Connecting power to the model

[TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan]

So the most common way of lighting a model, it seems, is to have the wires coming through the stand and the power located under the base. However, I have the old version of the 1:700 Andromeda from Yamato and it has a rather clever way of powering it. The stand has metal contacts and the hole on the bottom of the ship has corresponding contacts so that the model can be removed from its stand without wires hanging everywhere.

The model is made for lighting the engines and the wave motion cannon. What I want to learn how to do is have a 555 chip controlling blinking navigation lights and another 555 that makes the wave dual motion cannons fade on for a while and then fade off for a longer while. I've seen videos on how to do this on Youtube so I'd like to try it out.

Most people have the chips and such in the base, right? If I am to go forward with this model's lighting, I think I would have the chips sealed away inside the model's hull.

I am also thinking about whether I could come up with such metal contacts to make any model mounted onto its stand through contacts, so that it can be removed from the stand. Of course, it would depend case-by-case with the model as to its feasibility of having the chips inside the model.

Thoughts, comments, suggestions? I am new to all of this. Input would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[Rocketeer]

I have used brass tubing and rod to make contacts. Two brass tubes in the model, two brass rods coming out of the base.

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... CN2622.jpg

...or the other way around: A couple brass rods sticking out of the model, fitting into a couple brass tube sockets in the base. It's inside the foot, which is in the background of this pic:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... 1wa0js.jpg

...which has the additional advantage of giving you a way to hold the model (i.e, holding it by the rods) while doing final assembly.

On my latest project, I'm using the (brass tube) stand to get power to it. The outer square tube carries the load and acts as one half of the electrical connection, and a brass tube/rod pin and socket inside it acts as the other half. Here's the socket in the model (under construction):

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z256 ... rsxrsc.jpg

[TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan]

I think I might use these jumper connectors to light up models. I can cut out a small hole on the bottom of the model (or have it inside the stand), cut one of these in half, secure the female end into the hole on the bottom of the model, and have the male end go up and attach to it. This way, a model can be removed from its stand and handled if necessary, whether it is being transported or simply being admired.

[Sloucher]

Or you could use something like this, then you wouldn't have to cut the connectors in half and you could make the connections polarised (ie one conection male to female and the other female to male).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M133X6U?psc=1

[naoto]

How 'bout a headphone jack and plug for electrical connection?

[DocTor]

How 'bout a headphone jack and plug for electrical connection?

Would that work? It would certainly make a secure yet quick release connection.

[Rocketeer]

How 'bout a headphone jack and plug for electrical connection?

Would that work? It would certainly make a secure yet quick release connection.

Oh, yeah, it'd work fine. I've used headphone jacks to transmit power on models and on full-size cars.

[TurkeyVolumeGuessingMan]

Or you could use something like this, then you wouldn't have to cut the connectors in half and you could make the connections polarised (ie one conection male to female and the other female to male).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M133X6U?psc=1

I can already get those easily at akizukidenshi.com. What I meant by cutting them in half was to cut it in half lengthways, ie the cord. Then I'd solder the power wires from the battery onto the male end while the female end would be implanted into the model.

As for the headphone jack, where would the plus and minus go? I can't visualize that.

[DocTor]

As for the headphone jack, where would the plus and minus go? I can't visualize that.

me neither

[naoto]

As for the headphone jack, where would the plus and minus go? I can't visualize that.

me neither

If you look closely at the headphone plug, you'll notice that the metal parts are divided into distinct sections separated by a narrow bands of a different material. Mono plug would have a tip and sleeve portion (+/-). Stereo would have three sections -- tip, ring and sleeve (left / right / ground). Plugs for use with telephone is apt to have four (left / right / microphone / ground ). See link below:
http://www.circuitbasics.com/how-to-hac ... hone-jack/

[modelbldr_207582]

I can relate to you when reading your post. I too am learning on how to wire 555 Timers, I am building my first model where I'm using LEDs, SMDs. This will be my first experience actually wiring my own perfboard with resisters, power connector and switch. I have a number of videos that I have downloaded so that I'm able to watch and get an idea of how to do all of what you've posted here.

I'm saying you're not the first or only one that is diving into the unknown of something neither of us has done before. I'm looking forward to it so that I'm able to do this for other ideas I have in mind for future builds. For instance, the idea of an Infinity Light as a stand for models.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... ity+Mirror

Here are some awesome ideas a person can consider for stands and then put all of your wires under the mirror