a best filler?

OdysseySlipways · Post by **OdysseySlipways** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 8:51 pm

i am wondering what is a good, simple filler to use that when dry sands nice and easily?

Johnnycrash · Post by **Johnnycrash** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:13 pm

http://starshipmodeler.biz/shop/index.c ... tural.html

CrazyDude · Post by **CrazyDude** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:25 pm

I use a variety of putties.

Tamiya grey thinned down, Tamiya 2 stick putty, Mori-Mori, Sube-Sube and SSP-HG.

All have their different uses as I do a large variety of subjects. Some of those besides filling also work great for sculpting details, repairs, etc.

Haven't found one that does it all.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:30 pm

I use 2. Aves sculpt and Mr. Surfacer 500.

Aves can be feathered, sanded, polished, scribed, machined and of course sculpted.

500 is perfect for filling those lesser dents, divots, seams and scrapes.

Lonewolf · Post by **Lonewolf** » Sat Nov 01, 2014 9:49 pm

I am a worshiper at the House of Aves. It's everything that Kylwell has said, and it has the added bonus of being able to be smoothed with ordinary tap water.

I've used it on resin, styrene and vinyl kits, without a single problem.

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Sun Nov 02, 2014 8:53 am

There's no best filler just the fillers you like the best.

Now I use Mr. Surfacer for small stuff and Aves the larger things. I like them because they minimize the need to sand. Once dry you can wipe Mr. Surfacer off with 99% isopropyl alcohol. You can work and smooth Aves before it dries with water.

Other modelers like other fillers. Look at the great results Ira gets with Squadron Green. Some modelers use two-part automotive polyester putty. Many people use CA as a filler.

Find out what you like to use.

Mike

OdysseySlipways · Post by **OdysseySlipways** » Mon Nov 03, 2014 1:51 am

what about automotive spot putty? (just thought about that, i know Ralph use to use it)

Rocketeer · Post by **Rocketeer** » Mon Nov 03, 2014 11:44 am

I usually use Milliput White or Aves (white), but I have also had success with automotive two-part glazing putty (Evercoat), which sets up really really fast and wet-sands easily. It's most useful where you have to smooth a large surface; I apply it with a putty knife.

SpaceRanger1 · Post by **SpaceRanger1** » Wed Nov 05, 2014 1:56 pm

Not in any particular order, here are my favorite putties/fillers:

Mr. Surfacer comes in three "flavors": 500, 1000, and 1200, in order from coarse to fine. They are intended more as primers/surfacers for filling small imperfections prior to painting, not as a general gap filler. See here for a good primer (pun intended) on Mr. Surfacer: http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html

There's also Mr. Dissolved Putty, which is an even thicker liquid putty, but again, it's not intended for filling large gaps. It can be brushed on, however, which makes it really useful.

For filling large gaps, I'd suggest Milliput, which is an epoxy filler that comes in two parts that have to be mixed thoroughly before applying, and can be smoothed with a wet finger/cotton swab/sculpting tool, or Aves Apoxie, a similar product which comes in a variety of colors and which is probably easier to find. Some of the auto body glazing putties, such as 3M Acryl Spot Putty, make good model putties; these are lacquer based and can be applied (sparingly) with a brush dampened in lacquer thinner. Of the auto body glazing putties, I'd recommend Spies Hecker Permacron Fine Putty.

Another useful filler from the auto body repair sector is Evercoat/Eurosoft, also a two-part putty which requires the addition of a catalyst to harden it. A nice thing about it is that before it sets, it gets rubbery, which makes it easy to carve away any excess with your modeling knife, but once cured, it sands and takes paint like styrene plastic. It's available at auto body repair supply outlets.

Tamiya makes some body putties which are said to be quite good as well, although I've not tried them. A relatively new product is Perfect Plastic Putty, a one-part putty which can be smoothed with water, but it is water soluble after it dries so cannot be wet sanded. However, it can be smoothed after application with a damp cotton swab. Many modelers like to use CA glue as a gap-filler and have had success. But it must be sanded immediately after it initially sets up. I've never had much success with it myself.

You can also make your own putty by dissolving sprue in liquid cement or MEK. What's nice about this is that you can control how thin or thick you want your "plastic plastic" to be, you have a variety of colors of sprue to choose from, and once it's set and sanded it takes paint just like styrene plastic, because it is styrene plastic!

The best way to avoid large gaps is to carefully test fit parts before assembly. But if you have a very large gap in spite of your best efforts, it's best to try to fill it with styrene plastic rod/strip and liquid cement, allowing it to dry thoroughly before applying any putty. This technique is handy for wing-to-fuselage gaps.

Putty, regardless of type or brand, should be used sparingly. The lacquer-based putties can melt through plastic components if applied too generously. You can place masking tape on either side of the gap before applying putty. Once the putty is cured, sand it until you can remove the tape, then sand it flush with the surface. Lacquer-based putties should also be given plenty of time to allow the solvents to evaporate. My rule of thumb is: If I can no longer smell the putty, then it's safe to begin sanding.

I'd suggest getting an old kit and a supply of different model putties and body fillers and experiment. Keep notes. You'll soon find a combination of putty and technique that works well for you. Good luck!

Valdore · Post by **Valdore** » Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:58 pm

I'm probably gonna look stupid for saying what my filler of choice is.

What i tend to use, is a Automotive primer/Talc blend. Depending on the dent/scratch/seam that needs filling. you can add more, or less talc to the primer for the job, for the thickened blend you need.

Another thing I've found, is if the models already painted. you can blend the same paint you used for the base coat with the talc, and almost colour match the filler. Sure, there is the problem of the paint filler having a matt finish after it dries. But a splash of clear coat should bring back the shine if need be.

See, told you I'd look stupid. lol

nitflegal · Post by **nitflegal** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 3:05 pm

I'm having a blast with dental acrylic and Zap a Gap. Saw it on youtube and I have to say, it's working extremely well, even for filling wider areas. No shrinkage and the edge bonds perfectly.