Help w/ Word War Robot-style weathering

[wolfpuppet]

Hello. I'm new to the boards, but I hope none of you mind if I ask for advice right off the bat.

I'm painting a Warhammer Necron army. For the vehicles, I want to go for the rusty, beat-up look you see on World War Robot figs. I particularly want to imitate the Frosty Choad colorway:

http://www.threeawiki.com/Frosty_Choad_ ... rge_Martin

I'd really appreciate some advice on how to pull his off. Looking at the images it seems to be a combination of paint masking/chipping, washes, pigments, and stippling. I'm moderately skilled in those techniques, but I've never attempted to use them all on one model.

Oh- and I have no airbrush. Still, I'm looking forward to this challenge. Thanks in advance!

[Kylwell]

Hmm, w/o an airbrush this could be tough. Not impossible but tough. The easy (i.e. airbrush way) would be multiple layers using the hairspray method of chipping between the layers. To my knowledge this requires an airbrush.

So, method #2, sponge chipping. Again, multiple layers except instead of working from the base layer up you have to go from your final layer & work down. The other problem with sponge chipping is that it adds paint and can leave you with a texture that may not work right. The trick is to get the paint thinned enough that it goes on easily but not so thin as to not show up.

More later when I'm awake.

[dizzyfugu]

Looks like a hair spray job to me, and the fine acryllics, apllied with an air brush. Very special technique, you need IMHO the right equipment for good results (as fine as on the pics).

A more coarse option is the salt technique, with uses salt to cover a an underlying coat of metal or rust. surfcae color can be applied on top of that with a brush (I did this on a 1:72 aircraft with good results - check http://www.flickr.com/photos/dizzyfugu/ ... 9084685616 and in the photostream you find some WiP pics and comments), even though an airbrush is recommended for this too.

Alternatively, you can try to emulate the finish just by brush and dry-painting. You won't get that pock mark look, but the weathering can be brought close to that.

All methods need som practice and feeling for the paint(s). You will have to try - and best is to free your mind from copying a certain look, rather try to achieve your own version of it.

[wolfpuppet]

Cheers, guys. Appreciate the feedback. An airbrush is definitely on my wishlist, but since I won't be able to get one right away, I need to make do with what I have.

Kylwell: Can you tell me more about the sponge technique? I thought about using a thin glaze, but but the result would be transparent and unnatural.

dizzyfugu: Does the salt technique work with brushing? I really like the results you got. I've been practicing with liquid masks, since they can withstand brushing. The outlines are still too smooth, though.

Here's the sequence I thought of:

1. Base with rust-colored paint, then add mask (whether salt, liquid mask, or other technique)
2. Add pale brown/beige, then remove masks
3. Wash with light gray
4. Weather with iron oxide pigment
5. Stipple/sponge with another color (rust?)

Results won't look exactly like WWR, but fumbling is a great way to stumble into something unique!

[dizzyfugu]

Yes, it works with brushes, even though you get best results through an airbrush. It's also best for larger scales - it comes from 1:35 military vehicles, developed to mimic rust and flaking paint. My use on the 1:72 Mustang is a bit off, but the result (with brush and enamels - messy, but feasible) is O.K. and the look could not have been done with simple brush painting.

The salt is very persistent, you even get a crust. Dosing both sand and water is tricky, you have to experiment a bit. On the other side, nothing beats the irregular results of "wild" application, that looks IMHO by far better than an even finish.

You need a base first - maybe bare metal. Then the salt is applied, and on top of that the cammo scheme. Some extra effect can be added through the sponge technique at this point.
Rub the salt off and see what you get - you might enhance the effect through wet sanding with a fine sand paper, which also might become necessary if the salt creates "craters" in the paint. Finally, a wash an/or dry painting will enhance the texture effect. Pretty straightforward, just takes some steps and patience for thorough drying between them.

[Mr. Badwrench]

Kylwell: Can you tell me more about the sponge technique? I thought about using a thin glaze, but but the result would be transparent and unnatural.

1. Base with rust-colored paint, then add mask (whether salt, liquid mask, or other technique)
2. Add pale brown/beige, then remove masks
3. Wash with light gray
4. Weather with iron oxide pigment
5. Stipple/sponge with another color (rust?)

Results won't look exactly like WWR, but fumbling is a great way to stumble into something unique!

What you describe in step 5 is about all there is to it. A coarse piece of sponge, dipped in thin paint, and daubed on the edges of the model, or anywhere the top color would appear to be scuffed off. It's easy to overdo, so just hit the high wear areas a little bit, with rust or grey.

Rub the salt off and see what you get - you might enhance the effect through wet sanding with a fine sand paper, which also might become necessary if the salt creates "craters" in the paint. Finally, a wash an/or dry painting will enhance the texture effect.

One of the bonuses of the salt method is that it realistically damages the surrounding paint. The little craters and scratches it leaves in the paint look just like actual paint wear. As you pointed out, a wash enhances the effect.

[wolfpuppet]

Sorry for the late reply, guys. Work got pretty frantic last week. Thanks again for the tips!

Yes, it works with brushes, even though you get best results through an airbrush.

I just applied the top coat just before leaving for work. I was surprised that most of the salt stuck to the model even with brushing. It doesn't look as good as an airbrush job like you predicted, but for now I'm just pleased the salt didn't all flake off. I'll scrape the salt when I get home.

What you describe in step 5 is about all there is to it. A coarse piece of sponge, dipped in thin paint, and daubed on the edges of the model, or anywhere the top color would appear to be scuffed off. It's easy to overdo, so just hit the high wear areas a little bit, with rust or grey.

One of the bonuses of the salt method is that it realistically damages the surrounding paint. The little craters and scratches it leaves in the paint look just like actual paint wear. As you pointed out, a wash enhances the effect.

Thanks, man. You're right. I think I over-analyzed the paint jobs. Looking at the toys I have, most of the paint seems to be dappled on with a sponge, or something similar. Will give it a shot once I'm done experimenting with salt. But given that most of my Warhammer vehicles are tiny, sponge seems to be the most efficient way.

[Kylwell]

And I just remembered another technique that can be used, fine sandpaper.

Lay down your layers of paint, dark metal, primer, main color, white wash then one dry take some fine sandpaper and gently remove layers of paint. Emery cloth works great for this so does the 3M soft sanding sheets. If you do wear through to the plastic, just touch it up with a little rust paint.

Then just add your filters & washes.

[dizzyfugu]

Kylwell: Can you tell me
One of the bonuses of the salt method is that it realistically damages the surrounding paint. The little craters and scratches it leaves in the paint look just like actual paint wear. As you pointed out, a wash enhances the effect.

That's the point - and also the reason why it only works in larger scales. It is perfect for 1:35 tanks and such stuff, or 1:20 MaK. figures. On smaller scales the technique as such still works, but the potentially rough and almost 3-dimensional result is just way too much. My 1:72 Mustang was an experiment, and while it worked fine an yielded that special "flaked paint" look I had to work on the surface a lot, e. g. through wet-sanding.

[Ramsayman]

You could just build them all out of metal, then leave them outside for a few years.

Actually, this is all some great advice.