Drilling Really Tiny Holes?

[Tchail]

I bought a Rogue One Star Destroyer model, and am interested in lighting it with 0.25 mm fiber optics.

The problem is, how do I drill the thousand(s) of tiny holes?

I have a pin vise, but based on my experience with #80 drill bits, I would end up breaking a lot of those. And the cheapest I've been able to find them is 10 for $6.00.

I do have a really crazy idea about using a laser diode from a DVD or Blu Ray burner to burn tiny holes. I've seen a bunch of videos of people using laser diodes to light matches, engrave wood, and pop balloons, but I wonder if anyone has ever tried it with drilling holes in polystyrene or resin...

One problem is how do you keep the beam focused as the laser drills through the plastic.

Any thoughts?

[wowyz]

Use a pinvise with lots of small drill-bits(snap easily).

Add fiber optics from an LED.

[Ant]

I made myself a mini drill from a 12v motor & 600RPM gearbox combo, and miniature chuck, both from ebay for a total of less than 5 quid that I have been using with 0.5mm drills on my Zvezda SD and haven't broken a drill yet. It's fast enough to drill a hole in a couple of seconds, but not fast enough to melt the plastic. Being so small and light it's much easier to hold steady than my Dremel too.



I think any laser solution would be extremely difficult- you'd be melting a hole many times deeper than its diameter which is going to leave a mess. A BR laser only just has the power to burn dark materials, white styrene would reflect most of that energy and you would almost certainly end up causing yourself eye damage at some point along the way. No model is worth that.

[southwestforests]

Since early 1980s I've used number 80, 79, 78, bits for various things in model trains such as adding metal grab irons to plastic body shells. Best I've been able to determine is that there is no easy way and bits will eventually break in much the same way as how cats will eventually hack up hairballs.
Some helpful hints are:
Be very aware of developing getfinisheditis on each and every hole, that is prime time for breaking bits; you can bet your grandkids' inheritance on it.
Nibble at it about 5 holes at a time then get up and leave: yes, it will probably take a year to do the job.
Drill with no distractions, none, zero, zilch, no TV, no radio, no CD, no iTunes, no screaming toddlers, no relatives asking where the 16 ounce iced tea glasses are, nothing, if you aren't 100% focused you will break the bit.
The drain from being that focused is why only 5 holes at a sitting.

[Tchail]

I made myself a mini drill from a 12v motor & 600RPM gearbox combo, and miniature chuck, both from ebay for a total of less than 5 quid that I have been using with 0.5mm drills on my Zvezda SD and haven't broken a drill yet. It's fast enough to drill a hole in a couple of seconds, but not fast enough to melt the plastic. Being so small and light it's much easier to hold steady than my Dremel too.



I think any laser solution would be extremely difficult- you'd be melting a hole many times deeper than its diameter which is going to leave a mess. A BR laser only just has the power to burn dark materials, white styrene would reflect most of that energy and you would almost certainly end up causing yourself eye damage at some point along the way. No model is worth that.

This looks like a great solution!

Thanks!

-T

[wowyz]

I got a wave pen style router, small, light and smooth speed dial.
This one: https://hlj.com/product/WAVHT-190

But prefer a pinvise as I go down to 0.1mm bits (look at it wrong and it breaks).

Great advise above. go slowly, few holes at a time.

[Tchail]

Never mind!

I figured out the answers to my questions!

Thanks anyway!

-T

[E-Dub]

If you're friendly with your dentist he (or she) would probably be willing to give you old dental bits. Even when they're no longer good for teeth they're fine for styrene and resin. Been using them for years and have only broken two.

[Tchail]

If you're friendly with your dentist he (or she) would probably be willing to give you old dental bits. Even when they're no longer good for teeth they're fine for styrene and resin. Been using them for years and have only broken two.

I found these on Amazon.com:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0 ... UTF8&psc=1

I think a big part of the problem of using a hand/manual/spring loaded pin vise is the amount of pressure you end up putting on the drill bit.

I like Ant's suggestion, and I've ordered the parts off of Ye 'Ol Bay of Evil. I think the bits will last longer if they're able to "nibble" at the plastic.

[Zubie]

I remember using a heated needle when making holes for rigging in braced airplanes (typically wwi type stuff). Of course this isn't like doing the huge number of holes for lighting a Star Destroyer or some such vehicle, it does involve nothing more complicated than a candle, a pin, and a pair of pliers.

Haven't done it in a while, but I recently picked up a Glencoe J2F so I'll probably be revisiting it soon.

[naoto]

I guess utilizing the technology used by the C.M.D.F. is out of the question?

[Tchail]

I made myself a mini drill from a 12v motor & 600RPM gearbox combo, and miniature chuck, both from ebay for a total of less than 5 quid that I have been using with 0.5mm drills on my Zvezda SD and haven't broken a drill yet. It's fast enough to drill a hole in a couple of seconds, but not fast enough to melt the plastic. Being so small and light it's much easier to hold steady than my Dremel too.



I think any laser solution would be extremely difficult- you'd be melting a hole many times deeper than its diameter which is going to leave a mess. A BR laser only just has the power to burn dark materials, white styrene would reflect most of that energy and you would almost certainly end up causing yourself eye damage at some point along the way. No model is worth that.

I bought a 600 rpm gearbox combo, and a miniature chuck.

But I’m having trouble mating the two in such a way that I don’t get any “wobble” on the tip of the drill bit.

Part of the problem is that the gearbox shaft has a diameter of 3 mm (and is a “D” shape), and the inner diameter of the miniature chuck is 3.5 mm.

I’ve tried wrapping a small length of Scotch tape on the gearbox shaft, and that does tamp down the wobble.

But since I plan on using 0.25 mm drill bits, I’d like to eliminate the wobble, if possible.

Does anyone have a suggestion?

[Zubie]

I bought a 600 rpm gearbox combo, and a miniature chuck.
But I’m having trouble mating the two in such a way that I don’t get any “wobble” on the tip of the drill bit.

Part of the problem is that the gearbox shaft has a diameter of 3 mm (and is a “D” shape), and the inner diameter of the miniature chuck is 3.5 mm.
I’ve tried wrapping a small length of Scotch tape on the gearbox shaft, and that does tamp down the wobble. But since I plan on using 0.25 mm drill bits, I’d like to eliminate the wobble, if possible.

Does anyone have a suggestion?

I haven't used this, but a thought occurs to me that might work better than scotch tape. Electronic supply houses sell heat shrink tube insulators. These are plastic insulators that you can fit around a wire, and then when heat is applied it shrinks down snugly around the wire. These are typically used to insulate and secure wire splices. Needless to say they do add to the diameter of the original, between a mm to 1/2mm depending on the sleeve gauge. Since they shrink around the wire, there is normally no substantial distortion around the wire. My only concern would be that being plastic the insulation may not stand up to the torque applied by the chuck, but it can't do much worse than tape. It would definitely be easier to use; just slip a slightly larger diameter over it, apply heat from match or soldering iron nearby, and done. If not wide enough, you could slip a next size and shrink over that. You can always strip it off later with an Xacto knife or wire stripper.

https://www.google.com/search?q=heat+sh ... 94&bih=638

[Tchail]

Thanks! I’ll take a look at what I have in the way of heat shrink tubing. It’s definitely worth a shot.

I should add that there are two hex screws on the chuck, positioned opposite from one another.

But trying to screw them in so that they’re equidistant from one another has been a challenge...

[Zubie]

I guess utilizing the technology used by the C.M.D.F. is out of the question?

If you have seen "Innerspace" you will know that the guy with that technology and the drill...
(SPOILER ALERT->)came to a bad end(<-/Spoiler Alert)

As a more constructive note, you may need to mark and count turns on those screws at that scale in order to get them even.

[Tchail]

I guess utilizing the technology used by the C.M.D.F. is out of the question?

If you have seen "Innerspace" you will know that the guy with that technology and the drill...
(SPOILER ALERT->)came to a bad end(<-/Spoiler Alert)

As a more constructive note, you may need to mark and count turns on those screws at that scale in order to get them even.

Innerspace is still a fun movie!

As for the screws, yeah - I’m afraid that you’re right...

[Tesral]

I do have a really crazy idea about using a laser diode from a DVD or Blu Ray burner to burn tiny holes. I've seen a bunch of videos of people using laser diodes to light matches, engrave wood, and pop balloons, but I wonder if anyone has ever tried it with drilling holes in polystyrene or resin...

DON'T! Both substances release toxic gases when burned. What you are describing is a laser cutter and the materials document clearly stats to avoid these materials.

[ENT56]

I know this thread is a little stale but I tried this using a miniature chuck and motor with reduction gears from amazon and it worked out incredibly well for drilling out all of the windows on my Voyager project. Awesome suggestion - I wouldn't have thought of it if not for this post. Many thanks!

For those who are in Canada and are interested in what I used -
12V DC 12V Electric Gear Motor, High Torque Speed Reduction Motor for Model DIY Engine(12V 100RPM) - $8.39
Bestgle 21pcs 0.5-3mm Mini Twist Drill Tool Chuck Set Small Electric Drill Bit Collet Drill Adapter for 3.17mm Motor Shaft, Set of 3 - $10.96

I did end up having to drill out the hole in one of the chucks to get it to fit (the chuck accepts 3.17mm whereas the motor's output shaft is ~3.96mm) but it worked. I also added a small switch, which made all the difference in placing the bit safely while starting/stopping the motor.



I used some drills that I ended up getting with a pin vise kit that I had ordered previously. I wasn't sure about how 100RPM would work but it ended up being pretty much perfect for styrene.

I ended up being able to put two holes in each and every window on my Voyager build in about 90 min. Now, off to squaring off those windows!




Cheers,
Ian

I made myself a mini drill from a 12v motor & 600RPM gearbox combo, and miniature chuck, both from ebay for a total of less than 5 quid that I have been using with 0.5mm drills on my Zvezda SD and haven't broken a drill yet. It's fast enough to drill a hole in a couple of seconds, but not fast enough to melt the plastic. Being so small and light it's much easier to hold steady than my Dremel too.



I think any laser solution would be extremely difficult- you'd be melting a hole many times deeper than its diameter which is going to leave a mess. A BR laser only just has the power to burn dark materials, white styrene would reflect most of that energy and you would almost certainly end up causing yourself eye damage at some point along the way. No model is worth that.

[Ant]

Great to see another Frankendrill!!
And I really like the finger trigger upgrade!

I've been meaning to 3D print a small enclosure for mine, but I've not used it in ages so the need has fallen down the list of priorities...

[Mr. E Man]

For drilling tiny holes for small diameter fibers, I use the Tamiya Electric Handy Drill. It's a model kit that you assemble. The result is a slow-speed drill that is just right for the job. I had to order a chuck and a special set of collets for small bits from Amazon.

A word of advice: don't put a lot of pressure on the bit when it is drilling or it will catch in the plastic and break. I dip the bit into a drop of 3-In-One PTFE lubricant to aid in reducing friction and therefore save and extend the life of the drill bit. Repeat the process more than once for each hole if needed to keep the bit lubricated. The lubricant can be washed off the parts after you finish drilling.

Here are the links for the items I described:

Tamiya Electric Handy Drill
https://smile.amazon.com/74041-Tamiya-E ... 08SY&psc=1

Chuck
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

Proxxon Collets
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

PTFE Lubricant
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1

Just go slow and be patient and it will work out great.

Good luck!


E

[jpolacchi]

I'll be doing some of that myself soon enough.Just drill'em out and finish the hole off with a square broaching tool from Micro Mark.That's mu plan.