Best table surface

[DeltaVee]

What's the best, toughest, non-reactive surface for cutting, sanding, and painting?
My longtime table is a classic wood drafting table with white vinyl underneath a glass sheet. I don't know of anything better but thought I'd ask
I recently came into an 18-foot work table that has basically a particle board top. I've located it in my basement and plan to use that as my painting area so I don't fog up my modeling room/office. But there's not a single thing I know of that I can do on particle board besides make a huge mess.

[dizzyfugu]

Personally, I prefer a wooden work surface and I have a scartched "work platform" that I attach a normal table, primarily as protection.
A cutting mat would be the best surface for construction, I think, but it's prone to stains when you paint parts. I'd avoid any glass surface, because it is very hard and you quickly ruin any cutter blade on it (un less you use a mat).

[Andy_USA]

I bought a couple of cheap card tables and topped them with a square of left over ceramic back splash for cutting on. Check out the layout midnite and I have below, it is a very fun room.

[Scotaidh]

I got a metal desk (Craig's List) with three drawers that can be attached to either end of the desk and a formica-surfaced work top. On top of that, I have a 1/2" thick chunk of plexiglass I got from I-don't-remember-where. The plexi is my cutting, drilling, paint-spilling, etc., surface. It is held in place with a C-clamp and a clamp-on mini-vise.

Sorry, no pictures of it, but I've used it for years.

[Rocketeer]

Formica, and it's the cat's pajamas. Impervious to cements and thinners, easy to pop adhered bits of putty off. My desktop is a piece of preform countertop I happened upon somehow.

[Kylwell]

It's hard to argue with glass unless one accidentally forgets that sandpaper can score it.

That being said there are giant self-healing cutting mats available. They only thing they don't like are superglues. I've got 3 sizes, a large one for the bench and 2 smaller ones for the toolbox.

I also have some smaller sheets of glass for various needs like cutting masks.

[karim]

If you have a ReStore nearby, it's worth a trip. I may have the only workshop in the area with Corean tops for my shop sink & paint bench also go a bunch of kitchen-grade cabinets and stainless sink/faucet all for <$300.

[kenlilly106]

Formica, and it's the cat's pajamas. Impervious to cements and thinners, easy to pop adhered bits of putty off.

Seconded

I use an old 3-pc corner computer desk that I modified so it's one long run. One thing I like about them is that they are dead flat so they work great as bases for jigs, lining up landing gear, wing angles, etc. You can draw alignment lines on the surface with Sharpie or pencil and they wipe off with some alcohol when you're done.

I use a small block of wood as a base for cutting parts, styrene, etc., a tempered glass cutting board for cutting masking tape strips (use a utility knife blade, they last far longer than x-acto blades).

Ken

[DeltaVee]

Thanks, folks. Formica may be the cheapest, altho I wish I had a Restore nearby. I may look for something similar. There are some 'odd lots' and other cutout type stores where you never know what you'll find. The main requirement will be the ability to take any paints and thinners and be cleaned up. Hard to beat glass, but if formica were just as good but cheaper, I'd go that route.

[naoto]

Of course the ideal building surface depends on the type of models you're constructing. For model aeroplanes of "stick and tissue" type, I'd need a flat working surface onto which I'd pin the plans, then build the frames directly over the plans -- and I'd use straight pins to tack the pieces down while the glue dries. When I was a kid, that was basically a 2' x 4' x 1/2" plywood board onto which was glued corrugated cardboard to provide surface into which pins can be stuck. After some usage, I'd have to strip off the cardboard and I'd re-surface the working surface with fresh cardboard. Since I like to build in "peanut scale" (around 12"~13" wingspan), I can also use ready-made bulletin boards (but making sure that I get ones that have a fairly sturdy outer frame to help keep it flat). Once the working surface gets chewed up and can't take pins too well, I'd chuck the board.

[Lt. Z0mBe]

I use a big, old piece of tempered glass that once served as the top to a dresser. I can cut on it, clean it easily, etc... The only thing I avoid is hammering on it. For that, the rest of the bench is covered with chipboard.

Kenny