Remote power for a removable module?

[MillenniumFalsehood]

So I'm working on the USS Enterprise-D, and naturally my client wanted the saucer section to be lit independently of the model...

So I was wondering if the idea I had would work. I don't want the electrical contacts to be visible. Could I use a cell phone induction charger in the battle head to charge a battery in the saucer when the saucer is docked magnetically?

Also, could I use a Bluetooth device of some kind to wirelessly transmit a signal that blinks an LED in the saucer at the same time as the one in the engineering hull?

[Mr. Engineer]

IMHO, I have tried those induction charger things some time ago and the result was that you need to have the coils very near unlike those Kidslogic which, is a few cm away but then again, they use simple LEDs.

But coming to you idea, since the saucer is connected to the Battle Bridge through magnets, how about using those magnets themselves as the 'Wires' providing power to the charger and charge the battery system inside the saucer? But take note of weight distribution in the model.

You can then also connect to a circuit to let the LEDs blink instead. I am thinking about the Red/Green Nav and White Strobes here unless you're thinking about controlling Phaser Banks and impulse Engines on the Saucer.

Using Bluetooth is a great idea to get the LEDs sync but it would complicate things, especially when your Clients come back to you a few months/years down the road and say, how come this does not work or that goes like this and that, IMHO. Or worse, 'It does not work anymore...'

I did think of doing this long ago but then, when I stood back and thought, why complicate things? In the end, I turned down the Client, who wants everything but never did realise the cost and time involved (plus, the nightmare of repairs maintenance later on).

[MillenniumFalsehood]

Part of the problem with this is that the surfaces of the saucer and battlehead don't physically touch except on three standoffs. I could put wires through them, though. There are three, which could be the ground, +VCC, and strobe light control. I could also put in a magnetic reed switch to switch from the strobe circuit board in the engineering hull to an identical circuit in the saucer, as well as turn on and off the simple transistor fader for the saucer impulse drives.

Hopefully the magnets will hold the saucer on the neck strongly enough that they'll maintain contact. I still need to have a charger for the saucer battery. I was thinking of using the MAX1811 IC for this, since the saucer is in two halves and would be super easy to split apart for changing the batteries later if need be.

[Mr. Engineer]

Hmm.... don't get me wrong here but from the description above, it sounded like the you're retrofitting a Diamond Select Enterprise-D. Which if this is true, perhaps you might want to explore it's existing 3x LR44 batteries in the saucer instead.

Still, a quick look at eBay (for the fastest technology update ) reveals the coil method is still a possibility since the circuit board version might not fit into the shaped necks.
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/12V-Wireless ... SwgmJXz39l


[edit]
Here is the shaped PCB version
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/5V-12V-Coupl ... Sw0e9UtKZr

[MillenniumFalsehood]

No, I'm building the AMT kit, actually.

Is there any way to get more than 5v from the receiver coil? I can use 3.5v light sources if I have to and put in a voltage divider, but I would prefer to use the 12v LED tape.

[Mr. Engineer]

Well, there was some from eBay but with 200mA current. I;m not sure if changing the coil's turn would affect the receiver's output...