What putty?

[NCC1966]

I use the old "good" (well not too good IMO) Tamiya white. But I never was truly happy with it.

First it always shrinks after dry. Second it always have tiny portions "pulled out" when I sand leaving small holes. It forces me to apply a new layer and wait till it gets completely dry to sand it again. More than once I have been trapped for days in the putty-sand-putty-sand-etc process. It's so frustrating.

Dunno... Perhaps I am just doing it wrong... I normally apply it gently with a toothpick and wait 24 hs before to sand. Then I use a 320 grit dry sandpaper (hate wet sandpaper).

I would like to know what putty do you guys use that make this task less tedious and long?

Thanks!

[Kylwell]

I use Aves for gaps too big for Mr. Surfacer 500. Aves sands much like most styrenes so you don't end up with a ledge or ridge.

[Rogviler]

I predict that the main answers are going to be automotive spot putty (no mixing) and Aves (2 parts).

Both of which are good, just for different things. Aves won't crack so it's good for larger stuff. I would never use it for a pinhole or something else tiny so spot putty is good for that.

Also, super glue is good for other situations, and is something you can scribe over if you're redoing panel lines.

-Rog

[NCC1966]

I use Aves for gaps too big for Mr. Surfacer 500. Aves sands much like most styrenes so you don't end up with a ledge or ridge.

My problem is mainly with seams (two parts joings). I have used Mr. Dissolve Putty (very alike Mr. Surfacer 500 I think) but it seems to shrink too. Perhaps I just should apply several layers before to try to sand it?

[Kylwell]

I use Aves for gaps too big for Mr. Surfacer 500. Aves sands much like most styrenes so you don't end up with a ledge or ridge.

My problem is mainly with seams (two parts joings). I have used Mr. Dissolve Putty (very alike Mr. Surfacer 500 I think) but it seems to shrink too. Perhaps I just should apply several layers before to try to sand it?

I haven't had the best of luck with Mr. Dissolved putty. I just use thin layers of the 500. If the joint is flexing, common on long butt joints, I'll use Gorrilla CA with rubber.

[geck]

If the parts are very stable (no flexing of the seam)...you may want to try Perfect Plastic Putty. It's water based and extremely fine grained. You just put it on and wipe off with your finger. It does not shrink as it dries (that I've noticed)...but I wouldn't use it for large gaps of holes.

So far...I really like the stuff and I'm using it to tone down some of the oversized panel lines in the Bandai T-70 kit

[NCC1966]

I ordered a squirt bottle of "Perfect Plastic Putty". Let's see.

[Rogviler]

I ordered a squirt bottle of "Perfect Plastic Putty". Let's see.

Heard good things about that. I keep meaning to try it, I just have lots of other things I use already so I don't think of it.

-Rog

[TD1701]

I second trying the Aves, and I use it on all of my projects. What I like to do is glue the two parts, say a nacelle, then lightly scribe the seam and sand to rough it up a bit. Then roll small strips of Aves into the seam so it lightly covers it, and dip my finger in water to thin as much as I can without compromising the fill. this way I don't have to sand as much to get a nice smooth surface. Here are a couple of before and after primer pictures. I hope this helps.

Tom

http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .01.39.jpg

http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .02.55.jpg

http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .53.39.jpg

http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .54.31.jpg

[SpaceRanger1]

Spies-Hecker Permacron.Fine Putty 7715. Available wherever auto paint and body supplies are found.

http://m.products.axaltacs.com/mcat/us/ ... obile=true

[Kylwell]

Just mind the MSDS on that.

[southwestforests]

Here 9 months later the links bring up that 3rd party hosting notice.

I second trying the Aves, and I use it on all of my projects. What I like to do is glue the two parts, say a nacelle, then lightly scribe the seam and sand to rough it up a bit. Then roll small strips of Aves into the seam so it lightly covers it, and dip my finger in water to thin as much as I can without compromising the fill. this way I don't have to sand as much to get a nice smooth surface. Here are a couple of before and after primer pictures. I hope this helps.
Tom
http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .01.39.jpg
http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .02.55.jpg
http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .53.39.jpg
http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac32 ... .54.31.jpg

What I'm looking to to is fill and strengthen that kitbashed parts join, and as an added bonus at no extra charge shape a fillet.
I have some as yet untried Aves Apoxy Sculpt - is that what will work?
(assuming I can find it, bought it around 18 months ago or longer)

IMG_6110

IMG_6111

[TD1701]

Sorry about that. I see photobucket wants money now for the links to show the images. Well, that ain't gonna happen. Will have to find a different solution for posting pictures here.

Tom

[Kylwell]

Try the Aves. You'll like it.

[southwestforests]

Okay, will do. Found it, still in shrink wrap. And a little bottle of love potion number nine, well, some kind of special tool cleaner, actually.

[Kylwell]

Okay, will do. Found it, still in shrink wrap. And a little bottle of love potion number nine, well, some kind of special tool cleaner, actually.

That's their "safety solvent". Use it to smooth the putty out. You can also use water. As a note, despite the "non-toxic" label, it's best handled with exam gloves or something similar. It's sticky enough that it'll fill the whorls in your fingertips.

[southwestforests]

I've got vinyl gloves that I use for several things, handling raw meat, breaking eggs, cleaning cat litter boxes, handling bug spray. Will make a note to use them with this.