Easiest way to fill windows

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:55 am

I don't like the hollow look of models when you remove the windows and just leave them open, what is the easiest way to fill the windows?

Bellerophon · Post by **Bellerophon** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:21 am

Fill 'em with something clear. I used Micro Krystal Kleer in the past, just painting it in. Another method, and I know Don Matthys was suggesting this, is to tape over the outside and fill from the inside with clear resin. I tried it on my KBoP recently using clear epoxy, but wasn't satisfied with the results. It's too viscous so there are problems with voids and bubbles.

I think Don was probably recommending clear acrylic. This came up recently on Steve Neill's Garage, and I looked it up. It consists of two parts, monomer acrylic liquid and polymer powder, which solidify when mixed in no particular proportions. Lang Dental makes the stuff, most of which is controlled by the FDA and only available to dentists, but they also make non-dental products in clear and opaque black. Happily, these are less expensive.

I am planning to get some of the clear, but it's a lot more economical in larger quantities. If there's enough interest, I'd decant the stuff into smaller containers (have to make sure they're compatible material). That way it would be no more than $10 for an ounce of liquid resin and a matching amount of powder. That's probably enough to do a few 1:350 Enterprises.

Valiant · Post by **Valiant** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:23 am

I've heard of people filling it with clear resin, but I'm not brave enough to do that. One other method I like better is to mask the exterior of the ship, and use clear glue (or white glue if you would like) and fill it in from inside; be sure to use some good leak proof tape and well seal the area if you don't like dealing with the residual glue clean up. The only downside to this method is if the actual ship has slightly recessed windows (i.e. later era star trek ships).

Bellerophon · Post by **Bellerophon** » Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:46 pm

And don't forget to read the sticky about it!

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:35 pm

Dental Acrylic.

Not me... but interesting results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcXo_kZf4Lw

Mr. Badwrench · Post by **Mr. Badwrench** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:09 pm

Chiver, you never said how big the windows are. The method for filling in 1:1400 starship windows is going to be completely different from filling in a 1:48 fighter canopy. What are you working on?

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:52 pm

Sorry I should have specified, I'm planing to ight some windows on the revell voyager original issue. I know I can just leave them hollowed out but I don't like te hollow look it has when you do.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 11:03 pm

Clear rod. Glue it in, sand it flush and mask.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 11:29 pm

Never though of that...thanks

Andrew Gorman · Post by **Andrew Gorman** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:54 pm

Elmers glue for anything up to about 1/4 inch, and once it's dry, a drop of clear enamel for gloss. And it's easy. Once the model is painted, get a drop of glue on the end of a toothpick and twirl it into the opening and move on to the next one. Let it dry thoroughly- maybe a couple of days until the glue is clear. Then dab in a little clear enamel to fill the meniscus and add some gloss. Don't use anything water based since it will soften the glue and turn it white again. It's totally reversible. If you don't like the look, poke it out with another toothpick and try again. It works for me.

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:38 pm

Andrew Gorman wrote:Elmers glue for anything up to about 1/4 inch, and once it's dry, a drop of clear enamel for gloss. And it's easy. Once the model is painted, get a drop of glue on the end of a toothpick and twirl it into the opening and move on to the next one. Let it dry thoroughly- maybe a couple of days until the glue is clear. Then dab in a little clear enamel to fill the meniscus and add some gloss. Don't use anything water based since it will soften the glue and turn it white again. It's totally reversible. If you don't like the look, poke it out with another toothpick and try again. It works for me.

Makes sense. And the Elmers dries not completely clear so it will spread the light much nicer.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:08 pm

I've heard good things about dental acrylic, any idea where I could find that?

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:55 pm

http://www.burmanindustries.com/estore/home.php?cat=20

Remember this this is a 2 part deal. You also will need the Dental Acrylic Monomers.

If you keep watching that youtube vid series, he does show the other half.

Glorfindel · Post by **Glorfindel** » Sat Apr 13, 2013 7:59 am

Boyd at Trekworks has a great method injecting canopy glue into the windows and simply wiping any excess off. His builds look great and lighting sweet.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:12 am

I've seen the videos and it looks like it would work great. And cheap and ey to use.

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Sat Apr 13, 2013 8:51 am

Using canopy glue I can see for smaller windows... I do like that idea, but I will be ordering some of that dental acrylic. I believe that Steve, from Steve Neills Garage also used it for his Klingon build.

dizzyfugu · Post by **dizzyfugu** » Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:54 am

Depends on the window size. Small stuff, like 1:144 airliner side windows can easily be "filled" with simple white glue. It's not clear, but the result is O.K. and the impression much better than just bare holes...

Humbrol also used to have a special, thick clear varnish that was intended for windowmaking on models. can't remember the name, but worked fine, too.

Clear resin might be an option, but the stuff is aggressive while curing and might dissolve the contact area on styrene kit. On a resin kit it should be fine, though.

seam-filler · Post by **seam-filler** » Tue May 07, 2013 6:40 am

dizzyfugu wrote:Humbrol also used to have a special, thick clear varnish that was intended for windowmaking on models. can't remember the name, but worked fine, too.

Humbrol ClearFix. Still available.

Valdore · Post by **Valdore** » Tue May 28, 2013 5:48 pm

Kylwell wrote:Clear rod. Glue it in, sand it flush and mask.

Well gee...... I tried this last night with clear sprue, melting it, and then smooshing it in to the window. And then sanding it down. And thought I was being clever.

Then i come on here, and read this thread.

So much for original thinking. Lol

But yeah. this way for me is easy, cheap. Who doesn't have a mini stock pile of clear sprue? Plus i kinda like the frosted look of the windows after sanding.

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Tue May 28, 2013 6:27 pm

I ended up getting a two part acrylic (the same stuff nail salons use)

1- tape out side of window

2- pour in some of the powder

3- just a few drops usually only needed 2, then wait 2 min for it to dry.

Be very careful with the second part and use only well ventalated area

starmanmm · Post by **starmanmm** » Wed May 29, 2013 6:29 pm

so how did you like it?

chiver · Post by **chiver** » Wed May 29, 2013 9:48 pm

Actually i was very impressed with it.

http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r52 ... e02cd9.jpg

The windows on the right are not filled, and the ones on the left are

I will add some Picts of lit, once I work the lights in

Zubie · Post by **Zubie** » Sun Jun 01, 2014 11:35 am

Just saw a page off the on the bench thread where someone was using nail acrylic varnish along with acrylic powder from a beauty supply store to make fill windows-trekkrrific's mach 5 build actually, hit it by accident following pic stream. Unfortunately outside of pics not much text on the how to. Years ago I filled in a missing window on a williams brs b-10 using just clear nail polish which sort of worked. In hind sight should have practiced more. I got the idea from an ipms article that claimed you could even build up canopies over a mold, but the trick of course was coating the mold with something that would release what i suspect would be a rather fragile bit of glazing. Alas, what the release agent was I don't remember, or where that issue is either. Anybody else heard of using these clear nail products to do something like this. It sounds easier and probably cheaper than getting medical grade glazes.

Web searches for the technique are proving difficult.

Btw, not all elmers brand glue dries translucent white. They and other manufacturers sell glue that is reasonably clear (besides kristal kleer). I've used the elmers on some projects and the only remark is that it feels gummier, not tacky, but more rubbery than the white, similar to kristal kleer actually. I recall, this latter product recommended some sort of brand kristal hardener for more permanent uses (nail polish?).