Printing directly on styrene with inkjet printer
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Printing directly on styrene with inkjet printer
I had the crazy idea last night to print directly on styrene sheet using my inkjet printer. I noticed that the plastic I was using to create lightboxes to light the ports along the edge of my refit saucer was about the thickness of the photo paper I regularly run through the printer.
To create the lightboxes now, I design them in Illustrator, print them out, put some spray adhesive on the back and then stick them on the plastic sheet and cut them out. But if I could print directly on the plastic, it would be a lot easier. I could also include graphics to simulate the look of corridors, LCARs panels, etc.
My idea was to take a plastic sheet, spray it with fixative, run it through the printer and spray it with fixative again, then score the plastic and fold it up into a lightbox.
Of course once I tried folding a box (after cutting the shape using a paper template), I found I couldn't bend the plastic without breaking it, although I now think I could have softened the plastic with some liquid glue before bending. Also, any printed detail would run on contact with the glue, but I still thought it was a pretty good idea.
Problem was, I was economizing using scrap pieces of plastic and didn't have any pieces big enough to cut down to a 4x6, which is about the right size I think for this purpose.
But I wonder if anyone else has tried this trick?
Thanks, Jennifer
To create the lightboxes now, I design them in Illustrator, print them out, put some spray adhesive on the back and then stick them on the plastic sheet and cut them out. But if I could print directly on the plastic, it would be a lot easier. I could also include graphics to simulate the look of corridors, LCARs panels, etc.
My idea was to take a plastic sheet, spray it with fixative, run it through the printer and spray it with fixative again, then score the plastic and fold it up into a lightbox.
Of course once I tried folding a box (after cutting the shape using a paper template), I found I couldn't bend the plastic without breaking it, although I now think I could have softened the plastic with some liquid glue before bending. Also, any printed detail would run on contact with the glue, but I still thought it was a pretty good idea.
Problem was, I was economizing using scrap pieces of plastic and didn't have any pieces big enough to cut down to a 4x6, which is about the right size I think for this purpose.
But I wonder if anyone else has tried this trick?
Thanks, Jennifer
virtualight aka Jennifer Petkus
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I think you'll find the ink will bead up on the styrene, sort of run at the edges, and take forever to dry. The substrate has to have an absorption layer to work with inkjet ink, and the fixative spray you mentioned may or may not provide the proper absorption. I've heard of people having some success with spraying Krylon artist's fixative and then printing on that, or scuffing the styrene's surface to make it a smooth matte and then printing with the lightest ink volume possible. You could print the design onto a quality matte white cardstock, which would probably score & fold as easily as your thin styrene.
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Yes, I was thinking of using the fixative only to prevent the ink from smudging while working the piece, but a couple of coats of Future might offer some protection.darthviper107 wrote:If the printing worked out--you could then spray some kind of sealer over it so that the glue wouldn't damage the printed ink
I've also decided that rather than trying to go all origami on my lightboxes, it would be better to just use slots and tabs to build my lightboxes. Scoring and folding these little things (it's the 1/1000 refit) is maddening.
virtualight aka Jennifer Petkus
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Yes, I was planning on using Krylon's matte fixative, which I use all the time to seal my printed photos. It has a very nice surface, and I could also scuff the surface as well.Joseph Osborn wrote:I've heard of people having some success with spraying Krylon artist's fixative and then printing on that, or scuffing the styrene's surface to make it a smooth matte and then printing with the lightest ink volume possible.
Actually, the reason I had this idea is that I printed my templates on an odd size piece of glossy photo paper, wanting its heavier weight for my template. But while searching for it on my work desk, I accidentally picked up a sheet of styrene. The photo paper was actually a lot shinier than the styrene.
virtualight aka Jennifer Petkus
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l.
This comes up as a topic quite often in paper modelling forums.
Its certainly possible to print the paper parts and use as a template for a styrene model.
The real trick would be to print the coloured parts to styrene and assemble a full colour model. I have had a go but without success. As suggested, the ink just beaded up on the styrene sheet. I also tried to rough up the sheet slightly using wet and dry paper but that failed as well.
You can by transparent self adhesive sheet that is inkjet compatible so I have thought about a hybrid using paper parts to make the template for the styrene model then printing the colour skin onro the adhesive sheet to "paint" the model.
Its certainly possible to print the paper parts and use as a template for a styrene model.
The real trick would be to print the coloured parts to styrene and assemble a full colour model. I have had a go but without success. As suggested, the ink just beaded up on the styrene sheet. I also tried to rough up the sheet slightly using wet and dry paper but that failed as well.
You can by transparent self adhesive sheet that is inkjet compatible so I have thought about a hybrid using paper parts to make the template for the styrene model then printing the colour skin onro the adhesive sheet to "paint" the model.
Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage
to change the things I cannot accept, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those I had to kill today because they got on my nerves.
And help me to remember when I'm having a bad day and it seems that people are trying to wind me up, it takes 42 muscles to frown, 28 to smile
and only 4 to extend my arm and smack someone in the mouth!
to change the things I cannot accept, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those I had to kill today because they got on my nerves.
And help me to remember when I'm having a bad day and it seems that people are trying to wind me up, it takes 42 muscles to frown, 28 to smile
and only 4 to extend my arm and smack someone in the mouth!
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l.
This comes up as a topic quite often in paper modelling forums.
Its certainly possible to print the paper parts and use as a template for a styrene model.
The real trick would be to print the coloured parts to styrene and assemble a full colour mode
Its certainly possible to print the paper parts and use as a template for a styrene model.
The real trick would be to print the coloured parts to styrene and assemble a full colour mode
Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage
to change the things I cannot accept, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those I had to kill today because they got on my nerves.
And help me to remember when I'm having a bad day and it seems that people are trying to wind me up, it takes 42 muscles to frown, 28 to smile
and only 4 to extend my arm and smack someone in the mouth!
to change the things I cannot accept, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those I had to kill today because they got on my nerves.
And help me to remember when I'm having a bad day and it seems that people are trying to wind me up, it takes 42 muscles to frown, 28 to smile
and only 4 to extend my arm and smack someone in the mouth!
Aside from the ink beading up on the surface and rubbing off, another problem you'll likely see is the colours shifting in weird ways. That's what I remember seeing whenever someone tried to print on ID badge inserts that were to be laminated. When printed, the colours wouldn't match what you'd get on paper (e.g. we had blues turn into light violet). The colours would change again after you ran them through the laminator.
As for bending sheet styrene, you'll probably have to score the areas where you're going to bend.
As for bending sheet styrene, you'll probably have to score the areas where you're going to bend.
Naoto Kimura
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Actually I discovered the locking tab method method works much better: Tab A goes in slot B. Scoring and bending something that small has diminishing returns.naoto wrote:As for bending sheet styrene, you'll probably have to score the areas where you're going to bend.
I will not be trying to print on styrene this time around, but when I revisit it, I'll post here about my success.
Jennifer
virtualight aka Jennifer Petkus
I print on clear and white plastic stock all the time. I have a OKI dry ink type printer I use to do it. I made some resin kits a few years ago and printed pasterns on the clear sock do the modeler could cut it out. Also print screen on white stock to back light. I bet ink jet will bead up and smear before you can set it.
You could try HP Premium Inkjet Transparency Film it holds the ink good then spray the fixative to seal it.
http://www.amazon.com/HP-Premium-InkJet ... B00000JKJ2
also this looks promising but I have not tried it.
http://www.ulano.com/ijf/inkjetfilm.htm
http://www.amazon.com/HP-Premium-InkJet ... B00000JKJ2
also this looks promising but I have not tried it.
http://www.ulano.com/ijf/inkjetfilm.htm
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I found this product: Waterproof inkjet vinyl
It should be perfect for a lot of purposes, including applying it directly to styrene, using it as a cutting guide and providing a texture. Yes, I could also make decals for the same purpose, but this seems a lot less fiddly than decals.
It should be perfect for a lot of purposes, including applying it directly to styrene, using it as a cutting guide and providing a texture. Yes, I could also make decals for the same purpose, but this seems a lot less fiddly than decals.
virtualight aka Jennifer Petkus
is the HP Premium Inkjet Transparency Film available in letter or legal size?TheHawk wrote:You could try HP Premium Inkjet Transparency Film it holds the ink good then spray the fixative to seal it.
http://www.amazon.com/HP-Premium-InkJet-Transparency-C3834A/dp/B00000JKJ2hp 901xl
also this looks promising but I have not tried it.
http://www.ulano.com/ijf/inkjetfilm.htm
I've done this many times before. Here's what you do.
Get some normal dollar store hair spray and spray it on the surface of the plastic sheet. You may have to do a couple of coats (allowing it to dry completely between coats) until you get a smooth finish. Once you got a good smooth finish it can be printed on just like paper with no bleeding whatsoever. However, the ink is still not water proof... when done, must let the ink dry completely (usually overnight I've found to be best) and then when its dry, spray some Krylon satin clear coat over it very lightly from a distance. Like a dusting of the coat. Let it dry completely between coats again, but keep doing it until you have a nice smooth finish and you'll be all set to use it. Ends up being a very stable and durable job as well. I've used it many times for making plaques and small detailed pieces for some of my dioramas. Lemme know how it comes out for you.
Get some normal dollar store hair spray and spray it on the surface of the plastic sheet. You may have to do a couple of coats (allowing it to dry completely between coats) until you get a smooth finish. Once you got a good smooth finish it can be printed on just like paper with no bleeding whatsoever. However, the ink is still not water proof... when done, must let the ink dry completely (usually overnight I've found to be best) and then when its dry, spray some Krylon satin clear coat over it very lightly from a distance. Like a dusting of the coat. Let it dry completely between coats again, but keep doing it until you have a nice smooth finish and you'll be all set to use it. Ends up being a very stable and durable job as well. I've used it many times for making plaques and small detailed pieces for some of my dioramas. Lemme know how it comes out for you.
When I die I'm leaving my body to science fiction!
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Thanks, I've yet to try it, but you give me hope.LrdSatyr8 wrote:I've done this many times before. Here's what you do.
Get some normal dollar store hair spray and spray it on the surface of the plastic sheet. You may have to do a couple of coats (allowing it to dry completely between coats) until you get a smooth finish. Once you got a good smooth finish it can be printed on just like paper with no bleeding whatsoever. However, the ink is still not water proof... when done, must let the ink dry completely (usually overnight I've found to be best) and then when its dry, spray some Krylon satin clear coat over it very lightly from a distance. Like a dusting of the coat. Let it dry completely between coats again, but keep doing it until you have a nice smooth finish and you'll be all set to use it. Ends up being a very stable and durable job as well. I've used it many times for making plaques and small detailed pieces for some of my dioramas. Lemme know how it comes out for you.
virtualight aka Jennifer Petkus
One thing I've done is to print fine lines onto paper and then glue it to the styrene. Cut along the lines, remove paper and assemble. The repositionable spray adhesive that you can move for a while works best, so you can get it nice and smooth.
Using CorelDraw, you can also move the lines so that you take the thickness of the plastic into account in the plans.
Has worked pretty well for me.
Kev
Using CorelDraw, you can also move the lines so that you take the thickness of the plastic into account in the plans.
Has worked pretty well for me.
Kev