happy with what you have then spray on your color coat and let dry. When the paint has dried take a tissue and carefully wipe off the vasaline and BINGO. Chipped paint. Now the method can certainly be modified for different applications but it works really well. But you must be spraying on you color coat for this to work.

Rogviler · Post by **Rogviler** » Wed Dec 26, 2012 9:32 pm

Bullet175 wrote:...Vaseline...

Does that work with any paint or just acrylics? Just curious if a highly-thinned lacquer or oil paint would dissolve the Vaseline...

At any rate, I'll have to try that, as I work almost exclusively with water-based stuff.

-Rog

Bullet175 · Post by **Bullet175** » Wed Dec 26, 2012 11:38 pm

Ive worked my entire modeling life on Testors enamels and they worked fine thinned for airbrush.

EDIT I cannot say how it would work for acrylics. But if you had trouble with it maybe try a water based Gel of some type might get good results.

Gerry · Post by **Gerry** » Thu Dec 27, 2012 12:09 am

Depending on your scale, I'd either use salt to make chips
or apply Liquid Masking to it before applying the final color,
then peal away afterward.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Dec 27, 2012 2:43 am

I've become really fond of sponge chipping. Tiny piece of open cell PP sponge, dip lightly in paint, dab off most of it and then apply gently to model. Use a sweeping motion for the scrap areas, straight apply for rock & drek chipping.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Mon Feb 04, 2013 11:23 am

When it says "air brush only" does that mean its ready for a air brush or does it still need to be thinned? As well with any other metalizer?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Feb 04, 2013 12:02 pm

It's ready to use in an airbrush, no thinning needed.

crowe-t · Post by **crowe-t** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:37 pm

Has anyone here used Talon Series Acrylics?

Are they available in the US?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:10 pm

crowe-t wrote:Has anyone here used Talon Series Acrylics?

Are they available in the US?

I hate to tell you but Hawkeye Hobbies, owner of the Talon metalizer series, is no longer in business and so far no one has picked any of their lines up.

crowe-t · Post by **crowe-t** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:19 pm

Kylwell wrote:
crowe-t wrote:Has anyone here used Talon Series Acrylics?

Are they available in the US?
I hate to tell you but Hawkeye Hobbies, owner of the Talon metalizer series, is no longer in business and so far no one has picked any of their lines up.

That's too bad. Metalizer acrylics would have been nice to use.

BTW, how are Alclad and Testors Metalizer paints to use?

I have heard that Alclad are better.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:30 pm

Alclad II are awesome. Testors Metalizers not so much. Both go down easily but Alclad II dries harder.

crowe-t · Post by **crowe-t** » Mon Apr 29, 2013 7:32 pm

Kylwell wrote:Alclad II are awesome. Testors Metalizers not so much. Both go down easily but Alclad II dries harder.

I've heard Testors rubs off easily and can't be masked over.

How is Alclad II in this regard?

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:20 am

It does rub off, as for masking I'll let ya know

Mad Ma.Ks · Post by **Mad Ma.Ks** » Thu May 02, 2013 2:46 pm

crowe-t wrote:
Kylwell wrote:Alclad II are awesome. Testors Metalizers not so much. Both go down easily but Alclad II dries harder.
I've heard Testors rubs off easily and can't be masked over.

How is Alclad II in this regard?

The Testors Metalizers rub off easily.

The Alclad is tougher and can be masked over. I use Tamiya tape and have never had an issue with it on Alclad.