cheap plastics or balaswood

[sunburn800]

I need to ask a few things here I am building a big ship yard as seen on BSG Razor but I have a small budget I can't find plastic or balsawood anywhere in large sheets maybe 1/2 to 1/4 thick by 20 by 20 or even 40 by 40 can anyone help me?

[DaveVan]

1/2 inch thick plastic sheets???? Doubt you will find styrene like that. I know you can get acrylic sheets.....but cheap???? nope. If you need 1/2" for large builds I'd look at ultra grade cabinet plywood......but again a 4x8 or 5 x 10 sheet starts at $100+ There is no cheap when you go that big.

[naoto]

Since you mention you're on a budget, have you considered papercraft?

You can build relatively large objects using such techniques:
http://www.coolthings.com/a-life-size-p ... -race-car/

perhaps you use combination of posterboard and foamboard that you can get from the dollar store?

"but papercraft models are seriously lacking in detail" you say?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wt99b5ccwqk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4IgI9p23Wo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ArerbR9QcY

https://www.youtube.com/user/lucaiaconistewart
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54D0_rr-7Dk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LckG_P135Q

[DaveVan]

Poster, matt and foamcore are all good suggestions.\I do paper models too.....

[Zubie]

If you're going big paper/card stock/foam core is probably the more affordable route. For the most part you can work with it similarly to plastic card; use lacquer to stiffen for light sanding , wood filler for gaps and edges, takes to light rattle cans, although other painting requires care due to water absorption. If you coupled this with software and a good printer you can implement some amazing detail (the software can be cheap or free).

https://www.behance.net/gallery/4331957 ... CARD-MODEL, student architectural model

http://www.ipmscanada.com/ipms/Paperand ... G_1249.jpg , commercial kit 1/200 scale about 4 feet long

https://i.imgur.com/GDkmeB6.jpg, studio scale nostromo

http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=48767 bsg total scratch cardboard and household greeblies

[Kylwell]

Check for your local plastics supplier, you should be able to get 4x8 foot sheets. Or order them online. Or hit the hardware store and see what they carry. You can get some pretty fine plywood.

[naoto]

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/pla ... ze_plastic

with above link, I looked up pricing for a clear acrylic sheet 1/2" x 20" x 20" -- price came out to around $65 (if I'm not mistaken, this doesn't include shipping). Not sure if this is within your budget ("small budget" is sort of vague -- what amount of money are we talking about? a few thousand? a few hundred? under a hundred? ).

[gsb5w]

If your project doesn't have to be very rigid then foamboard works great for making structure.

[DaveVan]

If your project doesn't have to be very rigid then foamboard works great for making structure.

Engineered right foamcore can be very rigid. Some triangulation, good glue and bracing I've made some sturdy structures.

[Zubie]

1/2" thick plastic seems unreasonable unless you are trying to make the skin itself structurally stiff enough to hold up the model's weight. I'm unclear as to the actual scale (20, 40 - inches, feet?). Just from seeing other people's work, it seems a more logical approach is to start off with an internal load bearing skeleton, then skin it with much thinner and as such cheaper material. Even with thinner material, a set of bulkheads and ribs to take the actual stress (like old time balsa+tissue airplanes) could get you a finished model that will hold its weight without relying on such thick skins.

I mention this because thinner plastic, like the ones sold as "for sale" signs and the like, or thinner storm window plexiglass (or even 2'x4'x1/8" styrene if you can find it) is not that bad.

I still recommend card for this size. I've seen threads of large card ship builds that make use of balsa+paper sandwiches for their internal bulkheads and make fairly nice looking hulls 2 to 3 feet in length skinned in just cardstock (like greeting card paper). It just requires careful handling so as not to poke them in once built.

[wowyz]

Gong to add my Mustard.

1.) Sandwich foam board between 2 thin layers of plastic sheeting/balsa pieces, you can still add ribs by dividing the foam board.

Might not be the cheapest, but I think it is a very flexible solution. Of course depends on your budget, etc.

[Andrew Gorman]

There is also styrene faced foam core-
https://www.foamboardsource.com/medium- ... board.html

[sunburn800]

Sorry guys I just had a death in the family so my thinking is not the best. thanks for all your help I just going to try plastic around 1/8 I was going to cut the thicker plastic so I would have different levels and also cut small to large cut outs for the ships docks,supplies and an area for new ship building.

[EVApodman]

I once had to cut a 1/4" thick of styrene for a model I was making and it was a beyotch. I don't know the size of what you are trying to make but I agree with the posts that first you make an armature that will support the weight of the model and then attach smaller and thinner sheets of plastic along with greeblies to get the look you want rather than trying to build a self supporting structure out of plastic like a regular model.

[Wug]

If you have any Ma & Pa hardware stores left, check to see if they sell scraps of cut window plastic. Years ago I picked up a lot of the stuff for cheap. It's about 1/8 inch thick. I think it's made from PETE so you'll probably need to use epoxy.

[Scotaidh]

Sorry guys I just had a death in the family so my thinking is not the best. thanks for all your help I just going to try plastic around 1/8 I was going to cut the thicker plastic so I would have different levels and also cut small to large cut outs for the ships docks,supplies and an area for new ship building.

The last time I set out to build a hanger, I started with plastic in-boxes - you know, as found on office desks. Glue-able, stack-able, inexpensive, interesting holes in the back and sides, available at many locations. I stole the idea from someone here who'd used that method to build a complete rebel alliance underground hanger complex ... I was green with envy for days after seeing his work. I know - bit shallow, me.
I tend to use plastic signs from Wallyworld and hardware stores for skinning; I also have "mined" the local recycle centre for plastic computer stuff - casings, tilt-swivels (from the old, heavy CRT monitors) - the plastic glues up a treat with regular model cement.

I tend to 'build up' not 'machine down', so to speak. Less material costs, easier to repair goofs or change the design on the fly.

Hope that's helpful ...