Nacells and pylons

Got a question about techniques, materials or other aspects of physically building a model? This is the place to ask.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
Enterprise01
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 6:37 pm

Nacells and pylons

Post by Enterprise01 »

Anyone ever have any trouble with keeping the pylons and nacelles at the proper angle? Just curious.
What happens if he does'nt survive, he's worth a lot me.
User avatar
Ziz
Posts: 9374
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 9:24 pm
Location: Long Island, NY
Contact:

Post by Ziz »

Use Legos or corrugated cardboard to build a jig to hold things at the proper angle until the glue dries.
Modular
Models

Build your fleet
YOUR way.

http://www.modular-models.com
----------------------------------------------------------
"I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant." - Alan Greenspan
____________________________________
"The customer that spends the least complains the most."
User avatar
Johnnycrash
Posts: 5563
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 12:57 pm
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada

Re: Nacells and pylons

Post by Johnnycrash »

Enterprise01 wrote:Anyone ever have any trouble with keeping the pylons and nacelles at the proper angle? Just curious.
Nope. I just leave them unattached and in the box. Never had any sagging or alignment issues. :P

What Ziz said. :) In some cases with nacelles, you may need to add some weight to the front/back to help balance them at the attachment point on the pylon. That imbalance puts torque on the mount, and can lead to the issues. Of course now, with more weight, the pylon gets more stressed... Ugh!!

The LEGO jig is a really good idea. It's easy to make both sides equal. You may need to shim up the hull to get the nacelles/pylons at the right level to meet at the top of the LEGO, but... We all have enough jun... uh... stuff, laying about to do that. :D

And when you think the glue is dry... Wait another 24 hours. :oops: Trust me.
John Fleming
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
Enterprise01
Posts: 32
Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 6:37 pm

Post by Enterprise01 »

Would never have thought of it. But it does make a lot of sense.
Thanks.
What happens if he does'nt survive, he's worth a lot me.
irishtrek
Posts: 5765
Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:04 am
Location: wouldn't you like to know

Post by irishtrek »

Another method is to leave it sit upside down until the glue dries.
Normal?? What is normal??
User avatar
imatt88
Posts: 22
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2015 2:59 pm
Location: Hubbell, MI, USA

Post by imatt88 »

Has anyone tried using rod to add strength to the pylons during assembly
i.e. AMT/ERTL 1701A?

I used to turn mine upside down, seemed to work for me..

Cheers, Ian
irishtrek
Posts: 5765
Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2005 2:04 am
Location: wouldn't you like to know

Post by irishtrek »

The rod would have to be on the thin side and have enough strength to support the pylons and nacelles.
Normal?? What is normal??
User avatar
raser13
Posts: 3515
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2007 3:55 am
Location: second star to the left and straight on till mourning. other wise known as st. louis,mo

Post by raser13 »

brass bar is what i used. but i also added a little bit of thickness to mine to make it a little more accurate.
i love it when a plan comes together
http://s1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/raser13/
User avatar
naoto
Posts: 29254
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 3:22 pm
Location: Temple City, California, USA

Post by naoto »

It does sort of make sense that people would have trouble with alignment of warp nacelles...

One thing that was a head-scratcher is how from certain angles, the nacelles on the old TOS Enterprise kit from AMT or the one from Estes would often look like one of the nacelles is misaligned. You look at the model from top, bottom, side, front and back and everything looks OK. You take measurements and they tell you everything is OK. But if you look at the model from certain angles, the nacelles end up looking like they are splayed out or at different angles. Perhaps it has to do with the nacelles being cylindrical on the model, whereas the miniature had a taper to them.
Naoto Kimura
木村直人
Post Reply